I dunno. On my CS130 I was surprised to find that you could just remove the screws and move the front end case with the mounting lug around to any position your heart desired. It would come right off. All the electrical connections were in the case half at the rear end.
Stator appeared to be secured to the front case half on this Marelli knockoff; which would necessitate disconnecting the stator leads- I tried.
You should measure the depth between the Altās mounting holes and the face of the pulley on your original Alt so you can determine where the pulley on the C130 should sit.
If the pulley needs to go all the way in I would tend to grind the pulley rather than the Alt case.
You can mount the pulley on a drill and do it with a file, doesnāt have to be super precise, and some paint for rustproofing.
Or, maybe a spacer and mount the pulley the other way around?
Iām not installing cs130, Iām installing same Land Rover alt as you.
Or find out where to get the pulley that came with yours?! 
Issue with reversing the pulley is there isnāt enough unthreaded shaft for the pulley to locate radially. I have .200ā spacers, but that is about all of the shaft that isnāt threaded. Also, that results in about 1/8ā belt misalignment.
Yeah, I think the easiest method will be to machine the ridge and the back of the pulley. Iāve already called around, alternator places donāt rebuilt anymore, and I even called a local machine shop who says they only have a lathe for polishing crankshafts! May be hard to find someone with a good olā lathe.
By the way, what kind of gap should I allow between pulley and alternator housing? I was thinking 1/16"? That hopefully wonāt take off too much from the pulley.
Any amount is fine as long as it doesnāt rub. There is no endplay in an alternator.
Try the local vocational school, easy project. If the have summer classes.
i was thinking more about allowing air circulation behind it. If it doesnāt matter, then Iāll go with something like 1/32".
Good idea! But first I will ask my neighbor who has every tool. He may actually have a lathe or know of a friend who has one. Always good having a friend in their 70s! 
Time to add a toy ? A small Asian lathe. Machine tool recyclers.
Or at an auto machine shop. Take off the small amount of metal needed on the surface grinder .
Were it mine, I would use my hand grinder or even a flat file.
1 Like
Perhaps. My thinking, though, would be to try to avoid modifying parts, because if I ever have to replace them, Iāll have to modify them again. So Iād be looking for a simple spacer ā and if I couldnāt find one, Iād spend my machining budget making one.
problem with the spacer approach, it will probably put the pulley too far out which means adaptation of bracket to move alternator back (if possible) so the belt aligns.
If I had to replace the alternator, Iād simply unbolt modified pulley and transfer to new alternator.
1 Like
So i put one of those digital volt readers in cigar lighter. While idling, i get 13.8V and while driving 14.1V. But the lightning bolt warning light (ignition) is always onā¦very dim at idle, and actually gets brighter with higher rpms. But volts never go above 14.1V.
What could this be? I am still going to replace alternator when i get a day (on my restoration list), but should i check anything else?
Many archive posts claim this means over charging, bad regulator or diode. But wouldnāt i see more than 14.1V?
Youāre seeing 14.1V with the original Lucas alt? Iām surprised. Never saw more than 13.6V out of mine regardless of engine RPM. Of course, perhaps thatās because thereās something wrong with your regulator!
I dunno why your lightning bolt would be lit. Perhaps one phase has failed, and the alt is having to try really hard to put out 14.1V from only two phases. Have you tried checking the alt voltage with the VOM set on AC? I understand that can indicate a bad phase, the AC reading goes way up.
Yeah, 14.1V does seem a bit high for original Lucas with 54000 miles. Could it be putting out good volts but low amps? What should happen if i turn on headlights?
I guess Iāll just go ahead and replace alternator and see what happens.
That pulley situation is odd. Why the %$^ would any company design an alt on which the pulley has to fit within a recess like that? Why not just have the step in the shaft out front so any pulley will fit?
I presume nobody offers a V-belt pulley designed to fit a Marelli alt?
Could not find any for Marelli. Although it must exist, because Aristides came with one.
But I may have found a pulley to fit Landrover alternator. Itās about 3" diameter too. It is actually for Ford 3G Series alternators.
Iāll make this work. This oneās stem actually fits inside the housing hole, but the bushing (or whatever it is, that turns with shaft) for the shaft is a bit smaller, so Iāll need to match that so the stem mates up to only what is supposed to turn. Just 1-2mm off the stem circumference, and maybe a bit off the back of stem if pulley is out too far. No need to machine pulley face because the stem is so deep.
242104
So I could be seeing 14.1V because I almost never run the blower/electric aux fan, as I have no A/C, and donāt really drive at night, so no headlights. Only draw I have is the radio.
So I tested today driving, at idle in Drive, I get about 13.6-13.8V. As soon as I turn on the headlights, it instantly goes down to about 12.4-12.6V. So I think I definitely have a faulty alternator on my hands.
Good News! Third time is the charm? The third pulley I ordered fits the Land Rover alternator perfectly. No machining needed at all! And slightly bigger than Lucas Oem (70mm)
Also looked up 96 Land Rover Defender, pulley torque = 70ftlbs.
2481103 - For Hitachi Alternators (what!?)
3 Likes
Thatās I think the Lucas standard performanceā¦ 75A isnāt it?
And if you turn on the defroster and blower fans at max it would go even lower.
Not to mention that if you also happen to have electric cooling fans it would go under 12V.
