The hinges open and close fine and don’t have a lot of play in them but like we’ve found out the play is in the hinge box and not the shouldered bolt / arm bore as intended. Now that the RH inner sill is cut out and the vent box removed I can see that now is the time to repair the hinges properly, a setback but not too bad. I haven’t found as much in the archives as you are indicating, does anybody supply a repair kit ? It looks like an oversized pivot bolt and a bronze bushing inside of the arm would do the ticket…
As far as trading it for a 140 or 150 I’m too far along in the process with this one to recoup my investment , besides an XK 120 roadster will make me look thinner.
Here is what I did 30 years ago. I made steel bushings and welded them to the hinge boxes. The pin is an ordinary stainless steel bolt same size as the hole in the hinge arm and the bushings, and long enough so there are no threads for the arm to rub against.
As I recall it was a 5/16" bolt. You could even get 5/16" flange nuts, weld them on, then drill out the threads.
Others have done some variations on this theme.
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Hello Nick
Would you be able to post the details of your non surgical method?
I have been dreading cutting mine open…
Thanks
Garry
Sure, with two caveats. Mine is an OTS so it may have less body structure above the top hinge box to get in the way of removal and, second, these cars are assembled by hand so the placement of the one piece that can get in the way may differ from car to car, in which case some very minor surgery may be required. The biggest pain in the butt is getting your hands into small spaces to remove the eight nuts and eight bolts holding each hinge block.
You do the top first to facilitate access to the bottom hinge block. Remove the eight nuts/bolts and slide the block upward.
This is a pic of the inner right A-post:
There needs to be sufficient distance between the top of that stiffener to the bottom of the skuttle above to clear the hinge block. If not, trimming a half inch or so off the top of the stiffener will do the trick.
Once the top hinge is out of the way you need to contort yourself to remove the eight nuts and bolts securing the bottom block. Slide upward.
Patience.
Bandaids for your knuckles.
Curse liberally.
Success.
Thanks,
This is only research - I’m a full Healey away from starting on the XK. I’ll try to remember to let you know how I get on.
Garry
I’m 6’2" 180#'s and can barely fit. If it weren’t for the telescoping wheel I probably would not fit at all. When I do get in, It’s actually dangerous. My feet get tangled in the pedals. I drove the car enough to work the bugs out. If I were to keep the car, something would have to be done with the seats and pedals because it is not enjoyable as it is. Removing the top does gain a mm or 2.
Um…how old are ya?
Some folks have mentioned using a smaller 14" steering wheel on the 120 to gain so precious space, but I have to wonder about the steering effort.
The original wheel was considered the right size for the non-power steering installed. It’s effort was I am told pretty high during maneuvers like parking. That begs the question about the smaller wheels becoming way too much effort in normal slow speed use. How did you small-wheel advocates overcome the inherent problems introduced?
Did you used some kind of power steering setup - fluid or electric? Did you use a rack and pinion? I’m curious, very curious as I’m faced with the same problems and old age and concomitant health problems become more of a concern.
Taz,
I’ve replaced my standard 17" steering wheel for a (contemporary) wood-rimmed version with a 16" diameter. I must confess that parking is on the edge what is still feasible for a normal person. Once your driving it’s perfect (even better than 17") and much more space for the knees of course. So I agree with you that 14" would be absolutely too small to drive without the assistance of some form of power steering.
Bob K.
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Hi Bob, I had a re-look through all the posts to see if I got the whole 14" wheel thing wrong. Apparently, I did as I could only find one place where E-lated used a 15" wheel, though he doesn’t mention how it works for him or IF he used any power assist.
So, I stand corrected about the 14" wheel, but really am curious about the 15" one. Does anyone know anything about using power assisted steering on these cars other than the pricy electric unit sold in England? What about the Generator/power steering unit from a contemporary Brit sedan? Of course you’d need the powered Burman (?) unit at the other end of the “smaller” steering wheel and some hoses.
There are a number of small cars, the Prius being one, that have self-contained, in-line electric assist units, which can be had reasonably at a breaker’s.
Just one of many…
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Thanks Wiggy. I guessed so, but didn’t really know of any that fit the bill.
Hi Brian:
Like Bob and others I also installed a smaller diameter, four spoke, wood rim wheel from the contemporary British source. Prior to doing so I expressed similar concerns to yours on this Forum regarding the physical effort that might ensue downsizing from the 17" original wheel, but was assured that it would not be a problem. It has not been, in fact the benefit gained in extra room and, for me anyway, better appearance and feel made it a positive experience. I would add that since the installation a couple of years ago I have never felt the need for any power assist devices–and I sailed past my three score and ten some time back!
Chris.
Still unsure as to the mention of politics, in the title…
A dichotomy of being, Paul, and a rather clever admonition too. Jags only in this thread.
Ah…OK. Twerent obvious, but totally get it.
The steering wheel size is a matter of serious discussion.
I’m going to post a separate thread about it, rather than divert from this one.
Wiggles – thanks for the electric steering module idea.
Bob_K - that’s worrisome about a 16" wheel being difficult to park. Wife would therefore have MUCH difficulty.
CP1201 – what size wheel do you have?
When I went to a 15” wheel on Tweety, there was a obvious increase in exertion to steer it at low speed.
I didnt find it too bad, plus he was shod with 205-60s, which accounted for some increased effort. On the skinny shoes of a 120, I cant see it being too terrible.
I didn’t have a choice but to go with a 15" wheel since I already had a period “Les Leston” ( whoever that is ) wood rimmed wheel and bought a MotoLita hub to fit the trafficator. I’ve not driven the car but steered it around the shop , it will be fine . A little more effort and you have to turn the wheel a bit further than you need with rack and pinion.
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And there are drop in kits for the XK. Costs more, but less guesswork.
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