Yeah! I’ll add my name to that claim too and it includes every car I have ever owned.
Me too, I have the solid rotors with no ring and no squeal.
Same here. I only hear a squeal when I push hard on the “Go” pedal, not the “Stop” pedal.
Solid rotors are more prone to squeal; when resurfacing usually there is a need to put a silencer band on them to prevent ringing, which causes the cutter to chatter.
I’m not lying when I stated that brake squeal was one of the most common new car complaints.
Also, when a brake system is designed for a new car platform, the specs are then put out for bid- the vendor may add something like the silencer based on experience in other applications that may not apply. I am not aware of any manufacturer that makes there own brake parts.
What pads you use make a HUGE difference to squeal. That’s why I’ve slowly changed ALL my cars from semi-metallic pads to ceramic. These days they are only about 2X as expensive. We’re talking $50 instead of $25.
Ceramic: No squeal, cleaner brake dust, brakes don’t fade at high speed, pads last a LONG time (i’ve got 2x the miles)
Semi-Metallic: Squeal, messy brake dust, brakes fade at high speed, pads don’t last that long.
About the ONLY con on ceramic, the rotors wear down faster. But I replace rotors with pads on all my cars. Good quality rotors these days are not that expensive ($50 each). The inboard rotors would be an issue though, but since you would get 2X the miles with ceramic pads, you’d have to drop the rear at the same time interval had you used semi-metallic twice within that time interval.
With the 1987 XJS Lister car on jack stands, I was able to lower the entire cage with everything intact, including the radius arms, and with the wheels attached. I simply disconnected the rear brake cable, removed the bolts from the front radius arms, put a steel plate on jacks lifting arm and positioned it under the differential for balance. Disconnected the rear exhaust pipes, then jacked it up a little to relieve some pressure from the four hangers before unfastening them. I simply lowered the cage to the ground with the wheels and tires attached. Being able to role the cage out from under the car on it’s own wheels was a beautiful thing. I started late in the afternoon on Wednesday around 15:30 and was putting the tools away around 17:00, I was surprised at how little time the whole procedure took with working on my back.
At a glance, though, the rear rotors didn’t look to be in good shape. With all the talk about vented rotors, where does one find vented rotors to fit back there? Who makes them and what model numbers are we talking about?
Did I hear right, that a set of front rotors from the XJS could be made to fit in the rear?
Thanks, I’ll be doing this one day, and you give me hope 
You didn’t mention disconnecting driveshaft. What was involved?
Argh, I forgot about that. I disconnected the driveshaft a long time ago so that wasn’t part of the equation. Also, the rear hand brake mechanism inside of the car was disconnected prior as well. Rather than fiddling around with the rear brake hose, I simply snipped it with a cutter. The mid exhaust pipes were removed prior as well. The rear exhaust pipe hanger is disconnected via two nuts located below the rear taillights inside the boot. The U shaped section of exhaust pipe running through the cage can dangle in place and can be removed later when on the ground.
Remember, the big deal here is having both wheels attached
Robert, I don’t doubt that you are right. I remember the big rubber bands used when cleaning up brake drums. I use ceramic pads on my car, but I’m sure the real reason for quietness is being a member of Doug’s “Clean-living Club”."
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Wow 
I had no idea 
Thanks a bunch Kirbert
Ebay has plenty of them for sale … 
So you’re saying the car was not in running condition when you did this (i.e. due to all the previous “disconnects”)? 
I wish on the old website they would attribute who the author is of those articles, and what year Jag they have (in the pics) … 
Yes, its a totaled Lister that I will be grafting into a clone. You can see it here
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Related question - I have seen “drilled” rotors available for the XJS as well. Curious what everyone’s thoughts are on using “ventilated” as well as drilled (i.e. holes drilled at various points through the rotor) rotors? Always wondered if the additional cooling obtained by use of the holes is worth the (weakening?) of the rotor’s structural integrity created by same … Is there really much additional cooling benefits from those holes? And, is there really no weakening?
Can’t do both. Drilling holes through a ventilated rotor screws up the ventilation scheme. Those who are looking to waste equivalent money go with “slotted” rotors, shallow grooves cut across the friction surface without breaking into the venting channels in the center.
Other than making the rotor slightly lighter, there is no benefit to drilling or slotting. They are features intended to separate the car owner from some of his hard-earned money. And yes, they can cause cracking.
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I agree. Not only that they wear the pads much faster and then the pads start wearing the pads. My son did that with his Chevy PU. It really surprised me how fast it all happened.
I meant to say “then the pads start wearing the rotors”. Both then had to be replaced. The rotors which are extra expensive had to be replaced with the pads. All within a year.
Nice idea there with the rear calipers. I hadn’t thought of changing the piston size. (You I assume used the std off the shelf new SS replacment front pistons?)
How did the bore size change affect seal & seal components? I assume a machine shop did this… so 4X new bore sizes + 4X re-cutting a seal ridge inside?
For the rest of the thread:
I’ve been working on some 3D models of avail discs + Kirby’s “adapter” replacements.
Most suppliers 10.5 or 10&3/8 (264mm) discs seem to be possible. The problem is that they don’t all list the “flange” thickness for the mounting ears so that the backside of the disc can be held even w/ the backside of the OEM disc thus providing a dimension adjustment for both Kirby’s adapter, and caliper spacers (whatever small amount that is.)
Kirby’s Adapter:
Diff & OE Discs
Adapter On Diff:
AP CP4136-208 Semi - Aligned. Note adapter mods needed.
Obvious mis-alignment Too far out: Thicker disc than Wilwood, but likely thicker mounting flange/ears too.
AP Disc looks like it needs an adapter w/ backspacing vs the as of yet unmodeled Wilwoods:
Still working on Wilwood floating friction models. Looking like pre-slotted & pre-drilled WW 160-9249 & 9250 are direct but more expensive subs for 160-3450.
~Paul K.