I did do the output shaft seals because they were cheap and clearly weeping a touch… plus I already bought the inch pounds torque wrench otherwise I’d have said screw it this time they aren’t leaking that bad. The bearings are another couple hundred bucks in a job that is only budgeted $150 in the first place, so that was a no. Today’s goal was only to get the car to pass inspection as cheaply as possible. The main problem was a stuck caliper or something causing it to wear down only one pad. Rotors were lightly scored but for $15 each they get tossed. Rebuilt caliper were about $50 each. Everything is Centric brand from Rockauto.
The only problem was one of the handbrake caliper pads was missing so now I have to wait for them to arrive. Wasn’t planning in doing them.
As for vented rotors… not happening. Too much time and money this time around. When this is done I have an XJ12 (X305) that needs a new front end, an XJ12 (Series III) that needs a fuel tank, an MG 1100 that needs new subframe mounts, a 72 MGB that is suddenly pinging like mad, a 53 Arnolt MG that needs throttle shafts in the carbs, a 92 XJS that simply wont start, and that’s just to clear the backlog before starting bodywork on a 59 Magnette in the spring. I really let the project accumulate while working in the house instead and now I regret it.
Thanks for taking the speed sensor location picture - if that is the rear of the differential unit, where is the fill plug located - thanks, Tex 1/27/2020 1315hrs EST USA
After figuring out how to enlarge the picture, I see the fill plug is located behind the speed sensor neck - again, John thanks for taking time to take picture - will try now to locate this on my 1991 V12 Classic Coupe - Tex 1/27/2020 1434hrs EST USA
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
28
Inner pad not wearing? That’s caused by a leaking output shaft seal.
Thanks - this makes it clearer - you state this pic is on your 1989 - am I correct then that this should be the same location on the 1991 - Tex 1/27/2020 1747hrs EST USA
The answer ot the original question… is to drop the rear subframe, then replace it with a later model with outboard discs. Feel free to upgrade the discs and calipers to XKR ventelated versions, and replace the diff bearings that have cooked over the years by having those hot discs sat next to them for all their working life. Pad changes then take minutes rather than hours, and the handbrake shoes can be replaced and adjusted without having to employ someone with the hands of a small child.
Thanks again John6 and Bob for explanation pics of speed sensor location - out of curiousity, and for future info, what XJS year model started using the IRS differential with the outboard brake setup - thanks, Tex 1/27/2020 2022hrs EST USA
The change over was VIN188105, sometime in 1993. I got my rearend from a 1994 4.0. The doner axle had sat around outside and needed a full rebuild. I had to keep my diff and cage, and swapped the rest. Upgrading the discs and calipers to XKR spec.
Another way to do it is to get the bits from an XJ40. It’s a lot more work as you need spacers where the discs used to be, use some sleeves for the metric parts of the set up, and fabricate a handbrake cable.
Timeisrelative
(Jason Miller 1993 XJS 4.0 convertible, 1997 XK8 coupe )
37
With mine number 188097, I still have the inner brakes. I make the joke that mine was made on a Friday and they changed it on Monday lol . At least it’s a conversation piece! Lol
That is annoying, but maybe you dodged a bullet there. When 188105 trundled down the line to the rear axle guys on that Monday morning, they were all scratching their heads as to why someone had messed with the parts bin over the weekend. How well screwed together was that first attempt?
1 Like
Timeisrelative
(Jason Miller 1993 XJS 4.0 convertible, 1997 XK8 coupe )
39
Good point! Lol ! They had PLENTY of experience installing mine lol. Never thought of it that way!
I just finished 1988 XJSC calipers, discs, brake pads, hand brake pads with the subframe off. There is enough variance in part dimensions to require centering the disc between the caliper by shimming. The same dimension shims for centering the disc also have to be installed on the axle side to have correct camber at the wheels-this takes some measuring & fiddling to get it right. My skills are such that having the subframe off was essential.
. At least it’s a conversation piece! Lol 