I have the factory air setup with the row of 5 AC louvers on the dash. I found that replacement louvers are now available. It appears that the louvers have little nibs on the ends that fit in recesses at each end. Is there a recommendation for how to fit the new ones without breaking them? I thought about warming them in hot water to soften them just enough to flex them to go in.
I think your main issue will be removing the existing vents without breaking the small vertical plastic sections that separate each vent. They are extremely brittle.
Getting the old ones out is no problem, just cut them with a dremel cut off disc. Getting the new ones in without unit removal is a challenge. In a prior post I mentioned a spring at one end, not a good idea.
The other thought is to cut off nub at one end and drill a hole of same size. Find a pin of some sort and after new louver is in place glue pin into position at opposite end.
The amount of heat required to soften the plastic enough will destroy the part.
Glenn
I’ve had to rebuild the AC unit on the 2+2 I used to own and more recently on the FHC I now own. The louvers are held in position by small aluminum brackets screwed into position. Small pieces of a felt like material are between the bracket and stem of the louver to provide enough resistance to keep the louver positioned when moved by the driver or passenger.
I’d suggest the original poster bite the bullet and remove the AC unit from the car. Disassemble the front of the unit, repair any cracks with fiberglass or epoxy like JB weld, paint the assembly as required, replace the louvers, reassemble the unit and reinstall it in the car. It’s a bit more work but it’s the only way I can see to do the job right.
Valerie;
As John Walker mentioned do it right and enjoy the job well done. I have some photos that may help you. Take the evaporator out of the car and remove the front face, on the back you will find some small pieces of aluminum that hold the louvers in place, remove them and replace the damaged louvers with new ones and replace the screws and the front cover, job done, probably. If there is any damage to the evaporator now is the time to fix it.
Hope the photos help.
This shows the back of my evaporator front with a damaged louver in place, I removed the small phillips screws and replaced the louvers.
Another look.
This shows one of the clips above the Evaporator front, small to say the least.
Regards, Joel.
If you have patience and some helping hands, you can remove the fascia without taking the entire unit out of the car. The lower tray, complete with evaporator can remain connected. That way, you don’t have to recharge it. I wish someone could come up with a source for replacement facias.
Everyone’s response is correct to do the job “right” Knowing the challenges and travails of installing an original factory set-up, I did the following with the hope of not having to remove the unit. It worked for me, but be patient and cautious:
-I used a hair dryer to warm up the fascia around the vent I had to replace enough that there was sufficient give to allow me to wiggle the old vent out without damaging the fascia.
-More heat on the new vent and fascia and was able to wiggle the vent into place without breaking the pins on each end or cracking the fascia.
-I replaced 3 vents this way.
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Hi and thank you for the spectacular and detailed photos. I can easily see the little brackets with the screws. Now, can you give me some hints from the wise as how to remove that evaporator unit? I am fairly competent with mechanical repairs, I put in a new brake booster on this car, as well as disassembling the interior and putting in the new one, replaced a water pump, and lever arm shocks on my Midget, rebuilt the brakes on my MGA, so am not afraid of dirt and am limber enough to fold in two for tight places. I do have a Bentley service manual which I can consult as well, though sometimes my best info comes from other sources such as you.
Another forum contributor mentioned “felt pieces” at the ends of the louvers, to keep them positioned… did you see any evidence of that? Again, thank you so much!!
Valerie:
The A/C unit is removed after first evacuating the freon (R-12, etc.) Then disconnect the wires to the unit, mine were in the engine compartment, then disconnect the hoses leading to the evaporator, they are on the back left of the unit. There is a attach point on the right side of the unit that fastens to the footwell outside wall with a screw, undo that. Now you should be able to slide the evaporator towards the front of the car (to the rear of the unit). Should be about one inch, and then it will drop down into your hands.
If you are a JCNA member you can get a A/C supplement from them that gives you more info then you need but does explain how to service the stuff. Well worth the money.
I did reenforce the edges of my evaporator case with fiberglass and 20 ga steel strips as the edges were crumbling away. It seemed to work out well. Good Luck.
Regards, Joel.
Valerie;
I should have mentioned you will need to remove the radio counsel before the A/C unit.
Joel.
Hi Joel. OK! So I should mention that I have never used the AC in the old boy (and I got him in 1989) , and don’t plan to. Is there a way to drop just that section that you had the photos of? Yes, I figured I’d have to take the radio console out, not too bad in my car. Thank you SO much!
That front section with louvers is held on the evap unit with screws and adhesive top and bottom.
No way to get around without pulling out unit as whole.
As mentioned before this unit is very fragile and once removed opens a can or worms. It seems every time I touched mine more cracks developed. I can not even blame the previous owner for messing this up because I am the original owner.
Glenn
Actually, if you have some helping hands, you can lower the unit without evacuating, and just remove the fascia. You need to be extra careful about supporting it , but R12 is getting scarce.
Ok, so update on the Louver Replacement. I noticed that there were tiny little screws, two per louver bracket on the underside of the AC evaporator unit/underdash. I carefully loosened two to see if that would also loosen the louver bracket and it did! So that’s how I got it done. I also noted when doing a test fit, that the new louvers wanted to roll around and not stay in position. I had some black adhesive-back craft felt and cut quarter inch wide strips to lay along the bottom of the louver opening. Starting at the far left, loosened the two screws for the second bracket in, laid in the adhesive felt, inserted the new louver, retightened and moved to the right to the next bracket. Loosened those 2 screws, laid the felt, inserted the new louver, retightened and moved to the right, next bracket. So the touchy part came at the last two louvers. Kinda like fitting in the last piece of tongue N groove flooring. Loosened and removed the screws from the bracket (first to the left of the very right end, laid both felt pieces, pushed the bracket back to allow the louver to the left to connect and then the last louver’s left end to connect. With the last (farthest right) louver’s right end in the last bracket, I carefully pulled the two louvers with the bracket back into position. Using a fine needle punch to locate the screw hole in the exterior and in the bracket, I inserted and tightened the screw. With that holding, I used the needle punch to line up the back bracket hole and put that screw in. I did also have to move the radio console out of the way to access one screw. There is also a round ‘access panel’ at the far right end. I didn’t need to use it so I left it alone. The tiny screw in the center attaches to a thin plate that goes across the back of the hole and holds the round cover on. Thanks to all of you who wrote and for all your suggestions.
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I can only post one photo at a time, so here’s one of the finished job. I have other photos showing the 'in-process".
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Valerie
You outsmarted us all " know it alls" I give you credit, I forgot about those screws at bottom.
In my mind the screws could only be accessed from behind.
Glenn
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As I recall, there was a felt strip on the flat part of the pivot bracket which kept the vent from flopping around. You can see it in these photos:
Richard Liggitt
Michael,
I need to replace the facia on a working a/c. Do you think I can replace without total removal? Any suggestions or hints to get the new facia on?
It’s tough, but it can be done. It’s held in place with a bunch of small screws, so no trick there. But you’ll have to undo the L-bracket on the right side, then push back the entire evaporator and swing it down, without making a wreck of the refrigerant hoses. That’s how you would access the top edge. You REALLY don’t want to release refrigerant, given the current cost and scarcity of R12, not to mention taking care not to damage hoses and connectors. There’s also a coat of sealant between the fascia and case, which may be hardened. I’d suggest having someone help you, because it’s a lot of weight and clumsy mass to coordinate for one person.
But let’s back up a minute. I’ve been looking for a new fascia for thirty five years. Where did you find such a unicorn?
