Installing Fuel injection and electronic ignition Etype Series 2

I’ve used Megasquirt MS2 ECU before for batch injection but only the newer version MS3 supports full sequential injection. Since I want to install wasted spark ignition now before the summer , I must take the decision on which ECU version to buy soon. Based on what you said, I will probably go with the newer MS3, start with batch injection because it’s easier to tune then later upgrade to sequential since it obviously works for our engines. Maybe you have fuel maps for sequential you can share…
What worries me is that sequential should need bigger injectors than batch which could affect the idle.
What type of injectors do you use?
Or did you buy a kit with all pre configured?
And where did you buy the Mangoletsi direct head port injection manifold, because I can’t find any supplier.

Why would bigger injectors be needed?

Comparing with batch injection where fuel is sprayed before, during and after the valve has opened, using the accumulated fuel for next stroke…
sequential must spray all fuel during the short time the valve is opened, which demands bigger injectors, and bigger injectors can be hard to fine tune at idle since at the shortest opened time they still give to much fuel at low rpm.
Because of this, sometimes sequential tuning actually mimics batch injection by opening the injector before the valve is opening and keeps spraying after it has closed. That’s one reason why the mileage doesn’t differ that much as you can expect.
I’m not an expert but I think it’s some truth in those claims.
// Peter

Peter, I’ve never implemented a fully sequential project despite having done more than 10 megasquirt projects.

The little that I have picked up on sequential is that injection should occur long before the intake valve opens in order to give the fuel time to evaporate before being drawn into the cylinder. Thus negating the need for bigger injectors.

But, I’m out of my depth on sequential.

Well I’m defenitly not an expert either… and what you say is correct…
Since I going the DIY road, it makes things a little more difficult than companys which has more recources for tuning their systems in… I will keep you updated when I start my project :slight_smile:

If you look at how much richer or leaner a cylinder runs by virtue of the timing of the injection pulse, then the percentage change is going to be minor relative to the total amount injected. You won’t need larger injectors for this reason as the limit of size versus usage will occur at high rpm, whether batch fired or sequential, when the distinction between the two becomes more or less irrelevant.

kind regards

About 10 years ago I retrofitted fuel injection to several british cars, among them MGB’s and Triumph 6’s. Theunusual thing I did was modify Zenith Stromberg carb bodies so they became throttle body type injection, but with much better performance. I did it so that I could maintain the look of the Brit carbs but get the performance of modern fuel injection. Unlike old fashioned Throttle body injection, I used high pressure injectors with great spray pattern so that the results were as good as in manifold injection. For the Triumph 6’s the TOTAL cost was under $500.My guesstimate with a Jag 6 would be another $100 or so. Most of the cost was the ecm. I have 4 XKE’s, 6 MGB’s, a couple of triumph Spit 6’s but have lost interest in them. nonetheless, it is straightforward to retrofit a great EFI to an E type for modest money and retain the original look.

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Hrm: I might need to find a couple of old 1.75 ZSs, for my Rover!!

Hi Peter

The kit came pre configured with three maps installed on the ECU. They will need fine tuning on the dyno once I have finished running the vehicle in. Take a look at the parts list I published it details all the components that came with the kit including the injectors. The Mangolsetsi manifold can only be bought via an approved distrbutor. So you need to find a company that retails these manifolds. The main reason for choosing this manifold, (which I specified when ordering the kit) was to retain the near original cooling system layout. A lot of the other manifolds available need a lot of replumbing. I bought everything off Emerald as they were recommended by Mangoletsi.

This is what my Emerald setup looks like with Jenvys and the big valve head. Goes a treat.

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Your set up looks great! I feel they were meant to have injection!:grinning:

Very nice pictures :smile:
I checked for mangoletsi manifold at their webshop but couldn’t find any, they probably don’t keep it on shelf. I will contact them and see what they say.

I have heard they have become difficult to contact for some reason.

I have a Rob Beere Weber manifold.


Hey Peter

I bought mine from Emerald. I believe they have stock now. Don’t bother with dealing with Mangoletsi, talk to Leoni at Emerald you don’t have to buy the whole kit you can buy whatever pieces you need.

Thank you for the info, it’s so much easier when you can order it from a well known supplier…

Sorry for being stubborn but after thinking about this a little… when I was talking about bigger injectors, I was refering to full sequential injection which means one squirt per 720 degrees which can’t be obtain with only a toothed wheel… it needs at least a cam sensor too.

Otherwise since when only a crank mounted toothed wheel is used, it’s semi-sequential which uses 2 squirts per stroke.

So now I have something to think about :smile: how do I mount a cam sensor? Just kidding… semi-sequentiality is good enough since you seem very pleased with you installations.

Even batch injection is good enough. I have implemented 3 Jag V12 efi projects where all 6 injectors on a bank is activated at once. My own '80 XJS is one of them. I used Megasquirt 2 on these projects.

The jag v12 is really a “double six”. So semi-sequential on a 6 is the same as the injection regime I use on the v12 where fuel is injected per bank twice per 360 degs.

You can add a Ford VR sensor as a cam sensor. Drill a hole in the cam cover just big enough to slide the sensor head in. Put the hole on the sprocket retaining bolt diameter and replace three of the four with 316 stainless bolts…316 doesn’t trigger the VR sensor. Make a mount as in the picture . Make sure the steel bolt head is triggering before the crank wheel and you can “synch” the engine for full sequential injection. I did this on my V12 using a MS3…it starts well and idles smoothly at 650rpm. Possibly more lively and other benefits as well.
I’ll attach a photo so can see how it looks.

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Hello again, I need some advice and I believe this is the right place.
My not original fuelpump didn’t work as it should this weekend, had to knock on it every time the car stopped, to get the car back home to my garage.

I want to buy a new elecronic fuelpump and since I prepare to install efi in a near future I need advice which fuel pump to buy. I probably need a FPR to avoid my 3SU carburetors from “overfill”.
Any advice?

// Peter

Just replace the original one, you’ll still need it when you get the FI set up, it’ll supply the HP pump.
What system are you looking at?

Ok, I thought so. will by one from SNG Barrat then, and I’m planning to use Megasquirt since I’ve used it before…
// Peter