Installing Fuel injection and electronic ignition Etype Series 2

Hi

Dino is right, most of the Fuel injection systems I considered when deciding what to buy advise that you retain your original fuel pump and system up to the glass bowl filter in the engine bay. This ensures you minimise the amount of high pressure fuel line in your vehicle and you can avoid the need for return pipes to the fuel tank etc.

Paul

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No no no. It will run OK for half an hour but then you will find out why engines do not like hot fuel.

You must return the fuel to the tank, recirculating the fuel in the engine bay is a potential disaster.

The best case scenario is that when your engine is warm, idling in traffic you will conk out because your fuel is too hot. You will cause fuel vaporisation. You will boil your fuel if you put the swirl pot in the engine bay. The hot fuel will also destroy your fuel pump if it is under the bonnet.

The worst case scenario is a fire. You do not want half a litre of boiling fuel under the bonnet.

All fuel injected cars for the last 20 years have recirculated unused fuel back to the tank and therefore pumped cool fuel into the engine bay from the tank.

Fitting an ā€œin tankā€ high pressure fuel pump in the tank is not difficult and fitting a fuel return line back to the tank on an e type is not too bad either.

I hung the pump inside a swirl pot from the top of the tank. No need to remove the tank to put the pump in, no need to remove the tank to hang a copper fuel return line under the car either. You can do it without having to make an extra hole or cut in an E type body.

You might like to consider a fuel pump relay (easy to fit), as your HP pump will draw more current than your ignition switch is designed to handle.

I did it here and it stopped all my problems. I did keep the old pump though, just in case!

http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10403&start=40

The car runs like a dream in hot weather conditions, puts the finger up at bad traffic, flies along and does 25mpg.

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HI James

How hot does the fuel need to be before it becomes a problem for the vehicle. Iā€™ve just taken my Etype for a fast run then left it to idle and measured the temperatures:

Original Fuel system glass bowl 27C
Swirl Pot 39C
Fuel injection Pump 32C
Fuel Rail 49C
Engine 70C
Inlet Manifold 70C

Hello Paul, good to hear from you.

I think it depends on your exact set up. I can only talk from my experiences on 95 and 98 octane gas.

With the swirl pot under the bonnet, I had problems in the winter and the summer. The hotter the ambient temperature the quicker it would start misfiring and eventually cut out.

In the winter, It would be fine if the car was moving. More than 15 minutes stationary and the fuel would start vaporizing. This would manifest itself in missing cylinders until it cut out completely.

If I was driving then I parked, heat would still pour into the swirl pot. I would have difficulty starting 10 or 15 minutes later.

The flash point of gasoline in a closed cup environment can be as little as 27 degrees C. I never measured my furl temperature, would have been interesting.

When I changed the system to recirculate back into the tank (as suggested by Phil D), it all settled down and behaved itself.

ā€œAll fuel injected cars for the last 20 years have recirculated unused fuel back to the tankā€

Land rover discovery 2 (ā€˜99 -ā€™ 04) v8 and range rover (99 - 04) had a Bosch EFI system with a non return EFI fuel supply system.

Swirl pot, FPR, fuel pump and fuel level sensor was all 1 integrated unit in the tank.

Thanks Philip,

That must be why mine was always popping and farting when it got hot then(ha ha).

I have the swirl pot and Fuel Pump in the tank. The fuel regulator is in the engine bay. The fuel level sensor is the original item.

I cannot identify the swirl pot. It may be a modified Bosch 0580203028 with a Bosh fuel pump 0580454138.

It was mounted to the base of the tank, it is now hanging from the top.

James

Still not convinced if I should buy a new ā€œoriginalā€ fuel pump. I still wonder why it isnā€™t alternative just to have a high pressure FP, a FPR after the fuel rail/ injectors and then a return line.
I replaced a mechanical fuel injection (Bosch K-jet) with EFI having that setup without any problem.
The EFI system will cut off the fuel delivery as soon as the trigger pulses stops from the engine in case of an accident etc.
// Peter

The only thing I have reservations about is the heat the fuel pump will be exposed toā€¦After switch off. While the engine runs, the fuel being circulated through the fuel pump should keep it cool. Otherwise, I canā€™t see any reason either.

What is the cam position sensor doing on a straight 6 without variable cam timing?
Just interested and curious

If one would like full sequential injection.

So that the ecu can know on what stroke each piston is, and thus know when to inject the fuel (and spark) for that cylinder when doing sequential efi.

Thanks. Iā€™m a bit slow on this stuff.

07714 759198

Phillip is correct in pointing out that the fuel pump temperature is important. The only thing keeping the pump from overheating and failing is cooling effect of having fuel run through it. This fuel has to relatively cool itself, so mounting the swirl pot in the engine bay is a recipie for disaster.

As the pump has to supply enough fuel for operation at maximum rpm, you can be sure that under normal running conditions of just ~2-3000rpm, most of the fuel is returned and recirculated.

My first FI setup used the standard lift pumps to fill a swirl pot in the boot which then fed the FI rail. Returning fuel came back to the swirl pot which then overflowed to the main tank. For a car running only petrol, this ought to work fine, but my car is dual fuel and I almost never run petrol. The 100% unused fuel simply got hotter and hotter and wrecked two Lucas FI pumps before I worked out why this was happening. The standard petrol car, by comparison, will use ~30-40% of the fuel pumped, so is topped up with ~30% cool fuel to the recirculating fuel and this is sufficient to keep overheating at bay.

The later fuel injected v12s ran in-tank pumps, as I do now. This gives the coolest fuel possible as the return is mixed the whole of the tank contents,not just the unused swirl pot volume.

kind regards
Marek

Picking up an old threadā€¦
I made an total renovation of my front suspension this winter, changed a cracked right engine frame, totally rebuild my 3 SU carbs etc. I also installed a Megasquirt MS3X EFI system for future enhancements. Right now I only control a waisted spark ignition from the ECU.
Does anyone have a decent ignition map for a stock 4.2 l engine? I have looked at the E-type forum but there are mostly 123-distributor curves and megajolt maps, maybe someone has a Megasquirt map to share.

How is a Megajolt map different from a Megasquirt map please?
kind regards
Marek

What is the device where the air filter assembly is normally installed?

I bought a smaller mangoletsi ā€œsportā€ air cleaner and got some space over :slight_smile:

It is a special (big) relay which cuts the main power from battery, I hated the mechanical main switch PO had mounted on the passengers side on one of the blanking plates(hard to reach). Planned to mount it in the trunk but found this location instead.

They are forced to use these power relays on on farming machines (tractors etc) in Sweden to prevent fire. Since I park in my garage which is connected to my house i donā€™t want to risk any fire and this solution makes the carā€™s power totally off as soon as the ignition is turned off (have a small wire to the radios memory though.

I think its a brilliant solution, just press like a spring loaded hidden button to enable the relay and turn the ignition on, release the buttont and the relay is on until ignition turns off .

About other maps, they donā€™t have the same resolution,fewer cells as mine. I have to interpolate every other cell which is possible of course but prefer a simular map if such exist. Thought Megasquirt is more common in US then England so maybe some one have one :slight_smile:

There ought to be a couple of people on the UK forum with six cylinder mapped ignitions. Remember to ask whether they have the same camshaft fitted as you have, as this might affect settings at idle.

kind regards
Marek

I have a 6 cylinder .map file I can email you if you PM me.
James

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Thanks, I will send a PM.