Installing rear sway bar mount bushings

I’ve been getting an increasing amount of squeaking from my rear when I go over speed bumps or road dips. I’m think it’s the D bushings as they are plain rubber and 18 years old now. I’m thinking it should be possible to just loosen the four mounting bolts on the brackets and slide them out to the side and slip the new ones in without having to do a bunch of other disassembly. Sound right?

Maybe. I’d take one bracket off at a time, pull the bushing off - it’s slit down the center of the flat side and replace. The bolts that secure the bracket aren’t very long - just loosing them may not give you enough clearance. It’s a very easy job - bolts are 3/8 nf and take a 9/16th socket.

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Sounds ok, as you do it just repeat ‘please don’t spin captive nut’ always helps

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I think you also need to lift the weight off the ARB ends, otherwise the bar will tilt/pivot about the unloosened bracket.

The bushing itself is split, but I can’t remember if there is a retaining lip on the body side.

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Is it not in equilibrium with both wheels on floor?

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I’m not 100 % certain. If it were, then why did Jaguar spend all that money for 2 fixed mounts when one would suffice.

Iirc you need to use a bit of force to hook up the 2nd end.

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I thought it worked by resisting over movement of one wheel but has no resistance to both, it only prevents body roll. It works like a torsion bar so needs support at both ends.
I think.

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Just undo both mounts and replace the bushes, if you try to do one you will be fighting the ARB.

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Yes, at rest, and on flat floors, there is no differential between sides of an ARB.

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Thanks everybody, I may give it a shot this weekend weather permitting.

If you get the opportunity prior I would recommend penetrating fluid before attempting to undo the bolts. This area is subject to spray, road debris ect and the captive nuts can let go leaving you a bit of a problem. Soak a few days before trying to do the job.

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Will do! I think I used new bolts here 18 years ago, but it was 18 years and 19k miles.

That’s one of the places where you might want to put ant seize on the threads.

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Other than electrical parts, I put nevrsieze on all the fasteners.

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I’m all de-squeaked. It was fully possible to do it without removing the links. However I had to pull the wheel, and put a jack under the arm to raise and lower it as necessary to both free up the old bush as well as to get it put back together.

FYI, there really didn’t seem to be much wrong with the rubber D-bushes that were in there. They seem as supple as the day they were installed My gut feeling is that the reason for it was that I had the bar powder coated when I did the IRS. The original bars aren’t a picture of smoothness. Nor is powder coating itself. It’s kind of shiny but a little lumpy. Those imperfections were likely putting some drag on the bushings which make a lot of surface contact.

I used strips of fine emery paper to sand the areas where the bushes make contact to a nice smooth satin finish before installing the new parts. It’s totally silent now.

It looks like you’ve brought your squeak issue to a successful conclusion, Erika. Now that you’re done, I have a suggestion: Follow CoolCat’s instructions to make your bushings permanently squeak-proof.

http://www.coolcatcorp.com/faqs/PolyBushGrease.html

I’ve done this on several LBCs whenever I’ve “upgraded” to poly bushings. It’s an ideal project for the OCD mechanic.

Absolute must yes. I’ve used SuperLube over my poly bushings, front, and now rear. It’s great stuff.