Hello Jag Experts, I wondered if someone might help me with a few questions.
I have a 86 XJ6, and I’m rebuilding my IRS hubs and stub axles. Here are the areas I’m struggling:
What is the torque speck on the outer axle nut? I’ve seen 55 to 120 ft/lbs. I understand the procedure is to tighten the axle with the new race and bearings and then check the end float. When I did that, I had zero end play. I torqued to 100 ft/lbs, so I’m assuming that was too much.
Does someone sell a shim kit for the fulcrum/axle? I’m assuming I’ll need a kit for the wishbone and a kit for the axle to rebuild the hub. I was hoping I wouldn’t need shims, but I now believe I was mistaken.
When rebuilding the lower part of the hub, is there a more modern seal than the original three-piece? Could someone share a manufacture/part number?
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The clearances are set with shims, Adam - the torque of the axle nut plays no part in clearances, but is spec’ed to 55 ft/lbs…
It’s a somewhat elaborate, and important, procedure when replacing/adjusting hub carrier bearings - do you have a manual that describes it?
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
3
The long and short of it: You’re supposed to fully assemble and torque the bearings with an oversize shim of known thickness and measure the end play. Then you’re supposed to tear it all down again, remove your oversize shim and install a shim of the correct thickness that you have calculated based on your measurements.
Outer axle nut is 100 ft/lbs, that’s what I did.
Grease the splines and don’t use Loctite unless the splines are extremely worn.
For the fulcrum/axle, you must already have some shims. A combination of them and some washers I believe will do the job.
IIRC both are mounted with preload.
Hub seals modification:
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
5
I dunno, I kinda think you should Loctite the splines. Otherwise they will clink back and forth between throttle and brake, accelerating wear.
Thanks, Frank, I don’t have the procedure, but I think I understand the procedure. I’m not sure where to source new shims. The factory shims seem tight with the new bearings. I can’t feel any end play (though .001 to .003) would be very hard to “feel”. Also, rotation is snug.
The place where I ordered the bearings said the shims are $20/each and I’m not sure what size to start with to do the initial measuring. 150 thousand (.150)?
Do you think this is something a local machine shop might be able to get?
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A special tool is used for initial measurements, Adam; it simulates a specific shim thickness - the play is then measured to select the shim size required. Trial and error is more cumbersome, but perfectly feasible; you fit a shim of known thickness, measure play (preferably thinner than what’s required, to get a measurable play) - then compute the correct shim thickness.
The outer race of the bearing is fitted to the hub carrier; the shim fits against the inner race - so the thickness of the shim varies how much the inner race is moved axially. This gives the play - which must be measured with a dial gauge; the required play is, as you say, to small to be set by feel…
Without play, the races are to tight for lubrication, giving metal to metal contact - and the bearings are quickly destroyed. Too much clearance; the slack will cause excessive radial play - and the rollers will take a hammering…