I’ve read the tips on installing the irs. However… What should be mounted before putting irs back on? I seem to think the fuel tank was first, but can’t remember now. I know left bumper is before fuel tank. I just want to make sure I’m not taking it off again. Tia
Prior to IRS going in:
- Fuel line from boot bulkhead to the front of the car.
- Center support for the fuel tank (can be done later but easier before IRS is in).
- Parking brake cable routed.
- Rear brake line routed.
5, 6, 7, 8, … THE DRIVE SHAFT!!!
The engine isn’t in the car yet, so I assume I can skip that until I’m putting engine in. The rest was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks
Since the engine isn’t in the balance of the car will be waaaay to the rear of the car. Be sure to support the body as close to the IRS as possible so it doesn’t tip backwards on you. You may want to strap some weight to the engine frames or front suspension just to be sure. I strapped my engine frames to the front legs of my 2-post lift to keep the front end down until the engine went in. Good luck! Really not that difficult if you have a decent jack to lift the IRS. I did mine by myself with no issues.
You can drop the IRS from a fully assembled car so you want everything on the car.
I fully agree with Doug, except that if you put the tank support bracket in and haven’t installed the tank you will need to remove it later to get the tank into the boot. It is actually pretty easy to access with the IRS in and I use a stubby 7/16" ratchet spanner to do the nuts up.
Put the rear mounts on the car and the front ones on the IRS. Once the IRS is in place you can’t access the bolts for the rear mounts.
Make sure that if you are going to install the shocks before putting the IRS in that the rear upper shock mounting bolts are installed with the head towards the front of the car. If you put them in from the rear of the cage you will not be able to remove them in the future. I usually leave the shocks off until the IRS is in anyway and once it’s in you can’t put those bolts in the wrong way.
Installing the IRS usually involves a bit of effort. Expect that you may have to jack the front or rear up to line the bolts up.
Don’t stress if you can’t get the radius arm bushes to fit onto the cups. This usually requires weight in the back of the car. I often stand in the boot with the wheels on the ground to get them to line up.
Have a couple of large Phillips screwdrivers or tapered punches on hand so that you can hammer them into the bolt holes to get alignment. It’s worth making sure that the shims for the mounts fit before you try to fit the IRS. There should be one on each side of the box section on the body inside the mount. If they don’t fit now’s the time to slightly open the mounts so that they’ll fit.
Finally, now’s the time to consider fitting remote brake bleeders. With the IRS in it is very difficult to reach the rear bleeders without removing the front pair of shockers. Remote bleeders get around this, but they are nigh on impossible to fit once the IRS is in the car.
I solved that problem by making a T bar from 2x4s, bolting short length to the picture frame and long leg to a ceiling joist in my shop . Car is supported by 4 jack stands spaced at each end of the floor subframes. Reinstallation will require placing ramps under rear wheels after IRS is installed, then removing T bar.