Finally after a winter of welding,filler,painting,making fuel lones,service I thought it would be good to run the the car on pillar with wheels in air just to see if anything more would occur and sure did.
Speedometer work in idling in drive but as soon as I put foot on gas pedal the needle goes to 0 on speedometer and when rev goes down it catch up again at 20km/h. Wire seems to be ok but my car has geardrive in to box and is a 1982?
I also hear a knocking noise when acc.and deacc…knocking seems to come from rear support of gearbox. Bushing seems ok looking on it
Finally a contact housing hangs down and I striped it back. I also notice that a cover is missing
So here are my questions:
Speedometer:is my problem a typical angle gear problem?
Cover:surely there should a cover over the big hole,right?
Knocking noise when gearbox moves:Bushing broken?
Wire harnes: what is the 4 pole contact for?
Thanks
Johnny
Top picture show contact and cover missing. Below is just angle gear
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Surely the 82 should have an electronic speedometer, Johnny…??
…which doesn’t explain its behavior - which indeed sounds more like one of a cable driven one. If cable driven; check the square drive connections for wear causing slipping - and inspect the cable for kinks? If electronic; it’s most likely a bad electric connection, or a faulty speedo - I trust the engine is running OK…
Hi ,
Well it is gear driven for sure but a 4 pole contact housing hanging in area so maybe someone has exchanged in the past?
I made a test drive with nearly no brakes and speedometergoes up to 40 km and then stop. I have checked in gear end and squareis fine. I have ordered new gear and itwill arrive on tuesday.
Brake pistons has been greased up and moved back and pushed out again but very hard pedal force is needed. First I thought it was rust on discs but that is gone so next thing to check is vaccum…then steering gear dust boot is bad and…
I have 4 Jaguars and my idea was to make one ready for road without beeing too picky and drive oldtimer insummer and then focus on the other 3 but start to doubt it will be ready for MOT before summer…
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It spells lack of booster assist, Johnny - so checking booster vacuum seems sensible…
One test; there should be a brief ‘hiss’ of air entering the booster through the coaxial air inlet at the pedal - when the pedal is pushed. Stopping as the pedal is constant. A continuous ‘hiss’ implies a leaking booster…
I have not had time to look deeper in to it but drowe it in to garage and when starting I felt that vaccum is working on the pedal. It will rain for 1 week now so will make more test drives after that.
Well, I have now driven the car on the gravel road and plan MOT on Monday. Exhust is the only thing I know will fail.If I get it right in one place it lack pipe in another end.
Brake booster work fine anyway…
I had similar issues and the only thing that helped was an extension of the y-pipe in both rear ends. Not easy on stainless pipes, but owner happy ever after:-)
Hi all,
Well MOT made and I must have given a good impression because they want to see me again!
9 point,some easy and some need new parts. All 4 dust boots for joints in front were gone,horn did not function,no brake lights(fuse was dead) and noise from exhaust and bad hand brake,uneven brake rear.
I will try to solbe brake without taking down IRS and have bought pipe to extend pipe acc. to suggestion(thanks for that,Jochen)
To be continiued…
I had the same MOT issue about uneven handbrakes and can confirm that it is a veery tedious job to do be done in situ (find my thread; in my case the self-adjusting mechanism had decomposed inside one of the hand brake calipers). Frankly, the thing that mostly kept us from lowering the IRS was the exhaust. If, however, you’re going to take out the Y-pipe anyhow, it is a lot easier to drop the IRS to do the handbreak job (maybe even rear rotors/brake pads, once you’re in there) as per the good book.
It is possible (but not easy) to remove the handbrake calipers on an XJ (S1-S3) without dropping the IRS.
It involves unmounting the whole bottom plate of the IRS and some handy work to get the locking plates and bolts out. I’ve done it once due to faulty hand brake pads!
when I was at it I even removed the caliper without taking off the bottom plate: once freed the caliper can be rotated around the rotor and removed sideways out of the cage. Still, if the entire shebang is down, it is a much cleaner job allowing you to do every bit simultaneously on both sides and rest assured that everything should keep working for the next twenty years … In situ you inevitably feel like barely bodging things together. But, that being said, my own handbrake has been working flawlessly ever since the repair … one sided bodge or not!
Sure, my only problem after a complete IRS rebuild was a faulty handbrake pad that failed after 400 km BEFORE the next MOT (TÜV).
So it worked to just take that handbrake caliper out.
Cheers!
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
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I’d think the first thing to check here is if there is any oil on the rotors. Even a tiny leak from one of the diff output shaft seals will lubricate the inboard surface of the rotor, rendering that side of the caliper ineffective. If it happens on just one side, you’d have uneven braking. Usually an indicator is a pad that isn’t wearing at all, so some pads are well worn while others look new.
Best solution, of course, is upgrading to vented rear rotors – but I’ve preached that enough.
Well,car was omly driven 12 km to MOT after been still over 15 years so was not surprised. Before I took out the pads and pushed out the pistons a bit (with IRS in place) and put on brake grease (found this wonderful brake grease in spray form)carefully. I now drive it daily and wait for front suspension parts and got hope that brake performance will be more even. Hand brake ,well,I tightened the adjustment under drivers floor and will check if it has improved the performance. Will extend exhaust next week.
Late June all wil be next MOT.
