Choke properly adjusted? The third click on my choke knob engages the fuel enrichment phase. Prior to that it’s just fast running.
Hmm… I think so, but why would it start, and then quit after running “good” for a few seconds? I would think if there was a problem with the choke it wouldn’t start??
Thanks
Wait, you’re switching between points and pertronix? Have you reset the timing? I’ve found that a Lucas pertronix module is maybe 60 degrees off from where properly timed points are. It is not quite plug and play.
It might be too rich. Watch the carb linkage as you pull out the lever and make sure that the enrichment arm isn’t moving until you go past the second click detent.
Well, I had the Pertronix in, then put in points, car essentially did the same thing, (ran for a bit then died.) It definitely didn’t run as smooth with the points, so I took them out and put the Pertronix back in
Is it a pertronix 1 (the $80) one or later second version (red module I think)? If it’s the first one you can do a static timing with a test light. Unfortunately the second version can’t be statically timed which stinks. I think your timing might be off, and could cause a quick run which does out, depending how off it is.
Andy Preston mentioned the funny little fibre washers with the cutouts that allow the fuel bowl to vent to atmosphere. You replied that you had fibre washers between the overflow pipes and the fuel bowl. Are these definitely the ones with the cutouts as using normal fiber washers would cause the symptoms you describe.
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I thought the same as Lloyd, does the system include a ballast resistor in the circuit? If so try bypassing it.
It’s the 1st gen, Igniter, and black in color. Interesting that the timing might be off, as I didn’t change it, although it’s possible I might have moved the distributor in my efforts to reach around and get the old intake manifold unbolted and off…
Hey John, I’m thinking electrical too, as I noted it shuts off like someone flipped a switch, vs fuel starvation which is, in my experience, a winding down. The switch was replace last summer, but I’ll look at it.
Thanks!
Hi. Yes the ones with the notched id’s I appreciate the idea though!
Could you verify you pertronix wiring is correct to the coil?
Black to - and red to + sides of coil
No ballast resister in the circuit
Also I checked the ignition switch and all the connections seem clean and tight, it was new back in August
Condenser?
It's a capacitor, right? Maybe it's over charging and shorting
out. That would turn off the car.
BrianM
Did the engine run fine before the conversion ?
If it did , and all you changed is the carbs , it would point to a carb issue !
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Sounds electrical Robert. Two easy things to check.
When the engine dies, does the red light on the speedo come on?
It should do. If it doesn’t then it indicates like the ignition switch. With the ignition on, waggle the wires at the back of the switch and see if it makes the red light flash. Replace the switch or bypass it temporarily. Old Lucus ignition switches are prone to burn out with the higher current loads of unswitched electronic ignition units.
Does the engine die at the point in time you release the starter motor on the ignition key? If so, you may have swapped the coil feed wire for something like the oil pressure sender wire. They are in the same place and look similar. Swap them back!
Clogged tank vent will not kill th engine in a few seconds.
To eliminate fuel starvation issue, when it restarts, does it take a while to crank or do you have to keep the key in to build pressure? If you have to run the pump a few seconds then it could be fuel. If not it means the bowls are full.
I recenty went though a similar experience with the conversion to triples, would idle for a few seconds, then just die. I could feather the throttle though and keep it running (I also happen to have the first gen Pertronix, but I suspect that is neither here nor there). So mine pointed to an idle circuit problem, so if yours is different then my findings will not likely be of use. My carbs were of unknown providence, having purchased them off a junkyard 2+2, then leaving them to sit in a box for about 15 years (life got in the way, at least they were cheap compared to now). I put a rebuild kit in them (those diaphragms were like rocks), just left the adjustments where they were (heck, the previous car likely ran), and tried them, no love. Checked over the setup and discovered I couldn’t turn two of the air screws. PB Blaster and time, but still no love. Ended up pulling the carbs back apart and discovered debris in the air bypasses, also one of the throttle plates was not closing fully, was finally able to get it to idle. One observation I would make is that the idle air adjust was really soft, it is very easy to have one pair of cylinders do the work, so an air gauge is almost a must to get them setup correctly. I found them to be much fussier than the dual ZS in this regard.
I found with my triple SU set-up I could start and run the car with no fuel, just using starting spray in the carbs. It wont run great but running for 30-60 sec was not a problem.
This would narrow the problem to fuel, and you could stop worrying about electrics.
BrianM