Jacking Points Cleaning and Protection

It would appear a scrote of the lowest order has helped themselves to the jacking point bungs (C4928) from my car.

Replacements ordered and is a reminder to clean out and anti-rust. To clean I use a greasy rag and probe / stick but wondered what the thoughts are for rust preventative in there? In the past I have used aerosol motorcycle chain lube – squirts well at low temperature and sticks to where it touches. Note the car spends its life in the cold dark miserable wet and salty regime that is Ukadia.

I use a 50/50 mix of waxoil and old engine oil , I add the oil to keep things moving , creeps in to all the joints !

Thanks, do you have a sprayer / pump of some sort?

dunno whether they have it over in ole blighty, but fishoil in a spraycan from the autoshop is excellent, $5 can does 10 times what you need…I love the whiff of fishoil in the morning… smells like victory…over rust. I live right beside the ocean. (smell goes away after a while)…Waxoyl etc are similar, but more expensive

Thanks but such a concoction does not appear to be available to we salty old sea dogs.

I can recommend a Sealey Waxoyl spray kit SG18 about £162 inc VAT comprising spray gun and flexible lances - powered from a standard air compressor. I have used it v successfully on my XJ6 cill and other body cavities - less paranoid about taking the car out in the wet and salt now!

Frankie

On the contrary:

(Rustoleum was originally pigmented sardine oil which had been processed to remove the fish smell.)

I use Owatrol as a protective layer on areas like this. I thin it with mineral spirits. It will creep into a spot welded seam about as well as water if you thin it 50:50.

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If only I had known not to look for fish oil when looking for fish oil.

I drive around with the bungs out of the 4 holes to allow them to breath. At the car wash I can hose them out and remove what muck might accumulate. I would only replace them If I were attending a show which is rare. I was told they hold moisture which must be true as we always find MK2’s with rusted jacking points. I do live in extremely dry Colorado, USA which helps.

Gerard

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Thanks. Beginning to think it might be cheaper to relocate than keep the bugger going here in rot central.

We do have a rusty political situation that needs repair.

Gerard

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I think snake oil and not fish oil might be what you need for that little matter. May I ask, is no USian troubled by the hair do and the complete and utter bollocks* he speaks?

Shortly before the election a very well informed US resident explained the problem was Hilary had no credibility, and Donald was just incredible - but not in a good way…

*Non UKadians might request a definition if they so wish.

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I do the same, to the sills on the Rover. They are not a structural piece, but a “beauty cover,” of sorts.

On the Jag, I enlarged the drain holes on the sills, and sealed off the interior access holes. That way, I could wash them out regularly.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Export-Fish-Oil-400g/1556

the 1st Jag I bought, took it down to a long-established local rust-proofer, whose premises backed onto the sandunes. I was horrified when he drilled a number of holes and pumped the whole thing full of fishoil. The proprietor told me the smell dissipates in a few weeks at most, and it is MUCH cheaper, and more effective than anything else.

I wasnt very convinced, but that car never rusted at all, unlike others I have had that did not get that treatment…over later years I do it myself…drill the holes, pump the fishoil in with air compressor and hoses

You can buy “deodorised” fishoil, but it is twice the price

mixing anything with ATF will cause it to “creep” upwards, which is good

Thanks. Seems general consensus is fish oil in whatever form, but above all, oil that sticks, but the issue is getting in the right places - only way is drill and use a compressor etc. which I don’t have. For my little task I’ll use greasy rag / oily bottle brush to do the cleaning and then squirt in aerosol chain lube which runs well and sticks and will be better than nothing. As a general note whenever I have access to more hidden areas, say when door card is off, if necessary I usually clean with silicone wax household polish (with beeswax!) and never fear of leaving a coating of spray grease behind. Might be nonsense but I feel better!

You don’t need a compressor. A garden wand sprayer is fine for applying thinned fish oil. Have a look at B&Q for a sprayer to apply stain to wood decks - these will be safe with mineral spirits, but so are all of the garden sprayer ones I’ve tried.

The spray heads do tend to clog so you need to filter the mix to make sure there are no lumps in the sprayer, and you also can’t leave the sprayer filled for extended periods as the head/spraytube will sometimes dry out and form a film.

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I am going to walk all over this bloody car till I find the fish !!! lol th4I4JLSQD

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Can I suggest you consider getting a compressor? I use a small home/DIY one with a dedicated spray gun and nozzle. The result is a fine mist which penetrates everywhere - when I spray in one end of the cill cavity a fog of treatment fluid emerges from the drain holes at the other end - as if someone is blowing cigarette smoke through it. Nothing to beat it IMO.

Once you get the compressor you will want a set of air tools and find 101 other jobs for it to do - one of the best investments I have made.

Frankie

Thanks Frankie. Good advice. I am limited on space / time / resources etc so the lazy quick fix of aerosol chain lube will do for now.