. Hi Everyone: I am running triple weber Dellorto’s 45 DCOE’s. Went out for a bit yesterday and noticed my gas pedal was sticking. I had to actually place my foot behind the pedal and raise the gas pedal up in order to decelerate Was thinking of replacing the return spring for drop arm and accelerator spring…any other ideas would be appreciated.Will not purchase parts until I hear from you guys. Thank you!!.
I don’t know about the linkage for webers, but my pedal was sticking at full throttle (with triple SU carbs) and it turned out the linkage was hitting the frame rail under the carbs because the engine motor mounts had sagged which brought the linakge too close to the frame rail
Dennis 69 OTS
When I first mounted my engine it was a skinch too far to the rear jamming the linkage between the firewall and carbs. I’d imagine old mounts might allow the engine to slide rearward just enough.
How about cleaning and lubricating the hinge at the bottom of the pedal. Also check for floor mat interference.
Thanks Dennis I will check that. My linkage starting from gas pedal is original …never changed the weber carb linkage section looks ok.I installed all new motor mounts so I am guessing next step would be replacing the return springs. I just wanted to explore any other possibilities that would make a pedal stick and not return once depressed.
In a message dated 4/20/2019 10:40:36 AM Eastern Standard Time, noreply@jag-lovers.com writes:
This kind of question always makes me scratch my head… It seems obvious to me that something, somewhere, is sticking. There can be no other explanation. What is sticking? It could be absolutely ANY part of the throttle linkage, from the hinge on the pedal to the throttle shafts, or anything in-between. There is absolutely NOTHING anyone here can tell you about what/where the problem is, without flat-out guessing. The ONLY solution is to methodically examine every single piece of the whole system, eliminating pieces one-by one until you find the culprit. Start at the carbs - disconnect the the drop links, and make sure all throttles close fully by themselves after being opened and slowly closed. Once you’re satisfies that is ok, re-connect the drop links, and disconnect the “far end” of whatever the next piece is, and verify that there is no problem there. Then move on to the next piece. In about 15 minutes, you’ll know exactly where the problem is.
Regards,
Ray L.
3 Likes
Tommy
You need Ray in your garage!!
Dennis
69 OTS
1 Like
Sounds like I do Dennis. Where does Ray live? I am in Toms River, NJ.
In a message dated 4/20/2019 12:23:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, noreply@jag-lovers.com writes:
Sometime around 66/68 (?) AFAIK Jaguar changed the return spring arrangement for the pedal, going from a coil spring from the drop link to a bracket, to a - don’t know what you’d call it, spring that wrapped around the top bolt in the aluminum piece that holds the assembly to the fire wall. Assuming your car still has that, and it’s not broken or displaced, my experience with it is that the new spring does not work as well as the old one, and it’s worth while recreating the old one on the pedal. Doing so has greatly improved my '67 - it actually now idles at a consistent rpm, all the time. Like you I had to lift the gas pedal with my foot to try and slow the engine down. By the by Weber’s have quite strong internal return springs.
Had a set of SK Racing Weber/Delorto clones. Never ran the car with them, but DID debug the binds. There are probably 3 heim style brackets, which get stiff and seem to require constant attention (why guys like stock, proven, stuff). If these things aren’t absolutely in a line they WILL bind. They have more adjustments than a rental tuxedo. Now, you probably didn’t change anything, so stuff creeping, corroding or loosening seems most likely. I sold the set up, demonstrating my common sense.