Working on the IRS.
Why black if it can be red.
Frank.
I like it!
With body color on that, it might appear better. Love to see installed pix.
Looks great colour……. Got mirrors to lay on the ground so everyone can see it!
1 Like
It would be a great combo with a black, dark green, or dark blue E-type. However, for gold or yellow… don’t…
Dave
I’d need bigger Q tips !
1 Like
Install the rear handbrake compensator, but it’s a strange thing, hope it will work fine.
Have to take it from the bench, because it gone be heavy to lift it up for me.
Frank e type S1 '63.
I recall a decade or so ago a Brit powder coated his rear cage and all the bits White! I can’t imagine it stayed white for long even if the car was little used.
For information, mine is currently road dirt and waxoyl over black hammerite with traces of iron oxide and grease.
Plus those drips of engine oil (from the rear crank seal, front crank seal timing cover cam oil feed gearbox seals) that aren’t sucked up by the underside of the body or dribbled onto the road.
4 Likes
Hi Chris, yes if you can drive the car, it’s better and have fun.
I have fun to work on the parts and some powercoated, too. Do have a machine, but the oven is a little to small for big parts.
Frank.
1 Like
Really struggle to get the T bones in, rings fallen down, but in the end, I am happy.
So the drive shafts are maybe not a problem.
Frank e type '63.
Great work!!! I just wrapped up putting mine back together last week. I never flipped it over however. I just had the pumpkin sitting with the mounting brackets attached on a transmission jack. With the jack up as high as it would go, it was easy to work on. I work alone and I’m concerned about moving, lifting, turning or rotating anything heavy. I lifted the pumpkin up once to move it. That thing is heavy!!! I’ve become more of a slider than a mover.
Getting the first dog bone in was challenging. I put all the washers, rings, etc. on with grease but every time I offered it up, at least one big washer would fall off. I ended up putting everything on the sides of the wish bone that face the mounting bracket and sliding it into place then quickly inserting dowels to temporarily hold it there. Then I gently pried the cage out a bit and put the pieces, one side at time, on the outside of the pivot points. I think I spent 30 minutes on one side and 5 on the other.
Getting the drive shafts and rest in wasn’t nearly as challenging.
1 Like
I feel your pain…
I do nothing like that, w/o a back belt, and I’m a slider, too.
50+ years of abuse and injury exact a cost.
My trick for the lower control arms was a wooden dowel, exactly long enough to span the entire length of both outer washers and seals, then have the fulcrum rod at the ready, after dropping it into its allotted space then s l o w l y pushing the dowel out with the rod.
Hard to tell from the pictures, what color did you paint them? Looks almost like a light aqua in the picture. That must be a trick of the lighting.
Please let us know if it does work, Frank. The stock setup is ok holding the car parked on a 5 degree slope (maybe) but otherwise useless as an e-brake!
Dave, yes, I reed that you didn’t flip it over, tried that first, but did not succeed in it. Getting a little angry and strong, so I took the thing and flipped it over. Tried also two dummies for the rings but then I could not get the long shaft in.
My back was hurting a lot, but went back the next day for the drive shafts, the drive shafts weren’t the difficult but the wheel hub on the right side did not fit fine, while I tested them first on the bench.
Photo’s later. Frank.
Nickolas, I will let a lot about the Handbrake Compensator from Sng. , did notice that it had no spring for the return, so I made that right with two springs like the XJ.
Nice work to finish one big part of the car. Took a lot of cleaning and painting and powercoated the brakes.
Frank e type '63 FHC.
John, they are “AQUA” painted, just have a little fun with it.
Frank. e type '63 FHC.
1 Like
I’m having a bit of problem getting the whole thing back in the car. I read on here to put one set of mounts on the car and one on the cage. I did that with the rear mounts on the car and the front mounts on the cage. I couldn’t get it all lined up. It was getting late so I thought I’d call it a night and tackle it again later this week.
I’m using new mounts. I’m sure the old mounts were original. Each one had taken a bit of set to one side.
Long tapered punches are your friends for reinstallation with new mounts.
2 Likes
Dave;
It has been since 2014 since I reinstalled mine, on my 1970 2+2, ut I remember the process well. I work alone and used a floor jack to remove and lift the IRS. Centered properly it works well and because I did not have the remote bleeders the first time I removed the IRS again and replaced it again.
Put a set of mounts on the front and a set on the back, do not tighten the nuts until all are in place, front and back, then go for it. As mentioned previously a set of tapered punches will be a big help to line the holes up. Once you have the mounts attached and bolted in place make sure the parking brake cable is attached, then the front stabilizer need to be attached to the car. you may need to use a come along to pull them into place. I attached it to the ‘axel’ and to the front lower ‘A’ are attach point and it worked well.
Good luck, Joel…
1 Like