Yes, iirc I got mine out by using a pair of pin punches and overlapping the ends so that I could take it how like a helix, which meant trashing the circlip. I must have been surpressing the memory.
I dont know how you did that, as the thickness of the shaft prevents the the clip from compressing to the point the ends overlap, AND the clip is so tight in the groove, there would be no space to overlap?
If i knew I could get a replacement c-clip, destructive removal would not be a concern.
I believe drilling and breaking it out would be quickestā¦will give a few bearing and fastener supply places a call before i visit my mechanic mateā¦one of his specialties is Landrovers
Tony,
Circlips, both internal and external are standardized. Itās worth getting a set of internal & External, in both metric and Imperial. Actual imperial sets are getting harder to find, but in practice the metric/imperial difference is really minor.
But for that afternoon when the one thing that you need to finish a job is a single circlip, that dusty box on the shelf is a godsend.
The problem with bending an end up so you can hook the clip out is that if the end breaks off then you end up using up some reserved vocabulary which is better held back for the really crucial tasks.
I have at times ended up using a cutting disc in a Dremel to cut a slot in the housing nose, down through the circlip which some genius had loctited inā¦ If the unit isnāt sealing or free of play before you fit the circlip, then the problem is BEHIND where the circlip is - but apparently some people arenāt aware of this relatively self evident truth.
Using a new set of correct shape circlip pliers, and on a hoist, I was able to extract the c-clip in 5mins intact, and install the new seals.
The Landrover sector shaft seal kit is correct and only $20ā¦i will insert the part number later
the bore in which the circlip resides had a nominal ID of ~44.5mm
now I can see there is also a leak coming from under the sector shaft lockdown nut.
it mentions this lockdown nut is a sealing item, and indeed a full OH kit contains a new nut
do you Andrew, or anyone else know if this lockdown nut can be backed of the sector shaft screw?.. and a washer or o-ring inserted?
the FSM seems to imply there is also a "square profile"seal under the sector shaft top cover
its confusing on whether the sector shaft cover can be removed on its own, implying the whole sector shaft/cover must come out as one
can the nut just be unwound and the sector shaft (top) cover be taken off in situ?
The Landrover seal kit is STC2848, and contains; (sector shaft) inner seal, metal washer, outer seal, c-clip
If all you need to do is repair that leak, all you need.
The Jaguar kit is an āinnerā and āouterā seal kits, which I will order from the UK so I have them on hand for an eventual overhaul
for the OP of this thread, maybe try these people
http://www.marlessteeringbox.com/
regarding the bush, it would seem this is the item
in my case, the fluid did not even drain out with the seals removed, so the clearance between shaft and bush is presumably satisfactory
cross-refencing part numbers, nearly every part is the same including sector shafts! (Jaguars)
The only parts different are case, input shaft and external pipes
It would be interesting to find if the Landrover has the same sector shaft, it would almost certainly have the same bearings
The Marles website states most worms and sector shafts are NLA (doesnt mention Jaguars)
It can be backed off, I think I may even have taken it apart that way - using the threaded adjusting screw as a jackscrew. I definitely put the cover on by fitting the shaft first, then winding the screw to walk it down.
Unfortunately, the memory card from my camera failed with all the photos I took as I was assembling the steering box for my S-type - this is really annoying as I was planning to do a photo essay on it.
From memory there is a thin bushing pressed into the top cover, but I donāt remember any seals on the inside.
I have not dismantled any boxes yet, but here is a spreadsheet excerpt that x-refs jag part nums for the Adwest boxesā¦a fellow doing a Daimler 250 sent me that info
from my preliminary investgations, most parts are nla, and finding a box without wear is increasingly difficult
Robert,
I have a '63 Mark X that originally came with the Burman box. It could not handle the modern radial tires. I believe I was the first one to attempt to put the later box in an early Mark X. I did not know if it would work, so I put in a used box. It leaked like hell. I got another box and sent it off to be rebuilt. It sat in the attic for the last ten years. I finally got around to swapping it out a couple of weeks ago. It does not leak one bit and is very smooth. The shop who rebuilt it was very good. They even found the main shaft out of tolerance. They welded in new material and ground it back to spec. I think it cost me $400 at the time.
PS Systems Inc., Miami, FL (305) 474-8705
Micah
I wonder if a Rolls Royce Saginaw box could be adapted and easier to find. If needed ratios and # turns could be customized. Also it has fore and aft mounting holes in the same plane as MKX.
Actually, I think I sent you a front beam and maybe one of those boxes many years ago out of WA State - glad to hear that you still have your beautiful car. Recently finally acquired a Mk10 of my own.
Ron,
If that were the case, yes it was many years go. Probably 2007.
Micah
And I still have the JCNA issue with your lovely black car on the cover stashed somewhere. Iām afraid mine is sort of the ugly step-sister, but Iām quite attached.
You will feel like a king cruising around
When you pass someone in a 420G, (or MKX) they have never seen one before
It is just time and money. Thatās all. You will get there but hopefully you will not be old broke by then. The Mark X/420G takes a lot of both.
Here she is out in front of the original ownerās house in Atherton around 2008. She last saw the car in 1967. SF Chronical did a story and sent a photographer. I think this shot is one of mine.
Micah
Just wonderful, what else is there to say. Iād like to hear what you did with wheels and tires on your car sometime if you care to share. I donāt know that I want wires, but I like the meat and my rubber is 16 years old - ok for getting the thing back on the road, but not for much moreā¦
Hereās my old scow.
Your beast looks good, nice color
I am also interested in @Micah_Wellman wheels, although I think he has it up here in the archives from many years ago, that car has always been a standard to aspire to for me
I think chromed S1 XJ 15" wheels look excellent
I personally have non-chromed XJ wheels, with S3 āEuro Trimā SS covers and special chromed caps (good chromed XJ wheels are hard to find these days)
They look fairly good, but are rare
Re MK10 steering box failures, some years ago I posted a warning about the MK10/420G later S types steering boxes about metal fatigue failures in the variomatic boxes. They were a great design in that you could make corners more easily. I used to drive them in Sydney in the mid 70ās and there was a kind of trap, in that you got used to āsightingā off the ridge on the fender tops and forgetting that the side of the car was quite a bit further out than what you were sighting off plus that increasing turn rate. It was very common to see MK10ās with both sides swipe-dented. Some years ago I was crawling up 6th St in SF traffic and the steering suddenly was gone. By the time I could react and stop the front wheel was already on the sidewalk. The main shaft had sheared completely off and the steering arm assy hanging down. I called around the wrecking yards and found that in both yards, 3 out 4 of their boxes had failed main shafts sheared off at the same place. So red-flag time. I inspected the broken pieces and saw where a fatigue crack had started and eventually caused it to shear. As I recall it was next to the machined flat in the shaft where thereās a sharp inner corner edge, always a potential cracking risk there. (Iāve owned and restored early jags for decades and have a materials testing background). (The earlier MK10 3.8 boxes had their own issues, they would sometimes pressure-blow the top off the box if you turned the wheels too hard against a curb, but at least the shaft wouldnāt break). BUT I wouldnāt drive an other of these with the later box without adapting a rack and pinion from say an XJ6. Or have the shaft x-rayed/magnafluxed. These boxes installed in the Stypes MIGHT be less likely to fail because they had less loading. The big Daimler Sovereign DS420 had the same platform and you could still buy a brand new box thru the 90ās prbly could still find one that way, but even then, not what Iād call relaxed driving. Would be interesting to hear from others about these boxes, it may be that here in the States they were driven a lot less? I hate to be the one to throw a damper on these cars, they were the greatest advance in outstanding cornering and road-handing of their time. Too bad Jaguar didnāt make the boxes themselves. Iām not making a general attack on the Mark, just my experience and some potential remedies. Maxjaguar -jagging since1968.
Thats a bit concerning, and something I have never heard of before
I presume you mean the sector shaft that attaches to the Pitman arm snapped of near the thread ?
These Adwest boxes were also used in Landrovers,
so presumably they machined the shaft without that fault
(its the same size, takes the same seal kit etc)
I swapped one out of my 420G recently, and have been meaning to take it apart, so that is something I would like to try and check.
(I know the Jaguar IRS rear output shaft can also fail in exactly the same way)
To the very best of my knowledge, no one has been able to successfully install a rack & pinion in these vehicles, without transplanting an entire XJ IFS
Itās too bad these cars arenāt more popular to warrant re-engineering a steering box. Iām a picturing a bespoke CNC billet Saginaw box. Do you think there would be any demand?
I converted from the Burman box after popping the cover and sending a stud into the bottom of the bonnet with enough force to dent it.
Thanks for the compliments.
The wheels are from Dayton Wire Wheels. They are a true knock off that uses an adaptor hub bolted to the original hub. They were custom made for me and I donāt recall the details. Iām sure I have them somewhere. I run a 205-55-17. This kept the same tyre diameter and therefore had no effect on the speedometer or steering geometry. The thin sidewall makes for great handling and makes her, along with the five speed, more of a sport sedan.
Micah