Jaguar XKE Trunk Springs Replacement

Hi All,

Just an fyi…

Have searched and studied many of the posts regarding how to replace the springs on the XKE trunk hinge.

What I have found, thru trial and error, is the best way is to build the x5 spring pack for each side, then mount the bundle and pull each spring out (starting from the inner spring) and extend over the hinge post. Do one spring at a time… The first 2 springs are hard to pull out, but as you go it gets easier.

Trying to extend all 5 springs at one time is a much more difficult task, and one that I did not have any success.


reminds me of a funny story when I replaced mine. A neighbor was over watching and sort of helping.
I was battling the springs in a vise with a pair of vise grips and pliers, the springs flew off about a dozen times, and every time my friend would say " I bet they had a special tool for these".
after another dozen flying springs and his exact same comment every time I finally said, “I bet they had a whole building full of special tools, but all we have are vise grips, so either shut up and help or leave” needless to say I finished the job alone. we are still friends tho and laugh about that day.

Bob F


Bob, I think that we can all agree, Jaguar had a special tool, a special procedure to install these springs…

They would not go through the agony we went through to install these guys…

Thanks, Bob

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Just an observation: If I had to install those I think I’d invest in mechanics gloves, kevlar sleeves and a full face shield.

All the years I worked on these beasts, and I never had to do those ##+€@ing things.

Happy. This article might be of help. It’s got pictures also.

If the hinges are freshly painted, wait a week or two (to let the paint harden) before putting on springs. It’ll still scratch the new paint, but not as much.


Replacing those springs was the most miserable job I ever attempted in my xke. They never did fit right and I eventually sold the car. I have had several more xkes through the years and the first thing I always check are the trunk springs. I’ll take a rusty floor over bad trunk springs. I’ll take a loose timing chain, a loud valve train, a leaky main seal, a rotten transmission mount, a bad universal joint, or almost anything except bad trunk springs. God, why do I own these cars?


I guess I must have done it the wrong way! I don’t recall having a lot of fun during the hour or so I spent doing this, but certainly don’t remember it being the nightmare so many folks are referring to. I wore gloves - well worn flexible leather gardening gloves I think - and no doubt followed the advice I found on this forum. Perhaps I got lucky, or maybe I invented the best method ever. Wish I could remember…:smiley:



Paul’s-heimers? :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye::joy:

Like many jobs, the first spring cluster that you install is a bit fiddly but once you understand what to do, the second one goes pretty smoothly. The link above of Dick Maury’s explains the process and if you follow it, replacing boot springs doesn’t even make it into my honorable mention of tough E Type jobs.

I’m with the ‘no-blood, some-sweat’ crowd. I used that method where you layer the springs into a pack by putting them on a metal rod (held in a vise) one at a time then fit them to the hinge. Not too bad as I recall - I found at least 3 methods documented here on the Forum and I used parts from 2 of them. Quite possibly some are not as easy to execute.

I went with one extra spring on each hinge since I sometimes have a luggage but that extra spring probably doesn’t make much difference - the lid just pops open with the rack on there but will not stay up - I have a different support to achieve that.

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smallE Type Bootlid spring renewal.pdf (813.9 KB)

Glad my Rover uses torsion bars!!!


Take a look at Dick Maury’s successful approach to replacing boot lid springs.

Happy Motoring,

Dick Wells

'74 OTS
'99 XJR
1947 Stinson 108-1 “Voyager”

I used this approach as well, worked great as Geo said ‘no blood’. I can sure see how there would be though, those things are sharp and under a lot of force. I used 6 springs on my boot lid because 5 left it at half mast all the time (no rack on mine). Pops open smartly, so ‘smartly’ I put a rubber baby buggy bumper between the hinge arm and the body to keep it from ‘banging’ too hard.

Likely all these methods will ‘git her done’ but since we’re comparing our favorites - I reviewed 4 methods and went with this one:

(link removed due to domain hi-jacking)

Worked just fine for me.

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Me too – I fitted a short piece of fuel line over the stop peg to soften the opening jolt.

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Thanks Everyone for all of your posts on this.

Of all the various procedures used/recommended by other members, I ended up going with the one that connects all spring clips together, then starting from the inner most clip, grabbing and maneuvering one clip at a time. Alot less tension, and only the first 2 are the hardest. They get easier as you work your way inward.

Thanks again, Bob

Just a shout out to Dick Muray, Thank! Used your method to R & R the trunk springs today. It worked well, the first side was a bit of a learning curve, but the final, was a piece of cake. Its all about leverarge with a big screw driver and the vise grips!!! Dennis