Key Replacement

E-Type
1

I’ve lost my keys for the 65 Series 1 Roadster, i have looked at the archives but need clarification:

I had two keys, i never really checked but was:

One for the ignition
the other for the door locks and boot lock?

The locksmith is coming tomorrow and will need to access the barrels.

For the ignition barrel, i have the ignition switch out and can see the hole on the side but what next?
I’ve read you poke a wire into the hole but what are you trying to release? I can only see the barrel and a spring through the hole?? And the wire isn’t working.

And for the doors/boot lock - i presume the boot lock barrel will be easiest to get to rather than take apart the door? Paul S posted some info on the boot lock and i’ll try that.

Appreciate the help.

Stew

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2

In my '66 S1 FHC one key operates the ignition and doors

3

For my car ser 1 1/2 I replaced the ignition switch. Took out the key spindle and put in my original one so I was able to use my original key. Anyway I bought the ignition switch here;

https://www.bpnorthwest.com/jaguar/e-type/ignition-switch-4-terminal-w-accessory.html

4

Do you have heritage certificate for the car? I ask as often build records include the key numbers. They were not on my cert but since I had purchased one they were good enough to read them to me off of the records.

With the original numbers you can purchase an ‘original’ key or a cut-to-code copy.

5

I have a 65 OTS and just went through this process. You should have two FS style keys - one that operates the ignition and the doors and the second key for the boot. On the side of the barrels or mechanism, you might find a three digit number which is the key code. Also on the face of the ignition switch where you insert your key, look for the letters FS and a three digit code. Again, that would be your key code. Your locksmith can rekey the locks accordingly. Good luck, James

6

Ditto for my 63 FHC. I lost my key recently and was able to buy direct replacement NOS from some crowd in the US, so bought 2 while I was at it…not cheap though! The key number was on the face of the ignition barrel. Presume same for 65’s?? Can post co. name if interested.

7

thanks for the responses.

there is a key code which is on the face of the barrel.

Neither locksmith i have talked to have indicated that they can cut from just this code though. Might be a New Zealand thing.

I have left the ignition switch with one of them and they are going to remove the barrel as i couldn’t work it out and then cut a key - they have FS key blanks.

Then hopefully i just have to sort the boot lock which happily is unlocked.

Cheers

Stewart

8

Crisis might be over - locksmith just rang, job done $37…

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10

Locksmith did cut from code and operates ignition and door locks, just need to sort boot lock.

11

Just as an aside, if you can get the barrel of the lock out it’s pretty easy to modify it to work with your key. You all probably know this but if you insert the key then file off the nubs you will have a matched lock/key. Reinstall the lock barrel and Bobs your Uncle.
Cheers,
LLynn

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12

The supplier I used was this one, in Arizona:

https://www.triple-c.com/Jaguar_Replacement_Car_Keys.cfm

You can buy blanks, or get FA, FS or FP NOS keys to suit, from selections. Use the drop down in the window for whichever of these you’re interested, and select you number. The are stamped with the number, which you won’t get from a recut blank, so totally original. Some numbers nla though…

Dave

13

New keys on e-bay , if you have the code around £3 s-l500%5B4%5D

14

Thank you, Dave. I deleted my post after noting your location is in NZ, as I thought you used someone local to you.
Carlo

15

Just to wrap it up, managed to get the barrel out of the boot lock but had to loosen off the cable at the clasp end to give me enough room to pull the pull handle out. then found the pin finally after much looking (50 years of grease). Got the lockshop to change the tumblers to match the ignition key so now one key for everything.
Much drama with getting the cable back into the place at the clasp end as the cable had frayed and did not want to go through - eventually shortened it to get some good cable, at the same time have added a plastic tie threaded though the hole behind the license plate to use as an emergency cable.

I’m now fully equipped to steal any E Type as long as it’s code is showing on the ignition barrel!

Stew

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16

This is what I did with the lock in the boot of my MK2 years ago. Worked like a charm.

Never met my Uncle Bob, though.

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17

Is it still available?

18

Um. Nope. No success there. This Lock cylinder takes a key different enough that the old key will not go in it. :weary:

So, I put the cylinder in the switch and will have a 3 key Jaguar. Call it a security enhancement

19

Welcome to the J-L Forum.

I expect you need to be more specific to get a useful answer. What is it you’re looking for?

20

I used this guy for replacement keys for ignition and doors in mine. Worked great. I have a replacement ignition so a different key, but I believe I have the original keys for the car.
http://www.britishcarkeys.com/original/

21

Wilmot Breeden (UNION) keys were used by Jaguar and many other British car companies. One side of the key says WILMOT BREEDEN, the other showing MADE IN ENGLAND and UNION The key code number was stamped on the face of the ignition switch - typically FP 626 through to FP 750 and FS 876 through to FS 955. FP come in Round and Square head shape only. A single key was supplied for both ignition and doors. The 3.8’s had the round head FP key but towards the end of 3.8 production and for the 4.2’s the square head FS was supplied.
Z7Pzo5x



The door locks, glove box lock, trunk lock will have numbers stamped on the body of the lock (No letters). The correct riginal blanks are very hard to find but you could try Pete Groh: petegroh@aol.com cost is about $25 each if he has the blanks.

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