Kickdown switch

When I hook up micro switch (the cable connected one) it keeps me in 2nd gear all the time. Therefore I know that the wires are connected to the trans. solenoid. When I test that micro switch it seems to be alright.
I am confused and need some help. Thanks

Hi Ivan, You say that when you test the microswitch “It seems to be alright”. Let’s go through this.
Disconnect the two connectors from the switch. Connect your ohmmeter across the switch. It should read open circuit. Put your meter where you can see it from inside the car. Press really hard on the gas pedal. The outer cable of your accelerator should move a small amount, allowing the roller on the microswitch to ride up on a ramp, and the switch should close, and kickdown results. The switch is adjustable by loosening the two fasteners above the switch, and rotating the switch a small amount.
On my car I added a microswitch, mounted to the throttle turntable, and simply moved the wiring to the new switch. No more trying to put my foot through the firewall! Hope that helps a little!

1 Like

Hi Dave:
Thanks for the data and picture of micro (new Location)…I made the
switch…and now my starting motor went dead…
I checked the starter relay and it is fine…so the next step is removal of
the starting motor…
I value your advice…please advise me on the best procedure …

Thanks, (sloth…) Ivan here in Pittsburgh

did you confirm power to starter? switched to 5 speed years ago so not sure, but believe there is a switch to start in park only, microswitch on shifter base? if the starter actually died, I have a good one here just north of Pittsburgh. you can have it free if you pick it up, probably have a spare microswitch too.

Hi: Thanks for the return…I did check that switch… When I turn the
switch to engage the starter I get that deadly clunk and all power shuts
this indicates a direct short in the system…which I assume is dead spot
on starter itself…
I will try the old fashion way of banging on it with a hammer …this
sometimes works…(for a while)


Ivan (sloth)

starter engages or just the selanoid clicking? most vehicles have no power to other circuits in start mode so not necesarally a short. if battery is good and power to starter, then probably time to yank it out.

Bummer! Replacing the starter is one job I have not had to do, (yet) so you’re best bet would be to look over Kirbert’s advice in his Book. Sorry!Dave.

Hi Dave:
I made the new location of the mirco for the kick dowm switch…before I
could test it …my starting motor went bad…I just removed it and it
was not easy… a new one is on the way…
If you have never replaced a starting motor just give me a call…
Thanks for your help…

Ivan (Sloth).

Ivan, that symptom can sometimes occur when main power connections are a little loose or dirty.

Hi Dave:
I value your judgement on my current problem: I have replaced my starter on
my '89 XJS…and used the suggestion to convert from the Lucas solenoid
relay to the Chrysler relay…I made the proper conversion connections. Now
I find there is no connection from the relay to the plus lead on the coil.
I have seen on the old Lucas a statement that says connect C4 to ignition
coil. If I use the Chrysler relay I must disconnect the terminal
marked BAL and run a lead to the coil. Is this OK ??? If so; what is the
purpose of the BAL connection…

Note if this is confusing or an area that you have never conquered I
apologize for the intrusion…

Ivan (Sloth)

Ivan, I have not had to investigate this situation before, but as far as I know, the C4 or Bal terminal is not used on your car. It was used on the older Opus ign. The Bal stands for ballast resistor, which your car won’t have. As long as you are getting 12V at the plus terminal of the coil when ign. is on and also when you are cranking the engine everything should work. Hope that helps!

Hi dave Thanks for the speedy return and info…well buttoned the car up and turned the key and she fired right up Thanks again

Hi Dave:
As I said before: I value your judgement…This is a whopper…I go to
start my xjs and look it is out of gas…meter shows nothing car will not
start…I cannot imagine it is bone dry but it is…I get gas in it and it
starts…whoa… gas coming out of the muffler clamp rear drivers side…(
now I know how many catch on fire and why)…

Some say…injector could be stuck …what is your opinion…

Regards, Ivan

Nice job Dave, great solution to the IRON FOOT SYNDROME. Best, JW