Remember it as - right hand side is left hand thread, left hand side is right hand thread. If your spinners are missing the impressions noting ‘left side’, ’ undo’ etc., then they have been re-chromed, and were buffed within an inch of their lives.
There is a very good reason for this, as it provides a self-tightening action. If you are doing major work removing hubs, make sure you don’t install them on the wrong sides.
Another hint is to have the wheels jacked up when tightening to enable the spinner to centralise the two tapers that seat the wheel.
To get to understand the way these work, try this. After you have tightened the spinners, put a small piece of masking tape across the edge of the spinner and onto the wheel, then draw a line on the tape, parallel to the axle. Now cut the tape along the joint at the edge of the spinner. After you have driven around for a while, check if the two parts of the lines are still matching. If any has moved, it will be in the spinner tightening direction. This will mean it was not tightened enough initially. It will only continue to tighten to its designed limit. If it has moved more than a few millimetres, then there could be a number of reasons why it was thought to be tight enough when it wasn’t.
The engineering principles about the wire wheel attachment design is an interesting one and is a subject in its own right and worth a presentation. It should include the particular points to be observed by the user or someone looking at buying a used wire-wheeled car. These points are not often known by users, but if ignored, can lead to premature wear of the splines on hubs and wheel centres, and on the taper of spinners.