The final hoodsticks assembly BD.5848 in combination with Hood Cloth BD.8267 have (in my case April 1954 at least) a 2BA stud fitted on the angled bracket at the lower end of the Main Stick assembly. Difficult to describe but see the picture below. There is a (chromed) dome nut screwed on each stud.
Do other later XK 120 owners recognize the stud & dome nut? I cannot find any confirmation in whatever literature (not even Urs Schmid).
What could/would be the function of this stud & dome nut? Could it be to create some kind of stop for the angle between the lower Tie Link BD.3327 and the Main Stick, to adjust the the tension on the Hood?
But shouldn’t in that case the Dome nut be at the other side to stop the Tie Link in a certain position?
Agree with the dome nut as a possible protection, but I still don’t see how to adjust this system. The stud sits flush at the side where it meets the “Main Hood Stick” and I’ve no idea how this stud could be turned. Should there be a slot in the end to turn it?
As it is now, it’s absolutely meaningless… See pics.
I had always thought it was an adjustable stopper ie it forced the frame to fold or snap at a certain point and the chrome nut was like a lock nut but pretty looking?
I thought the same, but the way it is mounted (or even designed?) it does nothing at present. See picture: please note that I’m about to have the frame media blasted and painted, so the setscrew used as a hinge pin, is only temporary.
I will have a closer look what happens when I replace the 2 BA stud by a longer 2 BA setscrew that can be adjusted in both directions.
I noticed that an earlier or later “stop” will affect the relative position of the front Canopy Rail in relation to the Windscreen. Maybe that was the initial intention of the Jaguar engineers. A few millimeter of the screw will have a much larger impact on the position of the Canopy Rail at the front…
what are you making your countersunk rivets out of ?
Stainless steel, aluminum or
although a painted frame you can make in steel and powder coat whole frame at one chrome is the problem one?
My frame is fortunately in very good condition, but could use a new layer of paint. After having done most parts of the car, I guess the hood frame deserves this treatment as well.
As my car will not often drive in the rain and stays in a nice (heated) garage, there is no absolute need to go for stainless rivets and aluminium will do.
Had another look at the adjustment of the frame, and fitted a longer 2BA screw to measure the relation between 1 turn of the screw and the change in (relative) position of the front of the hood (Canopy Rail). See pic below.
There is a very large “multiplication factor” of around 12. One full turn of this 2BA screw is 0.032" and leads to moving the Canopy Rail about 3/8" (0.375)…
In fact we talk about the position of the Canopy Rail in relation to the large chromed Pivot Bolt BD.4730 fitted in the side of the body left and right.
As far as I can judge, due to the large “multiplication factor” only a minor adjustment of the “stop” screw is required to get the required result. If there would have been a slot in the present 2BA stud. that would have been enough to get the required change of position of the Canopy Rail: As only 1 mm change of the position of the 2BA screw leads to a 12 mm change in position of the canopy rail. So there definitely is the option to change the position of the canopy rail this way.
Don’t know whether this would also stretch the Hood Cloth a bit more, but maybe others have more experience in this…
Still don’t understand why Jaguar put the 2BA stud in there (with dome nut) but forgot the means to adjust the screw itself.
Final update.
Did a “trial fitting” of the hood/soft top frame, after having corrected the position of the upper windscreen frame to exactly line-up with the front Canopy Rail of the frame.
To achieve that, I had to put at both sides a 1/16" thick shim between the side pillar and the body (where the lower mounting bolt is fitted) to get the top of the frame fully aligned with the Canopy Rail, which now fits perfectly.
The gaps between the “stop” and the Tie Link are different left and right: see pics.
At the LHS there is about 1/8 " space whereas at the RHS there is almost no space left. I assume that the overall tolerance of car body and hood frame leads to this kind of difference left and right.
It is clear for me now that the 2BA studs were (initially?) meant to get the frame better adjusted against the Tie links. Whether Jaguar continued this correction is unclear.
I made a slot in the 2BA stud and can now perfectly adjust the existing stud in the Main Stick against the Tie Link and then turn the dome nut on it to lock that setting.
