Hi again.
The sequence for starting the vehicle is per the operating manual. I appreciate your response.
Rick
Eureka.
Perhaps I have found something…something important.
I researched the Teves III system and how to add fluid. The accumulator needs to be depressurized first by pumping the brakes 25+ times with the ignition switch off. Then cheque the reservoir to see if fluid is warranted… When I chequed the reservoir, I found the fluid had raised to the max fill line, thus it went up a tad. I still wonder where the fluid I have been adding “disappeared” to?
This is a major victory!
Hello Richard - glad you are making progress - does your fluid level return to the correct level, upon finishing the procedure - make sure to heed the ending phase of the fill procedure - Tex Terry,II - 1991 XJS V12 Classic Coupe, 1986 XJS V12 Coupe - sent 10/19/2020 1310hrs. EDT USA.
I believe this is progress. It is raining heavily here and don’t want to take her out for a drive. When I do, and I will repeat the procedure again and write to let you know.
As mentioned, this has been a learning experience and I have people like you to thank for helping me through the process.
Rick
Hello Richard - good call on not driving yet in the rain if you don’t have to - just be patient, to make sure that you do not miss any steps when you test again, and then post here what your findings are so the information will be usable for others- Tex Terry, II - 1991 XJS V12 Classic Coupe, 1986 XJS V12 Coupe - sent 10/19/2020 1505hrs. EDT USA
Since you don’t see any leakage does that mean you got under the car and inspected all the brake connections?
Not at all… I mentioned I have an appointment with my mechanic to do that on Thursday.
Good and bad news.
When my mechanic lifted the vehicle this afternoon, it became apparent both rear calipers were leaking, thus the cause of losing fluid. The pads were soaked as well and need replacing.
Inboard brakes? Be prepared to drop the cage…
Yes, we know all too well.
Do I win a prize for guessing correctly?
I had these done a year ago and got charged through the nose. I spent over 6K on the car and the mechanic will not warranty his work even though it’s on his paperwork I sent you. I posted a complaint on TELP and the Syracuse Better Business Bureau. Now I’m stuck doing it again a year later. The pads are soaked as well thus they need replacing.
You should also consider that you may have oil leaking from the differential output shaft seals as well - it could be both, as well as one or the other. Check your differential fluid level. Same cause - heat transfer from the inboard brakes (rotors, Calipers) to the differential housing + the exhaust pipes being in the same area. That’s why a number of us went to outboard brakes - leakage problems at the rear gone - probably the same reason Jaguar finally went that route also - Finally!
Thank you for that tid-bit. I will mention that to my mechanic when he does the work.
It’s also why I recommend upgrading the inboard brakes to vented rotors:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/InboardBrakeUpgrade.html
When he does the work, make sure he checks the caliper pistons for rust and pits. The other mechanic may have just pushed the pistons back in without checking, leading to torn seals and leaks. There are aftermarket stainless steel pistons available to prevent this from happening again. Rebuilt calipers generally have new pistons, but NONE I’ve found say they put in stainless. So you are probably better off having new stainless pistons put into your existing calipers if they are otherwise ok.
Good morning.
Yes, I will show this e-mail to him when he prepares to work on it.
Thank you……Rick
Please follow up with what your new mechanic finds. It’ll be interesting to see if the former mechanic replaced the rear caliper he said he did or just charged you for it, and if both are leaking or just one.
I can do that. I would love to mention the original mechanic’s shop who overcharges and uses BOCES kiddies to behind very closed and secret doors work on expensive vehicles. I went to YELP in Syracuse and the BBB and both were printed as written. I had a one year, 12,000 mile warranty. I only put 4K miles on the car and 12 September was one year.
When i replaced my rear inboard pads, i made sure to open bleed screw while pushing back caliper pistons. Its amazing how bad the brake fluid can get there. Simple bleeding doesn’t always get it out.
I also chose ceramic pads.