LED Flasher comparison

well. I was hoping to spend more time on this and give a lot of detail. but to be honest at the end of this, well almost end, one more flasher is on its way from the UK, but at this point I dont have much hope for anything positive to say about that one either, judging by what I have found.

My goal was to find a 3 prong flasher that would let me put LED bulbs in all four corners and work like normal. And by work I mean flash correctly and seem reliable. I wasnt even opposed to the flasher with a ground lead. but I wanted to find a flasher relay that didnt require load resistors or re-wiring anything in the car. so for this test its only flashers and bulbs, no add ons to make it work.

For the test, I have a mid 69 Series 2 car that has original wiring and bulbs throughout the dash and signals. I bought the 28 LED red lamps for the rear 1156 and 1157 bulb replacements. I then bought the smaller 18 LED ambers for the front 1156 positions. I bought them from Superbrightleds.com. I understand different LEDs may give different results so take what I am about to say for what its worth, just my experience with what I bought. your results/experience my differ.

I tried to buy a few of the flashers recommended or brought up here on the forum.

here are the four FLASHERS I tried out

on the left is the flasher from Superbrightleds.com. It is NOT pin compatible and will not work as delivered. (if you want to know why or how to make it work, email me)

Second from the left is the NAPA EL-13. It will only work with LEDs in the back. but you must have incandescents up front and in the dash display light. The next issue I have with this design is it uses a transistor to switch the dash light bulb, too much current or a short circuit and you have no dash light. mine no longer works. I purposely hooked up two mini bulbs to see what would happen, and it promptly fried. I suppose this flasher would work with load resistors on the signals, but since mine crapped out so quick I will never know. not impressed.

Third from left is the XKS.com flasher. Again, it will only work reliably with and LED/incandescent combo, and again, incandescent on the dash bulb only. but, it uses the relay to power each bulb, in a wig-wag variation, dash on, signals off and vice versa. It IS a pin compatible three prong drop in relay. no ground wire and no funny business, as long as there is sufficient load. SO, if you want four corners of LEDs, this one is the best bet but you will need load resistors. If you just run LEDs in back and need a good flasher, this one wins.

on the right is the CEC EF-33RL. it is pin compatible, does need a ground and will run all LEDs.
but, it too uses a transistor to power the dash light. after about 3 flashes the dash light now remains onā€¦ ALL THE TIME. I say this relay wins the prize for failing the fastest. makes no sense either, I didnt short it or purposly try to burn it up. was really hoping this one was the answer.

But it has an annoying way of continuing to flash about three times past turning off the signals. ( or in my case clicking the relay )that would have annoyed me anyway.

As for four way flashers. none of the three worked with ALL LEDā€™s and even with incandescents up front the XKS buzzes like a chainsaw even when off. So its not the answer if you go all LED.

Having said all that. what does work is the superbright flasher AFTER I opened it up and re-wired it, tied the lamp and pilot ( dash) lights together and provided a ground pigtail. now it works no matter what. but as pointed out on the other topic, it flashes the same regardless of 1 or 4 bulbs. you would only know one is not working by looking.

The XKS flasher is about the best design right out of the box, they all use what I would consider small relays, so what the life expectancy of the contacts inside them is debatable. They claim up to 25 amps , but for how long. The XKS uses a simple two transistor circuit to time the flashes and the relay handles all the loads. definitely more robust than the Napa/CEC.

So for now, I am going to stick with LEDS in back, incandescents up front and incandescents in the dash. I can use my modified Superbright relay, or the XKS. the other two are soon to be in the landfill. And I can still use a Signal Stat 180 for the four ways as it works with the combo of lights.

Sorry this isnt as detailed as planned, I was really hoping for better results. personally, if I were to recommend a solution, add the load resistors and use the most robust old school flasher you can get to work. if you have to buy a reliable new style flasher, spring for the XKS.com unit.

again, these are just my miscellaneous findings and ramblings. maybe someone has better luck with some of these relays or can offer input on a different brand of LED. but again, my purpose was to compare some relays using drop in LEDS. not something I have to cut and re-wire or modify the car.

Bob F

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I used a Hella in my S11 with LEDs all round. Works well except the original flasher unit produced the audible signal while the new on dosnā€™t. Not really a problem except at present my stalk isnā€™t self cancelling. Not at home at present so canā€™t check what the number was but a google search should bring one up.

One of these?

I would be curious to know its p/n. the one Doug found requires a ground at pin 31. which is the +12v line on the S2 plug. I would require a re-wire to make it work

Given the very common use of LED lights in modern cars, would it not be possible to use something off the shel from one of these current applications? Guess a little searching would need to be done.

Les, The problem is that most of what I have found in hand or by searching is the modern flashers require a separate ground. you will see most new ones are four or five pin.
The E-type had a three pin plug. +12v, on the B or X pin. L for corner lamps and P for the dash. it was a simple design in that as the light bulb was grounded, current passing thru the flasher heated up the bi-metal spring causing the contacts to open, metal cools, contacts closeā€¦ on and on until you un ground the bulbs.

the new ones all have relays controlled by transistors or ICs and ā€œsenseā€ the load to turn on.

I tried off the shelf with the Napa and CECā€¦

what I have that worked is something like the Hella that I re-wired internally and added a ground wire. But experimenting is getting costly and I havenā€™t found a govā€™t grant willing to fund my bootleg operationā€¦ yet.

Bob:

Thanks for going through all that effort. Your results are why I quickly threw in the towel and put in the load equalizers. They use a few more amps than straight LEDs would but they only use those amps intermittently while the turn signals are operating.

Overall, by going to all LEDs externally, Iā€™ve educed the amp draw of the lighting system and increased the visibility of the lights to others. Not a bad tradeoff, IMHO.

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I donā€™t understand why ā€˜professionalā€™ manufacturers find this so difficult. A triple 5 timer, small transistor, a suitable relay, and a few resistors is all it would take. Iā€™ve got more than enough stuff in my electronics junk boxes to cobble something together.
Another summer project.

I was having similar thoughts: real old school is an RC circuit; distant past is a 555 timer. First junk box I went to turned up below - about 36 years old.

I installed the superbright LEDā€™s in the rear, with the original flasher, and all seems good except my dash indicator only flashes once. But I get the audible indicator so Iā€™m happy. While it wold be nice to have the LEDā€™s upfront, I am more concerned about rear visibility, especially on an S1 car with its smaller lights and the LEDā€™s seem to definitely help.

So my advice for anyone considering is buy just the rear taillights and rear turn signals and be done with it. :blush:

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69 Coupe

Excellent topic. In fact, I am waiting for the dash LED kit from XK, but now, wondering if I have made a mistake. ie, front incandescent, back LED etc etc. Iā€™m pretty good at typical auto wring, but not knowledgeable in the ins and out of transistors etc. Can I use the LED kit on order or do I need additional equipment? Ultimately, I would like dash and rear light to be LED, at a minimum!

Mark
Murrieta, Ca.

Bob, really sorry to hear the CEC unit didnā€™t work. It had the correct pin config and a ground. :thinking: But thank you for all the work you did. It has saved all of us a lot of frustration as we try to improve the visibility to others of our cars.

Iā€™m no lectric engineer but I will throw this out just in case it helps someone.

When I was finishing the install of my new wiring harness, I re-used the 5-way connector under the turn signal stalk where all of the turn signals/flashers and I think headlight connections make up. I had all kinds of problems with the flashers and the apparent ā€œfryingā€ of L.E.D. flasher units some of which were sourced locally and a couple of which were sourced from XKā€™s Unlimited (i.e. their kit).

At Marekā€™s direction (thanks Marek!), I carefully ran continuity tests across all of the connections in that 5-way connector and found that I had some amount of continuity across 3 or 4 of the connectors. Turns out this is not a good thing! So I replaced the 50 year old 5-way, purchased/installed (2) of the EF33RL flashers found here:
http://www.cecindustries.com/products/flashers/flasherpage.php?CATEGORY=LED%20FLASHERS
and everything has been perfect since. I have the XKā€™s kits front and rear, a third brake light (L.E.D.) mounted in the rear hatch window, Marekā€™s L.E.D. backup light kit, L.E.D. license plate bulbs, L.E.D. bulbs throughout most all of the dash and instruments and no resistor loads.
One note: When I run the hazard lights and then turn the switch off, the hazard indicator light on the dash continues to blink 3 or 4 times then shuts down.
I couldnā€™t begin to give the theory behind all of that but that is my experience and I hope it helps someone.

Craig

Craig,

the CEC EF33RL is the only consistent flasher in my test that doesnā€™t care what bulbs are where. so for that its a great relay, I am a little miffed as to why the dash light circuit on mine failed. The bulb circuit is not shorted and the light works as intended with any other relay. but from looking at the PCB and reverse engineering it I can say it uses a solid state device to control that light, so MAYBE had I put the LED in the dash first it would still work. as it stands now the dash light just stays on solid while the flashers or turn signals blink as they should. And my CEC continues to ā€œflashā€ 3 or 4 times after its off. which would be ok as a hazard flasher, but after every lane change or left turn it would drive me nuts.
After reading many other car forums about this same topic it appears to me the CEC dash light failure is somewhat common. maybe its not a ā€œfailureā€ as the light comes on. just doesnā€™t blink anymore.

Still waiting for one more relay from AES to arrive. ā€œweā€™ll see what happensā€

Bob F

Mark,

if you ordered the dash kit plus the XKS J17-1120 relay and you are leaving the fronts as incandescent I can tell you from my test that you will be fine.

Bob

Hi Mark,
I installed both the XKā€™s LED dash and rear tail light kits along with 2 EL13 relays from Napa (one for the turn signals and one for the hazard flashers) in my 67 OTS. I kept the incandescent bulbs in the front turn signals.The EL 13ā€™s plug into the existing fixtures and I have had no issues with anything not functioning as intended.
Jay

Thanks Jay and Bob!

I have to really re-read all the posts re: this issue. Is the issue at hand ā€œthe turn signal lightsā€ only, or all the dash lights and the solid running lights??

I ask because IF itā€™s all the dash lights, I will wait until I have a good understanding of all the issues before I install any of the LED dash lights. I certainly donā€™t want to blow out any new LEDā€™s. Sometimes, as I wait for parts or the funds to buy parts, I go back and work on things that still need some finishing touches. I am at that point now and have not run a test on the dash lights because I still have to install my engine harness before I put the engine in. Anyway, I will stay on top of this thread and really appreciate all of the hard work you gentlemen are putting in to this issue!!!

Mark
Murrieta, Ca.

The problem being discussed concerns only the turn signal (and 4-way flasher) bulbs. The other bulbs donā€™t care what kind of flasher you have. They are not affected by it.

Thank you John! Thatā€™s what I thought, but didnā€™t want to blow out new LEDā€™s! Iā€™ll pay close attention because Iā€™m getting close to doing all the lights!

Mark

Mark,
Sometimes when I want to test something but donā€™t have the car battery/harness completely installed, I use a lawnmower starter battery and some test leads to test subsets of the carā€™s electrics. You can use a small fuse (5Amp) to be sure not to fry anything during test.