I just received their e-mail monthly flyer advertising the above. Kits include front turn lights, brake lights and dash kits for what appears to be are versions of E-Type. They also have on sale three prong flasher units mentioned as required with any turn/brake light kit.
Anyone have experience with these/them? Pros/Cons? Good value?
Craig
I put LED brake lights in the 4.2. A remarkable difference. I fiddled the crap out of LED lights on my TD and MGA. Could not get them to work even with 2 different electronic flasher units.
Following…
There was a recent thread about LEDs and flashers. The general consensus was that the flasher from XKs didn’t work properly if I recall. But Im sure someone will confirm or deny. Bfaster found that flashers from AES in the UK worked and were direct plugin replacements without a ground.
I’ve replaced all the exterior bulbs with the exception of the license plate bulbs, and the map and interior bulbs with LEDs from SuperBrights. I bought the bulbs with the highest lumen output that would easily fit in the stock Jaguar housings. All are much brighter than stock.
I think they are a good value from the safety standpoint. It’s hard to tell how XKs prices compare to other retailers since XKs doesn’t publish the lumen output of their bulbs, so it’s difficult to do an apples to apples comparison.
I bought the LED’s from superbright and installed on the rear tail, brake and flashers. They are reasonably priced, are definitely brighter and work fine with the existing flasher. Note I did not install the front LED’s. My thinking is that making the rear more visible was more critical than the front, particularly on a S1 car, with the smaller lights.
Does this include the instruments? I’ve seen a number of posts here that say the bulb replacements don’t do the job and the LED strips are the way to go.
I don’t really want to take my gauges apart and I’m hoping the tech on the simple bulb replacement will catch up.
BrianM
No, I find the gauge lighting sufficient.
John,
Can you recall which of the Superbright 1157 LEDs fitted in the housing for you. I see that they produce 1157s with 18, 27, and 51 LEDs, each presumably brighter than the earlier one in the list. I am considering them for the taillights on my Series 1, but am not sure which ones will fit.
I had to look it up from previous posts. Here is info about all the lights I replaced:
I replaced the front turn signals bulbs with LEDs from SuperBrights. 1156-A18-T. 325 lumens. A significant difference compared to stock bulbs.
Brake/tail lights are: 1157-RHP28-T-2PK
I highly recommend the XKs rear kits. They come on much faster than the bulbs and are much brighter. As shown in the photos they are arrays of bulbs, and totally illuminate the lenses. If you pair that with a mechanical brake switch instead of hydraulic you get instantaneous illumination.
I haven’t bothered with the front kits. I don’t feel a compelling need to inform opposing traffic of my turning plans in a dramatic fashion. They’ll figure it out in due course.
Thanks John. I’ll give them a try.
I have installed the XK’s L.E.D. kits front and rear and, after resolving the flasher issues, am very pleased. If one is interested in “upgrading” the backup lamp I highly recommend this mod offered by Marek:
http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10962&p=88425&hilit=LED#p88425
As a backup lamp it is very bright and greatly improves the ability to backup at night. It is mounted a little low for a third brake light but by wiring in one of those motorcycle flasher devices it does help grab attention while stopping, especially at night. A “fourth” L.E.D.brake light, also wired via the motorcycle flasher, high on the glass of my fhc completes the strategy.
I received the electronic flashers from AES this week. Took less than two weeks from the UK. These are the ones that Bob Faster found to work. I am happy to say they work great with the turn signals. However the Emergency flasher now works on the right side only and remains on whether switched on or off. I swapped flashers and it still does it. I’ll need to sit down and take a look at the switch wiring to see if something got disconnected or what. But for now I can confirm it’ll get the turn signals working
Followup:
I contacted the manufacturer of the units XKs sells. I received their response today . The manufacturer does not know the lumen output of the product. That’s not to say there is anything wrong with the product.
I too have replaced all the light bulbs except the headlights with LED’s from Superbright. Have had them for about 5 years now and no issues. Must have the LED turn signal relay to make turn signals operate.
in prep for taking pics to send to Hagerty to seriously upgrade my valuation, I wanted to button up the underdash panel on the left of the steering column that is out for the above. Hadn’t gotten back to sourcing the problem yet with the flasher. So I decided to see what I could do today. Seems like the switch might be a bit off and dirty. I got it to turn off as it should, by flipping it a few times. I checked the output on pin 3 which controls the RH lights and it showed 12v on and off as it should. Checked pin 1 for the left hand, and it showed nothing. So I figure, what the hell, I’ll jump across them which should provide voltage to both sides through the turn signal switch. It worked as I expected, but it continued to work properly after I pulled the jumper! And the turn signals still work as they did before as well! I have NO idea of what happened or why, but all seems to be fine again. Old Lucas, never can fully understand or underestimate him.
Anyone know which LEDs for the center console instruments that use an an e10? I’d like a green led but didn’t see that on superbright. I changed out the ba7s and they look good.
Thanks!
Larry,
Do the wires on the back of your switch look like this?
I show pins 6 and 3 as the connections to the lamps. thats the Green/red and Green/white wires
pin 1 is the pass thru for the 12 volts to go to the turn signal flasher when the hazards are off. when you turn on the hazards the power is interrupted to the turn flasher as the hazard one then takes over. So, pin 1 should have 12 volts if the hazards are Off and Zero if in the on position.
try swapping the Green/red and Green/white wires to see if the problem changes sides, then you know its the switch
Bob F
Bob
Mine switch looks quite a bit different but is original. The schematic shows pins 1&3 going to the lamps through flasher switch( turn signal). Pin 2 is power from the hazard flasher.pin 4 is not used Pins 5&6 have switched power to the hazard switch. Why I don’t know There is no pass through power from the hazard switch to the flasher switch. All this according to the page 385 of Bentley. Now on 386 there is pass through from pin 5 and switched power into pin 6. But this is for cars after 1E 15980. Mine is 1E 12806
All in all everything is working and I attribute my earlier issues to a dirty original switch
But thanks for the callout and I thank you again for all your research on the various flashers
Indeed you can’t…
