Reference the last IRS picture.
What is the dial assembly on the wall that measures in kN on the left dial?
And is that a drop of lubricant clinging to the drain plug.
Chris;
Nice progress and everything looks well prepped. You will have a great car when it is done.
Tom P; what you are looking at is the rear mount for the seat runner, two out board and two in board. You can see the in board one nicely on the right side behind the cross member.
The inside looks great also.
Regards, Joel.
Makes sense - thanks Joel.
Such high gloss, so many reflections.
What a lot of us do is to attach the piece of hardwood to the cross member of the picture frame with zip ties. In that way, itâs always ready in case you need to jack up the front end for roadside repairs. Not that that will ever happen to you.
The âjacking pieceâ I purchased from XKs is made of oak and is shaped in cross section like an upside down âTâ, such that the narrower part fits up into the recessed channel at bottom of picture frame, and the wider part rests on the two bottom flanges of the picture frame. That shape distributes the entire load along the bottom plate of the picture frame and the two flanges and avoids the chance for the jacking block to slip from its intended location.
As stated above, keep it in place with zip ties so itâs there for an emergency.
Chris
Any comment reference the subframe mount shims, inboard or outboard?
Regards
Pat
Pat, the IRS is lined up to the centre of the body and later on to the front suspension/wheels. If doing this requires shims to be on the outside of the subframe, thatâs where they go. So Iâve been told. Makes sense to me. I donât want to go in any details here how the subframe was mashed by the PO, but I guess anything is possible here.
Itâs part of the equipment for testing the brakes.
I guess I need to figure out how to quote here.
Anyway, todayâs update:
I arrived at the shop late this morning to see thisâŚ
âŚwhich was a great surprise but also a slight disappointment. First I was surprised to see the progress with the wheels on, but then I was disappointed to see that the ones on the rear axle were not mine. A while back I bought a second hand set of wheels with 6" wide rims (or maybe even 6.5", Iâm not sure right now), but it turns out they donât fit on the rear axle, probably because they are outside laced(?). So the workshop had a set of very old curly hub wheels flying around which were in bad shape but are useable for now.
Here are some shots of the front suspension
Dust on the brake disk (Gasp) 
Steering wheel in place and working
I think this will be a very nice looking car
Thanks for stopping by,
Chris, in Germany
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At first I had decided not to use whitewalls but looking at that last image might just change my mind.
Have a look in User Guides and How-Tos, there youâll find:
https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/how-do-i-use-quotes-and-multiple-quotes-in-a-posting/349357/8
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turn on your flash for better pictures.
Home at last!
Actually, sheâs been home since late last week. Over the weekend Iâve been slowly fitting parts like the bonnet locks which werenât on when this picture was taken, which is why the bonnet stands a bit proud.
Hi all!
Iâm wondering if you could help me with a few things here.
Chrome Finisher for Quarter Light Windows Piller: each is fixed to the body with four studs (UFN119/L), oval washers and nuts, which, as it seems, are not available anymore.
Bonnet release Handle Escutcheon: these are fixed to the body with two screws each. I canât find any information at all on them; what size they are, what they look like etc. and how the escutcheons are fitted to the body.
Iâm hoping you can help me with information on these parts.
Otherwise reassembly is progressing nicely, I might post some pictures later in the weekend.
Thanks in advance,
Chris, in Germany
UFN.119/l is a #10 NF hex nut,plain steel, normal height, should be realtively easy to source.
For the Oval washer you could use a 3mm carosserie or large washer and file the sides to make it oval. iirc the washers are fairly thick.
If you havenât already done so, get a selection box of small NF and NC fasteners. If nothing else it makes it easier to identify a thread.
Here is my shop reference book for fasteners. This is a word document that I created years ago which I printed double side A4, then sheared and punched to fit in A5 binders. I have more information in my printed version, such as tapdrill and clearance hole diameters, but apparently Iâve misplaced the latest version of the document.
ShopBook-Fasteners.pdf (79.4 KB)
Andrew, thatâs a great effort, and appropriate to this E-type forum, being representative of the revised system introduced in late 1950s, and in Jaguar terms first applicable from about 1957 onwards, so covers E-types of course. Pre about 1957, the system used was similar, but different, primarily in handling of BSF/BSW fasteners and the now obsolete ANF/ANC fasteners as applicable with XK120/XK140.
A few additions:
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Your c = HEAD FORM. 2 = Thin Hex Head. and 3 = Cheese Head (thatâs as per named by the British Standard, and is a very specific Head form, not the same as the more generic American term Cap Head). (Thus I presume similar comment re your 7= albeit my own personal spread-sheet I have prepared is XK based/period and doesnât include 7) And 6 = Instrument Head (same as sometimes called Raised-Countersunk Head, but Jaguar did call them Instrument Head)
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Your de = Thread Diameter. Happy enough with your sizes, but not your comment underneath table.
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Your g = Drive. Never heard of that interpretation before. Certainly my understanding is the your letter g position denotes the British Standard code for the grade-of-material used in the bolt/setscrew. D = a 45/55 ton yield steel initially, but in the late 1950s was changed to revised coding system where R = 45/55 ton, S = 50/55 ton, T = 55/60, U = 60/65. The letter H was used for an ungraded mild-steel, as used in small diameter setscrews (1/4" and smaller), and L was used in Nuts (being one grade less than the bolt/setscrew it is associated with).
Similar Comments about your NUTS section, but I wont go into detail here, apart from as above, L was deliberately a grade of steel less than the set-screw/bolt, so if overtightened the thread of the nut stripped more readily than damaging the thread of the bolt/setscrew. K = Brass, Q = Manganese Bronze.
Roger
Roger
Roger
Thanks for the crit.
I more or less lifted it from the E spreadsheet, but I canât remember now if the comments are mine or not. I should probably go over it and get it dead nuts though.
What I wanted was a shop reference for bolt identification (and for that itâs sufficient). The actual book I use has all kinds of stuff from various sources but I found I had a tendency to turn it into a personal version of Machineryâs Handbook.
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Chris,
âNot fittingâ is a question for me. You are aware that even with standard factory wheels and proper 185R15 tires there can be some rubbing when the wheels are in full slump mode. This is not harmful, as I can attest from having up to 225/50R15 tires mounted and driving vigorously enough that the rear jumps off the road, and no contact has ever been evident on the tires. Is this contact what your mechanic has seen?
Jerry
Small update here today. After having the car at home for a few months I realised I was (literally) going nowhere, so I decided to take her back to the workshop where she was before. They are experienced and know E-Types.
Sheâs been there for a few months now and although progress is still slow (they work on her for a week every month), theyâve got a lot more done than I could have.
Here are some detail shots to show whatâs been done recently. I will update frequently in the next two weeks, as the wiring looms have arrived from Autosparks (all 12 of them) and they will be installed next.
So here are some randome pictures taken today.
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