I was also able to get the gearbox cover on, but the console rode too high and the instrument panel wouldn’t lower. Had to shave off more foam, fit again, still wouldn’t lower enough, shaved off more foam … eventually succeeded. There are others on J-L who’ve been through the same thing.
Got it…
Mine worked but will keep an eye
Up next more cleaning up
In the for-what-it’s-worth category, Hagerty recognizes the Sereis 1.5 on its valuation site:
Ah. I hadn’t realised you’d already gone to the trouble of refitting the console to check the clearance then removed it again. Forward thinking. It was the last thing I installed of the interior, including the seats. The centre panel wouldn’t lower afterward and it took a bunch of extra fettling.
Carry on.
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Yes, but Hagerty also values the 1967 “Series 1.5” as the same as the 1968 “Series 1.5”, when the only difference between a closed headlight ‘67 and an open headlight ‘67 is, well, the headlights. Everything else is identical, whereas the ‘68 cars, especially the US Federalised cars, feature many changes that are generally regarded as less desirable, like the rocker switches and smog equipment. The ‘67 cars are more desirable and more valuable than the ‘68s in fact. This is one area in which Hagerty is a bit out to lunch.
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Good thing you have pictures to prove that foam was once white because it won’t be for long. 
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That’s funny, again we are building a driver, since these parts are so cheap , if they fit and no oil or gas for now, it makes the ride that much nicer.
The foam doesn’t provide a seal against the gearbox cover. Originally Jaguar used a putty to seal the cover against exhaust fumes and heat leaking past the join. A better solution is to apply duct tape - the real, thin aluminum tape that’s actually used on ducts - to the join after everything is buttoned down and verified. It also lowers the lid another 1/16” or so, which can make a difference. A useful hint I took from a certain Jerry Mouton.
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This is reminding me of all the little projects i need to do before I can put the trans cover and center console back permanently. Too any things have kept everything temporarily thrown on, the dash cover also. One step forward two steps back.
Under seat mats are scrubbed clean
They look great and I might add original batting between the dyna and carpet
Let’s see
Okay guys with 2 weeks in my barn, need some more ideas…
- fuse blocks, In Europe there seems to be some nice updated , cleaner, moisture proof kits.
Any thoughts? - The carbs are going to Curto this week when I get time.
- Anyone have a place for the under carpet padding?
Im doing dnya but in some spots the thick stuff looks right.
The console is at the trimmers so I have some door gaskets coming, PRAY the ones from SNG are good.
They supposedly have the better of the bunch.
GTJOEY1314
THANKS IN ADVANCE.
if you are going with bigger valves and a mild cam you might ask Joe to upgrade to UO needles.
future note- Don’t let your front suspension hang for any length of time. My brand new steering rack mounts began to delaminate. Found out when they tried to align front end. Ended up getting solid mounts.
Thanks Michael, When I tackle the front end,it will be all new from SNG in one shot.
It will be a bit more but I want to see the quality ," Will "has never steered me wrong from SNG and will admit when to use nos over a re pop or a revised new piece.
I should receive the rear hatch rubber today but since its -10 we hold off for a day.
He also has a great staimless exhaust with a more stock sound , so will try that with the stock manifolds to start.
I never liked the exhaust header, it looked great and saved 50 lbs but it was to tinny to my ear.
We shall see.
GTJOEY1314
Learned that lesson yesterday [belatedly].
Earlier I happily schmeared a generous layer of Dyno to seal off the gearbox cover. Yesterday, sure enough, the center console wouldn’t swing open.
After some pondering, I unscrewed the cover, cleared off the excess gunk and forced it down with the following method:
I raised the trailing end of the cover to enable the front end to move down to the factory position [even 1/16" lower].
Then I drilled a pilot hole across both the cover and the bulkhead [pls forgive] and pinned the cover with a rivet. Then it was easy to leverage down the trailing end of the cover, compressing the foam, and screw the cover into the right place.
Trial fit of radio console was successful.
Great stuff…this is what its all about. I used 1/8th insulation on the cover, did you use the 1/4?
The material is great!
gtjoey13134
I think there is also enough variation in these cars where one guy might get way with insulation and another won’t.
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They were assembled by hand check your build date if it was 3 pm on a Friday…GOOD LUCK…Ha Ha Ha
also you could cheat and cut out the top padding like a groove so the radio console fits into.
On another note as we are below zero, I have a replacement oil gage, it works fine but doesn’t have the blue or green in my case filter. Its stark white.
Does it lay in there or is it glued before I pull a gage.
SNG has the strips for the bottom so I can cut one up.
Thanks in advance again.
gtjoey1314
the filters were riveted in from inside. the heat from the bulbs caused them to get hot and fall apart. that and I am sure a few bulbs were forced in and then pushed what was left of it inside the gauge to rattle around in the bottom.
I have not been able to find a source for new plastic filters myself.
Bob F
