Hi Gtjoey,
It’s been really clear that you meet the most important requirement for pulling the engine from an E Type.
With the right attitude, it’s a sure guarantee of fun. I had some myself last week when wonky oil pressure readings led the way.
I am glad that you seem to have the time and resources to do this fairly quickly. Will you be keeping things to a mechanical restoration ? I am thinking now back to a friend who bought a rust free very original very low mile E but it had been sitting in a humid garage for 25 years after the original owner suddenly had a stroke. Some of the cylinders walls had developed a ridge at the piston rings so the engine had to come out. It then developed into a fully disassembled cosmetic restoration too that is still not complete many years and $$ later. He did not want to put a shiny overhauled engine back into the oxidized original engine bay.
David
68 E-type FHC
Thanks guys will do……
The other times I pulled the motor I never had a lift so it was over the picture frame which is pins and needles.
I have my lift which is a 4 post ramp not a 4 post arm. The trick is the height and support of the frames
To take out the reaction plate.
Ill come up with something.
THE BLESSING OF THIS CAR is it is all Califonia original.
What a pleasure almost every bolt and screw comes off with a screw driver or wrench.
All the tray panels are original, Im not going to repaint or replace but leave that patina……
The motor was done 6 years ago and only 4,000 miles, it was fine, but all the rest was falling apart from sitting.
The picture frames are mint except for some flaking paint.
Ill mix original details with new to freshen everything up.
Period hoses and clamps in most visible spots but a high torque starter and a 5 speed to offset it.
I ordered the new cooling firewall pipes from sng, supposedly the best around.
Wiring I will post later, but I just have to do it…
Will post many pictures. Should have the engine bits all stripped off by weeks end.
GTJOEY1314
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from my iPhone
Small things as replacing the spigot with a bolt and washer have been the normal on my last 3 Etypes
please post plenty of pics and measurements for the rest of us going down the same path.
hey , maybe you should write a book !!!
Bob F
You don’t have to actually take out the T-bars then. All you have to do is follow the steps in the book to remove the reaction plate, leaving the bars pinned in place. Then you can use your lift to raise the car up off the engine.
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Hi Erica, I am glad you had a good result. I have been suspicious of such offerings, as my posting indicates.
Erica is right, BUT I might have a better idea.
2x8 planks of wood,across the opening up front supporting jacks on the frame.
I will take pictures and then the car should be bullet proof.
I know about the 3/4 bolt thing but, Im not in the mood to put my pretty face and new Tiger woods teeth in harms way if something KICKS BACK.Im in 20 grand on teeth,im not in the mood.
Plus I still want to replace the whole front end anyway.
Make sense…im still peeling away so I have time to think it out.
gtjoey1314
Well it was only good because I was able to turn a reject frame into a functional one. Had I not been able to, it would have been a $1200 mistake. I’m willing to bet the seller knew it was messed up so he passed it on.
Holy swaybar Robin, that could have gone from a nice n’ flat turn to WTF in an instant. Nice catch.
GOING TO HOME DEPOT AS I THINK I HAVE THE SOLUTION TO A SAFE SUPPORT SET UP FOR REMOVING THE REACTION PLATE AND THEENGINE OUT THEN THE NEW FRONT END.
Sorry for the caps, I’m texting
Will report back tonite.
GTJOEY1314
MOTOR MOUNTS?
Ive used stock rubber forever…anyone go to the upgrade with the metal cover?
Is there really a difference?
Just asking
THANKS.
GTJOEY1314
The rubber ones are fine. Even if they squish too much they’re dirt cheap and easy to swap. I avoided the metal ones because of reports that they don’t compress enough and can result in the lump and bonnet being rudely introduced. I already have a small bonnet pimple from an errant hose clamp knuckle and don’t want more.
The original rubber mounts lasted a very long time on both my E’s, but were worn out and had sagged. I replaced them with the latest and greatest super upgraded mounts from the usuals with the expectation that they would last longer. So far, so good.
New engine mounts might raise the engine slightly, so look out for the bonnet clearance.
Like Erica said…(my first 20 characters)
I used the “uprated” metal ones (then found out they are a standard, dirt cheap industrial mount), and they dont sag, and there wasnt even the slightest hint of bonnet interference.
WAIT WIGGLES, ARE THOSE THE ONES SNG HAS WITH THE METAL CAP ON TOP?
Sorry caps again
gtjoey1314
Yes there is a difference. Get the ones with the metal shield from Welsh.
