Lets build a 1967 e type together

(j limongelli) #124

You know when someone says leave things alone because it works!
But you know better…
I couldn’t get to the fuses as the door wouldn’t drop with the huge boom soeakers🙄
So enjoy
It’s all going and will be recovered by weeks end
Shame as a previous person drilled holes into the side panels🙄

Oh more fumes coming in
New rubber boot coming as well
Ps I was showing the very original wiring as someone jumped a hot fan switch and grounded the switch to the oil gage post!!! B

(j limongelli) #125

All junk
Well at least we found another spot for the fumes coming in!

(Eric) #126

Your 70 likely had a KE transmission. The 66-67 EJ is the close ratio. Big difference in the driving experience.

The UK AC kit (name escapes me) comes in three versions. The only one I’d consider is the one with the evaporator inside the car (in the radio console). The two with the evaporator in the heater box wouldn’t stand a chance in the American Southwest. The one with the evap in the console requires modifications to the vertical console, so you might want to make your decision before putting money in a new one.

Dynamat is for sound attenuation and is a very poor heat barrier. Some use Coolmat. I elected to make a full span heat deflector for above the exhaust system and a thermal tunnel shield. Plan for this when you pull the engine. Here are my solutions for heat control.

heat%20shield heat%20shields


(j limongelli) #127

Nice work…….your nuts like me!
When I get past these easy cosmetics, Im probably going t5 for the 5 speed.
Lets see and yes the same shielding…
The cool mat and dynamat make a HUGE differene on long travels.
What is the big shield made out of?
Oh and the reason why I still love you is because of your best friend… looks like my guy who is 15 years old

(j limongelli) #128

What stereo speakers will fit in the original spot that are good but the magnet is small in the back.

(Eric) #129

Nothing nuts about it. If you want an aftermarket AC to work well, you have to give it some help. The heat shield is fabricated from 1/4" aluminum honeycomb (Shapiro Metal Supply). Very stiff, easy to shape with a Dremel. The polished ceramic coating on virtually everything(maybe a little crazy) is from a local coatings specialist who works with the offshore oil industry (it’s not powder coating). He also did the exhaust manifolds. The transmission pad is a sandwhich of Mylar bubble sheet (bottom layer) and thin Dyna-pad. ( The factory foam over the gearbox is a bad joke). The lower heat barrier inside the transmission cover is made from leftovers…and it absolutely shuts off hot air leakage around the shifter.

Rufus (the Dufus) loves riding in the pickup with his head hanging out the window and those floppy ears trailing in the slip stream. He’s not allowed in the Jaguar…yet.

(j limongelli) #130

How old, its funny they still need a leash, like where are they going to go…

(Eric) #131

Rufus is three. About a year ago I left him in the truck when I went into the hardware store. I slipped the end of his leash over the floor shifter to keep him from jumping out the window (it was hot outside). The truck was parked on an incline and I left it in first gear (no parking brake). As I’m checking out with my weekly Jaguar hardware fix, a neighbor walks into the store and says “Hey, Rufus just drove off with your truck”. I said B.S. and he said no, he really just took off. I walked over to the door and sure enough, there was Rufus the Dufus rolling backwards across the parking lot with his paws up on the wheel and a big smile on his face. Rufus is known as the Dude in our marina.

(j limongelli) #132

I know the feeling!

(Joe King) #133

Jags & Dogs might be an interesting new topic. My dog beat my wife for first ride when I took delivery of my E-Type 17 years ago.

(69 FHC ) #134

I made my own console and used these. Double check your console. These require a 4-15/16" diameter mounting hole.

Disassemble and paint the grills and surrounds and they look somewhat like the originals.

(j limongelli) #135

I like it…….
I found a KENWOOD radio with no cd player with color adjusting face.
One turning knob and I phone, usb port, blue tooth and mic.
Its only 4 inches deep.
I might want to retian the original speaker grills , I found a retro pair of speakers with only 1.50 depth.
If they sound good I will keep them, If not im going down your path with the overlay speakers!

(j limongelli) #136

Ground wire question
As in going to use a proper morose cut off switch
Not the cheaply but the big cutoff
My ground cable goes to the block not the firewall
Either works was there a change along the way?
Any drawback to the block?

(Ole Würtz) #137

By far your major current draw is your starter, so for that reason it’s a good thing to have the ground cable going to the block directly. Then with a good quality ground strap to the chassis/subframe. I have in addition also fittet a ground strap between the frame and the bonnet as well as a heavy gauge feeder 12V for the headlight relays.
Cheers … Ole

(j limongelli) #138

Thank you……
I ground EVERYTHING, somehow I never have an issue.
Hit the behive with wiring, my loom looks like it was replaced but I don’t like the placement between the lighter can and key switch.
Will try to reroute in time……

(j limongelli) #139

I’m going to insulate the tunnel and new hold downs
Boot coming
Anyone see this huge foam insulation before?

(Paul Wigton) #140

Clean and install, on the inside, reflective heat blanket, and then put the foam block in, on top of the gearbox (you have what appears to be a homemade version of the original foam.).

(j limongelli) #141

Thanks wiggles, All my etypes I never had the foam, following eric64, will foil underneath then a new foam .
Ive got the dynaliner for on top.
Annnnd we move on.

(Doug) #142

That foam looks exactly like the foam I removed from my '68 except my foam was completely soaked with oil (from a leaking rear main, also known as rust protection).

(Bob Faster) #143

I was just about to type that exact same line!!!