Count me in on the ditto. Plan on cleaning mine and reusing.
I agree with ALL of you
Reproduction parts are a 90 percent chance they are junk!
As usual for that price if it’s no good it goes in the pile
Lately I never throw out original anything!
Look at the progress
My wife did the insulation
I rewired the choke light , look at the hack job before it🙄
Once you ground home runs the car is soooo much better
I haven’t looked at the diagram yet
Is the light switch grounded to the center dash or a wire from the switch
If not I’ll run a ground to the body like everything else
Enjoy my friends, enjoy
Tons more parts tomorrow!
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I ground the crap out of everything British
Never have an issue
No stainless on the ground bolts
Unfortunately, I had no original to put back in place. I ordered the SNG replacement, but it was incredibly difficult to put into place. After much consternation I was finally able to do it, but geez. I would have cleaned up the original and used it if I had one.
As for the heat shield insulation that goes under the floor and inside the gearbox tunnel I used what @64etype, Eric, used. It was DEI heat shield custom fitted using cardboard pieces I custom cut and used to trace a patter on the product: http://designengineering.com/floor-tunnel-shield-ii-extreme-heat-shield/
–Drew
I will do the same when I pull the engine and tranny, for now its just cleaning up 50 years of lose ends.
Just the rubber shift boot alone keeps the stink out.
Ive had this car 10 days…….
Its very relaxing/cursing and fun all at the same time.
gtjoey1314
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Is this following in the “it should be too pretty to hide” motif, or were you just trying to find some busy work for your wife? I don’t think I’ve ever seen a trimmed out trans tunnel cover 
I don’t think it is trimmed. Looks like some sort of dynamat clone type product?
It is dynamat
The thin version just for these jobs
I can’t post a video but if I could you would see a huge sound difference from bare metal to the covering
Gtjoey1314
Ah I see. Have you done a trial fit? The extra thickness where it wraps around the bottom might cause it to sit high and interfere with the center console. Mine wouldn’t allow for any material between the cover and the tunnel. I had to trim everything around the edge. You can always just loosen the fabric and let it hang down to cover the seam.
Yes it’s the new
3/8ths spongy it’s paper thin but just kills vibration and noise
I’m using it because of the speakers and console to follow
No echo or vibration
Also it’s not the heavy black dum dum backing it’s peel and stick
Compared to nothing it’s great
When you pull the drivetrain
All else will be covered from underneath!
Enjoy
Gtjoey1314
Does anyone have an opinion on using the spray on sound and heat shields (lizard skin etc,) vs. the dynamat type products. It seems it would be an easie4 way to get good complete coverage when doing a restoration.it seems each product claims to be the most effective. Anyone have actual experience?
The SNG replacement needs fettling in order to fit. As received it’s much too bulky, but it’s far easier to remove material than to add it. Trial fit, cut some material away, trial fit, cut a bit more, repeat and repeat again till you get it right.
My foam insulation was a sopping, disintegrating mess. I turfed it without regret. I shaved and shaped the block of foam from SNG to fit with an electric carving knife. Nothing else will do the job as precisely.
Really, gents, mechanical spares should be plug and play but everything else you should expect will need fettling. Part of the restoration gig.
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I believe they call it Dyna liner…comes in various thicknesses. They also have a product called Dyna pad, with is an almost inch thick multi layered (and very heavy) pad for applications such as the floor in my old pickup. This stuff has been around for years.
Geoff, The Dynamat works!
Starting with my street rods 20 years ago , with factory rebuilds it makes a BIG difference.
The Etype is different as everything is compact.
The old stuff was very heavy and you couldn’t peel it back up.
I like the liner instead of the mat for this car as its completely flexible and spongy.
I wish I could post a video , you would see a big difference.
As Nick has said, spray ons and all the rest can become a BIG mess.
For the cost and the flexability , it makes a big difference and the original batting and rug goes right over it.
The old silver would stick out like a soar thumb if not covered all the way.
GTJOEY1314
I used it as well. A thin (1/4" & 1/2") is what I used on top of the Dynamat heat barrier sound deadning instead of the factory hardura for added sound deadning and padding.
1/2" on the floors.
1/4" on the tunnel and other curved areas.
I have lizzard skin in the boot area below the plywood. A subjective opinion is that it’s just as good. An upside is that it’s now painted in body color and looks factory.
I too went the Dynamat route. these product choices always start a debate on whats best, and I am not here to claim one over the other, but I will say, adding anything makes a HUGE improvement. for me it also had the effect of sealing all the little cracks and crevices the fumes were coming thru, I put the stuff right over the rubber plugs, and the metal service door over on pass footwell side. I figure If I have to get in one I will cut the dynamat then and only if I have to.
the only difference is I put the dynamant on the underside of the trans tunnel cover.
I do pity the guy that tries to remove all this stuff someday…
also, somewhere along production Dynamat seems to have changed the color scheme, now its mostly black with silver logos, used to be the opposite.
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That’s why I put my stuff on the inside of the tunnel cover. It was the only way I could get the console and radio console to fit properly; anything on the interior side caused too much interference. And I think having the shiny side of the mat (I used Eastwood’s X-Mat) toward the heat source probably does a bit more for keeping the heat out of the interior of the car.
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I did similar, glued koolmat to the underside, leaving 3/4 or so bare at the edges. The biggest issue with mine is that some DPO ripped off the flat edging on the tower where the rubber gaiter is supposed to be secured The remaining edge is all jagged and I don’t have the welding savvy to put it back the way it should be. My foam block just has a small hole for the lever so it catches most of the hot air.