Lets build a 1967 e type together

If your the average 6 foot 195/200 pound American male like me:grinning:
Driving LONG distance, your lower back and thong can get real hot on a long drive with the exhaust under your ASK.
It makes a huge difference internally.
Until the drivetrain comes out, this makes a big difference.
P.S. I’m going with thinner stick on then using original batting and rug so I don’t run into what happened with Erica.
My old series 2 had dyna everywhere with the real thick stuff back in the day, IT KILLED, heat and noise but the entire interior was all bulked up.
I felt like I was in a new car, you couldn’t breathe…
Great stuff.
Ive got rear hatch rubber samples coming.
Repo rubber, Ahhhh what a treat.
GTJOEY1314

Know someone there with a MIG? I’m sure they’d stitch it up for Torchy’s…:wink:

THAT is an uncomfortable image to carry with me, now…!!

:joy: :rofl: :sweat_smile:

I know I’ve said this before, but taking the value of your car from Scottsdale results Is a fool’s game.

About 7-8 years ago, I sold a highly-original, but slightly shabby ‘65 MGB, and struggled to get $7k for it. The guy who bought it did a quick ebay flip on it with a nasty respray, Chinese repro bumpers, and new chrome wire wheels. Fast forward a couple of years, and it showed up at an RM Scottsdale Auction with a cock & bull story about it being an original 30,000 mile car…more like 230,000.

It sold for $25k + buyer’s premium…back on planet earth, that was maybe a $9k to a typical MGB enthusiast, and that was if you could find someone willing to look past the green haze of overspray that covered the engine compartment, undercarriage, exhaust system, and leaf springs.

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Not to bad for an old guy?
The 720s helps too😀

maybe so, but this made a giant improvement, now I am not trying to get 2019 luxury out of a 50 year old car. but it cut way back on heat and noise for for my liking. If I ever pull the motor I will add something like Geo ( and you?) to the underside of the trans tunnel just because it will be easy to do at that time. but until then I am quite happy with the results.
Bob

Just by chance, I stumbled across a pic of the car you mentioned on Instagram…it needed a jump start to get it across the block :joy:

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Two things…
I purposely did not cover the top of the shift cover until I got the laser gun
There is a 4 degrees difference from the insulated to non insulated part when I left it in the garage with the heater on!


I couldn’t hold it long enough but it dropped to 68 degrees

The new insulation came in
I’m guessing I’m cutting out for the shifter
It is the SAME thickness as my old one
Let’s see
Gtjoey1314

I was actually at BJ yesterday and today, and saw this car go across the block yesterday. I guess that the charger didn’t solve the issue in the staging area, as they ended up pushing it onto the stage! The bidding was pretty lame for a while until he managed to start it to drive off, and then it picked up, and went to $100K + 10% commission, which seemed a bit rich. The description claimed a blueprinted engine with 373hp! The only external evidence of any change from stock was pancake air filters. Maybe it had the famous K&Ns that double the HP…:grinning:

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Don’t EVEN get me started…

If K&Ns teally doubled the output? It’d be 530…:joy::grimacing::stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

I happened to see a Red OTS last night that they claimed was a 68 Series 1. complete with covered headlights AND Series 2 rocker switches, no shots of the engine and even Mike Joy was scratching his head over the S1 designation, he said, I thought S1 ended in 67. yet it sold for 100K as well…

its lot 1028.1 found pics online, clearly a S2 engine. sold at $110K… crazy money

Bob,

Yes. I was there for that one too, and I was the losing bidder of the final 2 left standing. The TV producer seemed to think that I’d won, so I was the one on camera at the end until they finally switched to the real winner (who looked rather disappointed he’d won!). I thought I’d try BJ this year as they have so few European cars, they don’t attract a lot of buyers, and in the results for them have seemed on the low side. Of course, without seeing the individual cars up close, who knows if the results were low…?

It was a Series 1.5 but with covered headlights. Maybe a Series 1 bonnet switch, or someone added the covers sometime in the past - it is quite common. Apparently they had trouble opening the bonnet on stage, but I think that was more to do with the BJ staff than the car. It opened fine earlier in the staging lane, but a friend of the owner was driving then, and switched before they went on stage.

As for it being “crazy money”, this is how I looked at it. For a '68 Series 1.5 OTS Hagerty rates a #3 at $75K and a #2 at $133K. Based on the photos and inspecting it prior to the auction I rated it somewhere between the two. It had some nice additions, include triple SUs, new radiator, new brakes, fully rebuild suspension, electronic ignition etc. Paint was very nice, but a couple of chips and dings. Against that, the tires looked good, but were too old, the body failed the fridge-magnet test in a couple of places (though not in the scary areas - probably just a little filler to get the profile right between the bonnet and door), and a few other things I can’t remember now. Prior to the drive to the staging area I thought that $110K would be about right. That would be a bid of $100 + 10% commission. On the drive to, and in the staging area, I saw a few things that made me drop my valuation by $5-$10K. I bid to $95K and the top bid was $100K. Looking back at the photos I’m now rather depressed that I didn’t get it, but who knows whether one more bid would have done it? If I’d got it, I’d probably be having buyer’s remorse now about paying too much…

I love my Series 2 OTS, but have always pined for a the cleaner lines of a Series 1. I will keep looking, but maybe it will have to remain a dream for me… My Series 2 just heaved a sigh of relief, as she gets to stay in my cozy garage. She knows that if I get a Series 1, she will probably be sold to help pay for it!

-David

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hope you didnt take that wrong, I meant crazy in a good way, I am glad to see some of these cars commanding high bids. I am one of the guilty few who only see these cars for the few minutes they are on TV, if they even get to TV. True I could search the BJ website and look at the few pics they post, but its not like BaT where the norm is now pictures of cobwebs on unturned bottom bolts etc. ( and thats a good thing too)

the red car presented well and looked really nice, only us Jag nuts pick up on the discrepancies of series numbers. I will give Mike Joy credit for knowing as much as he does about Jags considering it seems from TV that almost everything crossing that block is a camaro, corvette or mustang, throw in a GM pickup here and there.

I am still amazed at the bids on all the E-types I have seen so far, but in a good way. I will never be a seller and probably never a buyer. but its nice knowing the values are there.

Bob

To clarify, 1968 E-types are officially Series 1 cars, more specifically “open headlight variant Series 1” cars, as Jaguar themselves designated them. All JHT heritage certificates issued for the 1968 model year omit the qualifier, stating only that the cars are Series 1. The “Series-One-And-A-Half” moniker was bestowed on open headlight cars produced after mid-January 1967 by Jaguar enthusiasts, resisted up until recently and now recognised grudgingly by Jaguar. The JCNA “Series-One-And-A-Quarter” label still not recognised. Also, it’s not that Series 1.5 cars have Series 2 rocker switches but the other way round.

It’s fair to say many Series 1.25s and 1.5s have had headlight conversions. Remember that light blue E Prince Harry and Meaghan Markle drove away in after their nuptials? Jaguar calls it a 1968 Series 1.5 though it features covered headlights, so even the original rationale for the 1.5 designation has gone out the window. Of course, that particular car was converted to electric, too, so it seems whatever you want to call your ‘68 is cool.

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E Type Series 1.5e?

:slight_smile:

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Ok first up was the insulation
Guys it was perfect once I cut my 2x2 inch hole and tapered the foam around the shift knob it was perfect and perfect thickness


Also since they don’t supply the flat screws
Some were 10 mm so I did them all in 10mm
With cad or stainless washers
It’s so tight and clean
Notice the shift boot, all iscwell!
Gtjoey1314

You haven’t tried yet to lower the centre dash after fitting the console, Joe. That’s the true test. Even 1/8” too high and it won’t clear.

The cover is locked down
The dynamat is 1/8th
I fit it already it was fine
I was talking about the foam under the cover
But I understand your thought
The old silver dynasty would be very bulky
Thank you

Next
Moving on to removing the seat for more insulation the emergency light was broken
A fun job
New switch and adjusted it works fine

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