Lets build a 1967 e type together


(Eric) #164

I believe they call it Dyna liner…comes in various thicknesses. They also have a product called Dyna pad, with is an almost inch thick multi layered (and very heavy) pad for applications such as the floor in my old pickup. This stuff has been around for years.


(j limongelli) #165

Geoff, The Dynamat works!
Starting with my street rods 20 years ago , with factory rebuilds it makes a BIG difference.
The Etype is different as everything is compact.
The old stuff was very heavy and you couldn’t peel it back up.
I like the liner instead of the mat for this car as its completely flexible and spongy.
I wish I could post a video , you would see a big difference.
As Nick has said, spray ons and all the rest can become a BIG mess.
For the cost and the flexability , it makes a big difference and the original batting and rug goes right over it.
The old silver would stick out like a soar thumb if not covered all the way.
GTJOEY1314


(Ole Würtz) #166

I used it as well. A thin (1/4" & 1/2") is what I used on top of the Dynamat heat barrier sound deadning instead of the factory hardura for added sound deadning and padding.
1/2" on the floors.
1/4" on the tunnel and other curved areas.


(Ole Würtz) #167

I have lizzard skin in the boot area below the plywood. A subjective opinion is that it’s just as good. An upside is that it’s now painted in body color and looks factory.


(Bob Faster) #168

I too went the Dynamat route. these product choices always start a debate on whats best, and I am not here to claim one over the other, but I will say, adding anything makes a HUGE improvement. for me it also had the effect of sealing all the little cracks and crevices the fumes were coming thru, I put the stuff right over the rubber plugs, and the metal service door over on pass footwell side. I figure If I have to get in one I will cut the dynamat then and only if I have to.
the only difference is I put the dynamant on the underside of the trans tunnel cover.

I do pity the guy that tries to remove all this stuff someday…

also, somewhere along production Dynamat seems to have changed the color scheme, now its mostly black with silver logos, used to be the opposite.


(69 FHC ) #169

That’s why I put my stuff on the inside of the tunnel cover. It was the only way I could get the console and radio console to fit properly; anything on the interior side caused too much interference. And I think having the shiny side of the mat (I used Eastwood’s X-Mat) toward the heat source probably does a bit more for keeping the heat out of the interior of the car.


(Erica Moss) #170

I did similar, glued koolmat to the underside, leaving 3/4 or so bare at the edges. The biggest issue with mine is that some DPO ripped off the flat edging on the tower where the rubber gaiter is supposed to be secured The remaining edge is all jagged and I don’t have the welding savvy to put it back the way it should be. My foam block just has a small hole for the lever so it catches most of the hot air.


(j limongelli) #171

If your the average 6 foot 195/200 pound American male like me:grinning:
Driving LONG distance, your lower back and thong can get real hot on a long drive with the exhaust under your ASK.
It makes a huge difference internally.
Until the drivetrain comes out, this makes a big difference.
P.S. I’m going with thinner stick on then using original batting and rug so I don’t run into what happened with Erica.
My old series 2 had dyna everywhere with the real thick stuff back in the day, IT KILLED, heat and noise but the entire interior was all bulked up.
I felt like I was in a new car, you couldn’t breathe…
Great stuff.
Ive got rear hatch rubber samples coming.
Repo rubber, Ahhhh what a treat.
GTJOEY1314


(Paul Wigton) #172

Know someone there with a MIG? I’m sure they’d stitch it up for Torchy’s…:wink:


(Paul Wigton) #173

THAT is an uncomfortable image to carry with me, now…!!

:joy: :rofl: :sweat_smile:


(Ben E) #174

I know I’ve said this before, but taking the value of your car from Scottsdale results Is a fool’s game.

About 7-8 years ago, I sold a highly-original, but slightly shabby ‘65 MGB, and struggled to get $7k for it. The guy who bought it did a quick ebay flip on it with a nasty respray, Chinese repro bumpers, and new chrome wire wheels. Fast forward a couple of years, and it showed up at an RM Scottsdale Auction with a cock & bull story about it being an original 30,000 mile car…more like 230,000.

It sold for $25k + buyer’s premium…back on planet earth, that was maybe a $9k to a typical MGB enthusiast, and that was if you could find someone willing to look past the green haze of overspray that covered the engine compartment, undercarriage, exhaust system, and leaf springs.


(j limongelli) #175


Not to bad for an old guy?
The 720s helps too😀


(Bob Faster) #176

maybe so, but this made a giant improvement, now I am not trying to get 2019 luxury out of a 50 year old car. but it cut way back on heat and noise for for my liking. If I ever pull the motor I will add something like Geo ( and you?) to the underside of the trans tunnel just because it will be easy to do at that time. but until then I am quite happy with the results.
Bob


(Ben E) #177

Just by chance, I stumbled across a pic of the car you mentioned on Instagram…it needed a jump start to get it across the block :joy:


(j limongelli) #178

Two things…
I purposely did not cover the top of the shift cover until I got the laser gun
There is a 4 degrees difference from the insulated to non insulated part when I left it in the garage with the heater on!


I couldn’t hold it long enough but it dropped to 68 degrees


(j limongelli) #179

The new insulation came in
I’m guessing I’m cutting out for the shifter
It is the SAME thickness as my old one
Let’s see
Gtjoey1314


(David Langley) #180

I was actually at BJ yesterday and today, and saw this car go across the block yesterday. I guess that the charger didn’t solve the issue in the staging area, as they ended up pushing it onto the stage! The bidding was pretty lame for a while until he managed to start it to drive off, and then it picked up, and went to $100K + 10% commission, which seemed a bit rich. The description claimed a blueprinted engine with 373hp! The only external evidence of any change from stock was pancake air filters. Maybe it had the famous K&Ns that double the HP…:grinning:


(Paul Wigton) #181

Don’t EVEN get me started…

If K&Ns teally doubled the output? It’d be 530…:joy::grimacing::stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:


(Bob Faster) #182

I happened to see a Red OTS last night that they claimed was a 68 Series 1. complete with covered headlights AND Series 2 rocker switches, no shots of the engine and even Mike Joy was scratching his head over the S1 designation, he said, I thought S1 ended in 67. yet it sold for 100K as well…

its lot 1028.1 found pics online, clearly a S2 engine. sold at $110K… crazy money


(David Langley) #183

Bob,

Yes. I was there for that one too, and I was the losing bidder of the final 2 left standing. The TV producer seemed to think that I’d won, so I was the one on camera at the end until they finally switched to the real winner (who looked rather disappointed he’d won!). I thought I’d try BJ this year as they have so few European cars, they don’t attract a lot of buyers, and in the results for them have seemed on the low side. Of course, without seeing the individual cars up close, who knows if the results were low…?

It was a Series 1.5 but with covered headlights. Maybe a Series 1 bonnet switch, or someone added the covers sometime in the past - it is quite common. Apparently they had trouble opening the bonnet on stage, but I think that was more to do with the BJ staff than the car. It opened fine earlier in the staging lane, but a friend of the owner was driving then, and switched before they went on stage.

As for it being “crazy money”, this is how I looked at it. For a '68 Series 1.5 OTS Hagerty rates a #3 at $75K and a #2 at $133K. Based on the photos and inspecting it prior to the auction I rated it somewhere between the two. It had some nice additions, include triple SUs, new radiator, new brakes, fully rebuild suspension, electronic ignition etc. Paint was very nice, but a couple of chips and dings. Against that, the tires looked good, but were too old, the body failed the fridge-magnet test in a couple of places (though not in the scary areas - probably just a little filler to get the profile right between the bonnet and door), and a few other things I can’t remember now. Prior to the drive to the staging area I thought that $110K would be about right. That would be a bid of $100 + 10% commission. On the drive to, and in the staging area, I saw a few things that made me drop my valuation by $5-$10K. I bid to $95K and the top bid was $100K. Looking back at the photos I’m now rather depressed that I didn’t get it, but who knows whether one more bid would have done it? If I’d got it, I’d probably be having buyer’s remorse now about paying too much…

I love my Series 2 OTS, but have always pined for a the cleaner lines of a Series 1. I will keep looking, but maybe it will have to remain a dream for me… My Series 2 just heaved a sigh of relief, as she gets to stay in my cozy garage. She knows that if I get a Series 1, she will probably be sold to help pay for it!

-David