Hi all,
Could anyone offer advice on a proper linkage set up for the triple webers?
It would be a non issue with RHD car but even with 2 return springs, my linkage has many maneuvers to go through to move freely.
If anyone has experience with their set up would be greatly appreciated!
I tried to angle levers more on the firewall which did seem to help a bit but it sometimes momentarily jams up.
Personally I’d be removing the whole stock linkage on the firewall and running with a cable.
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A good suggestion. I may do cable 
Here is photo of cable set up on my Cosworth Vega. Maybe you could make a similar cable bracket also using a cam cover and manifold stud as the anchor points ? I loosened the fuel line and swung it out of the way but this is an older photo and now have the fuel line routed similar to your photo.
David
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That was my though too. Simplify,
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A down and dirty Weber cable setup, that worked!..some pics from my '68 2+2 when it had triple 45DCOE’s…
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O.K. James, this is going to take some time. You’ll see that 1st thing we did was
get a 1/4” thick & 1 3/8” wide piece of flat steel stock & cut it 18 3/4” long. Each
carb has a flat spot on the left rear. We drilled into & tapped each one & drilled holes in the steel bar to accept the 3 Allen head bolts that hold the steel down. Why? B/C all these linkage kits use only 2 eyelets to hold the rod & from the center of the carb closest to the firewall there’s 5” of shaft that has no support & it passes through the last lever that activates the linkage on that last carb. Too much flex in that rod there.
We took S.S. Splined linkage rods & cut & welded them so the splines line up W/ each carburetor’s linkage. You can see the welds on the shaft to the left of the levers on front & center carbs. Center also holds lever for return spring. The levers are also splined. the farthest one back isn’t touched & has one Allen head bolt to tighten it. The other 2
are cut on an angle @ the front, so it’s 2 pieces b/c they won’t slide over the smooth parts of the shaft. So we drilled & tapped & put in a second bolt. Same W/return spring lever. Close up picture included.
You can buy this stuff at the regulars like Speedway. Places that have parts/linkage/etc for racing engines. Or you can use the smooth rod & levers that you have now. I just don’t like them, but I used them for many years. Will save a lot of time, but isn’t this why you bought an E-type?
You can see I now have 4 supports on the rod. Farthest back, a roller bearing eyelet right by the actuating lever from the gas pedal linkage. one more in the middle & the 2 original aluminum eyelets, part of the
manifold. I think you have similar.
All the gas pedal linkage & mechanism @ the firewall & rod to carbs
are stock. This is a series 2, 4.2, FHC.
There is absolutely no binding, tight spots, slow return- nothing. SO
smooth & all 3 carbs perfectly synchronized. A little time consuming to
build but the performance, no Weber “pops” & peace of mind, well worth it.
If all goes well, pictures will be attached.
Regards,
Michael Caro
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P.S. I noticed that you have a cable running across carbs- probably for
the mis-named “chokes”…they’re really “activators” & are not necessary. I took mine completely off. You’ve got 6 barrels. Need only
to depress the gas pedal once all the way down & lift foot off before hitting starter.
Will put in plenty of gas.
Michael
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I wish I looked closely at yours first. Seems you have a 3.8 & a different manifold.
All you have to do is unscrew the eyelets & run the steel plate across the 2 flat
spots on the manifold. Screw your original 2 eyelets through the plate & into the manifold. add another eyelet @ the center carb & 1 more where the activating pedal linkage lever is. Also get that return spring off the pedal lever.
Probably the major contributor to your binding problem.
Good luck.
Michael
Thank you Michael and Les. Some great set ups. I may very well mimic something similar. Definitely want a smooth throttle. I am so happy with the Weber’s and tuning and adjusting them doesn’t seem too bad. They seem to stay fairly well in tune as well. I have read the opposite. I suppose it depends on how fresh the carbs are too.
Michael, my engine is a 68’ 4.2. It’s installed in my 65 car.
James I had a set for sale on the classifieds here at:[SOLD] Weber carbs for E Type you might take a look at the photos - it shows what I did to hook them up to the existing linkage.
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Thank you Terry very nice. Do you miss your old Weber’s? Those books look very useful too.
Miss them - that’s not capable of a simple answer. In some ways, but they were aggravating in other ways. The autocrosses and other car stuff has disappeared around here, and not just because of Covid, so i don’t have as much to do with the carsd as
I used to. The throttle system I used is very effective, and if i can answer any questions about it let me know.
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James,
Go to GTJoeys “Let’s build a 67 e-type together” link. Michael Frank’s reference & link to B. Terry’s web site, thread # 3926. Click on link & then the red line.
Check out the linkage he builds for Weber’s. Looks like instead of the
straight horizontal steel bar I tapped into my carbs he used a 90 degree
aluminum bar, tapped & screwed it into the carbs like I did my flat bar, & placed the roller eyelets horizontally instead of vertically like mine. I think you already have the same levers & bar he used. Beautiful stuff. Maybe he’ll even sell you the additional parts you need. He’s famous & sophisticated.
I’m very proud of what I thought of on my own & my racing friends & fabricators who refined the image & built the pieces. Not easy to do.
Good luck. Let me know if you contact him & if he helps you. Seems like it could be a relatively smooth transition for you. There’s nothing like a smooth, slippery, no bind linkage for Weber’s. All 3 carbs need perfect synchronization- for starters. After that, buy the books Terry -In line 6- mentioned & if you don’t “get it” contact Wiggles.
Michael Caro
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Thanks Michael,
I bought some additional linkage I may try to rig up. Though, I spoke w someone in CA this afternoon and he seemed to think my angles just needed to be adjusted.
Either way, very much appreciate everyone’s help and I hope up have it sorted out this week.
I think one of those Monza flip oil caps’d look pretty awesome in that engine bay…
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It’s not done getting the full treatment yet. Just have to finish sorting out a few things but you would approve. 
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Great, James.
I have an i-pad. When I upload pics to send I click on the 1st pic I want to send & the
next, & next. Then upload,etc. But they are stacked & touching each other.
How do you send W/a space between?
Michael
I’m actually not too sure. You can see my photos also touch one another. Wigs wat you think?
Michael can you confirm that post thread number on gt joeys thread? I could not find and it’s the longest thread in the history of this forum lol
When u/ling, put your cursor in front of each u/ls '!'mark, then hit ‘return.’
That will give each pic a space between the others.