I am correct in saying that it is not possible to safely lift an E Type on a 2 post lift? There does not seem to be any strong point at the front that can take the weight and I read in old forum posts that lifting under the rear radius arms metalistic joint can damage the joint.
Here is how I lift mine
One pair of arms go under the radius arm attaching points using a shaped wooden block that is probably not really necessary but it makes me more comfortable.
The other pair goes under wooden blocks that fit righ to the seam between the floor pan and bulkhead. The blocks distribute the load to prevent bending the floor pan.
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I have lifted mine quite comfortably by using the front rear lower wishbone points and the rear under the radius arms …… both points are very sturdy ….anda good balance is achieved…… but you need long arms on your lift
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I know many people lift the car as John has shown. I prefer to lift as far forward as possible at the rear of A-arm mount. I just had a 2+2 on the lift and it was a stretch to use A-arm mount. When I purchased my BendPac I just got the standard length arms, lifting my Honda pick-up got interesting.
Glenn
congratulations on having a straight radiator support! 
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Imagine my miffedness, when after I had warned them not to lift underneath the radiator support, and CLEARLY pointed out the wooden effin block, in the picture frame, the body shop who painted Tweety promptly lifted it under the radiator support…!
The fortunate thing was I triple checked it at the body shop, because I couldn’t get the bonnet to go down and I knew not to force it and sure enough, that’s what they had done.
I made them repair it–under my direct supervision–before I left their premises.
Miffedness doesn’t quite cover how I felt…
My Series III OTS fits comfortably and safely
Views are from directly underneath
This positioning works even after the V12 engine was removed.
Craig
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Danny when lifting under the rear lower wishbone joints doesn’t the torsion bar reaction plate get in the way? Also Can you reach this position with the lift arm the front wheels on
Craig. Great for a Series III but my Series II doesn’t have the cross beam at the front
Please confirm that this is a series 2 car with the depressed foot well as opposed to the flat floor models.
A series 3 is built on a 2+2 (LWB) platform which is different than a SWB which I believe is what you have. Flat floors are an early short lived series 1 model only built in 61.
Marco
Ok my car is a series 1 but has the same floor arrangement as a series 2 …. See my photo…. You can see I had to extend my arms on my hoist …… always make sure you get a qualified person to design any alterations to your lift
As you can see there is no interference with the wheels or torsion bar reaction plate
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It is, Series II FHC.
The blocks are cut to the dimension between the bulkhead and where the footwell begins. I also drilled out holes for the plastic buttons that hold the carpet in place so those wouldn’t be pushed up when the car is lifted. The walnut stain and urethane are optional.
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Thanks. It’s far from perfect but much, much better than it was when I bought the car. 
I have used this method with my 2-post lift (MaxJax) with very good result. The only time I was a little worried was when I was installing the IRS before the engine- I used ratchet straps to tie the front frames to the lift arms just in case the weight transferred too far to the rear. As clarification the rear arms are lifting at the front of the radius arms under the large bushing. This point of the body is very much reinforced.
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Yep good point Doug …. Until I had the rear end and engine both in …. I supported the IRS and actually had the front part under the chassis rails until the engine was in and secure
In whose world? Surely not in Walkerland!
