Just b/c I had some time and I called them, the kit number is either 154-6001 or 154-6401. If you type in the previous post, it will not give you anything. I guess the 154-6401 is their wavelock material, which is the same bolt, just better / stronger I guess. It’s funny how prejudiced they are toward the Brits. No Jaguar or Land Rover listings.
I know Norm - wouldn’t dream of using them. I buy bolts and twelve point nuts in bulk. Was just saying that the ones Jag inserted from new last as long as the bearing and the scrap people see in heir sumps is not virgin Jag-fitted split pins.
I’d countersink the small end hole if I blanked off the drilling but by coincidence have just fitted my first ever set of drilled rods because I accidentally paid for them to be refurbed. I assumed the machinist would have to spoil them unseizing the 3.4 core I asked him to sleeve to 3.8. But he saved them and checked/re-sized them using new bolts I’d ordered. Seemed a shame to waste the nice refurb so I’ll use them at a conservative rev limit while I get used to the D and see if the block holds up. Then I’ll save up for a billet crank and decent rods/pistons and a wide angle head…
Peter, there is nothing wrong with the Jag crank. I had my 4.2 race crank crack tested prior to lightening, knife edging and polishing it. Together with S3 XJ Rods fitted with ARP bolts, this engine was used for 3 years, revving up to 8000rpm. with never a problem.
Max power was 350HP @ 7500rpm.
Saved a fortune over Billet crank and Carrillo Rods that my friends were using in their engines. And believe me Carrillo Rods do break.
Peter, throw those early rods in the Bin, if they let go, you’ll be spending more than the refurbishment cost. Get a set of S3 rods and fit the ARP Bolts, they are stronger and lighter, will not fail.
Drudged up my photos just to compare… (Jan. '69 car)
So the only lock tabs on my crank are the brackets for assundries. Why would they cease lock tabs on the bolts, but keep them on the brackets? Long way from rebuilding the engine, and there is a LOT of varying opinions on this apparently. Good thing Wiggy is gonna help… @Wiggles
That bottom end looks pretty clean: you might pull the center main and a rod cap, take a happy snappy, and see if maybe all you’ll need is a fresh-up.
Pull off the shell, and see if standard, or oversized.
I’ve usually got a set Norman but my only unopened spare is an XJ S2. I need to finish the rear body off first so the 3.8 will have to suffice for now.
If you were closer I might find a B head for you to breathe on.
Because you’re talking E, the bracket used on the XJ didn’t incorporate lock tabs.
Because those bracket bolts are short . They are too short to develop any stretch, so they’ll happily vibrate loose. The main and big end bolts are long enough to develop some stretch, so they won’t vibrate loose.
Those “bracket bolts” are the main bearing bolts. They are all the same length.
ALL bolts acheive “stretch” when torqued, if they don’t then they are to Brittle and will break.
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If I were closer, I’d do you a lightened and polished crank as well.
Peter your S2 engine needs to Eng. No. 8L51501 on to have the correct rods
