Here are the gizmos:
Are the threads in the manifold worn so that the stud thread is under sized? If that is why they keep coming loose there is a nifty little stud sold by xk’s to solve the problem.
then you never tried to get it out either.
I’ll hafta give it a whirl on the Jeep flanges!
You might want to consider these studs at McMaster.com
Search on “Steel vibration resistant threaded rods”
I know, it says rods, but they are studs. Standard male to female threads leave an intentional gap between the threads, to allow assembly. Class 2B is a standard thread provided on most everything one would buy. These use a Class 5 thread profile, which is probably going to be hard to install but once you get it in, it should stay. Disclaimer: I have not tried them myself.
Yes, of course that’s the way to go about it, thanks for reminding me Andrew
My thinking is that its the expansion of the cast iron that leaves the stud “loose”…anyone agree/disagree that this is or might be the case??
Well, they were new when I got them from Welsh a few years back, but then I have no faith in that supplier as previously mentioned.
Not sure that would work John, is there even room to get them in from above, what with the curves of the casting? Also, it’s bad enough trying the get hands and wrenches in there when using the nuts on the bottom, I would think it would be a bloody nightmare trying the hold the top end at the same time.
The threads were probably sloppy to start with, and they’ll probably have been wallered out by someone removing a rusted stud at least once.
Once you get play, a fastener will walk, even if torqued properly. Heat cycles just speed that process up.
I see you speak Western…
Les
I had one stud that had boogered up threads and the nut wouldn’t stay tight. While the manifolds were off the head I tried to get the stud out of the manifold. Big vise and the “blue wrench”, yes hammers too. I felt I was approaching “bust the cast iron corner ear off” pressure. It wasn’t coming loose despite my best tricks. (I lived in the salty snow belt, AND owned a Ford to establish my rust bonifides)
I put a spacer against the collar to avoid the bad threads, then double nutted that stud. About 10-15 yrs ago. Still tight. A bodge? yes.
Remember the Murphy’s Law corollary: “it is cast iron’s mission in life to crack”.
Be careful!
Whilst we’re acknowledging local idiom: the term is “buggered” not “boogered”.
Depends on the audience. Boogered when ladies are present, buggered when just the guys are around. 
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If you guys would stop buggering around, I’m trying to fix a car here…
Found part of the problem…maybe all…the studs are too short in that they don’t go right through or even to the top of the manifold, which leaves zero space to do anything like notching for spreading the stud tip. Fully wound in they stop about three threads down! Oh, and they are new!
Other old studs I have laying around have the same dimension/problem.
My solution…going to pick up some 3/8" x 24 x 3ft material tomorrow and make my own. Will “cripple” a part of the thread where the plain section would normally be, then cut a slot in the top, insert into manifold, wind down with double nuts, spread the tip. I figure that should hold the bastards!!! Will use Nord’s on the bottom side…might even use steel nuts.
If the aforementioned doesn’t work, I’ll consider putting a Chevy motor in it!!
Can’t you just buy studs with the longer threads on the manifold end? Try a Fastenal or other fastener store.
Not all threaded rod is equal Home Depot/ Lowes threaded rod is grade 2 or 3 according to the fastener store I frequent. They sell grade 5 which is what most studs I’ve seen appear to be.
Heh…heh…heh…you said bugger.
My mother forbade this word being used in our house.
In any case- I advocate for the buggering of the threads- this is a great solution, typically, to his sort of problem (not kidding).
A warning, tho- don’t get carried away; a little bit of buggering can go a long way.
Huff
69 2+2
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I’m getting the material from Fastenal, no idea what grade it is but it’s not like it carries a lot of strain. I did buy a pack of grade 8 bolts from them to try to make studs but I wasn’t able to run a die down the trimmed end very successfully…that stuff is very hard.
I’ll find out tomorrow.
That was probably the most often used “curse” word used in our house, and It’s just about used everywhere and in all mixed company. No-one even thinks twice about using it…“poor old bugger”…“silly bugger”…“bugger off”…“well I’m/I’ll be buggered”…“you stupid/silly bugger”…“stop buggering about”…are just a few of the very common uses in everyday language when I grew up, in the 'burbs of London.
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