I have been searching for the correct type of sockets for changing the fluid in the differential for months and needless to say they have proven elusive. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
I was only able to get the square drain plug on the left loosened by using the large ½ ” socket above it called “Gator Grip” but there has to be a square socket that is actually made for this type of plug.
The fill plug on the right is square as well but inverted. I was able to use the ½” ratchet on the right, but again, there must be a specific socket that is made for this plug.
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
2
As I understand it, the recessed square holes are designed to fit the ratchet or extension.
I have a couple of square drive sockets, they are actually 8-point sockets, but they rarely fit when I need them. I presume you’d need a whole set to expect them to be useful when needed. I’d just use an adjustable wrench on that plug.
Are you talking about your face-lift model? Yes, they use what is called a “pipe socket”, which is a male 1/2" “socket”. Same for the plug to drain the differential. I have posted before how I took Superblue to NTB here one time to have them check/drain the fluid (she makes some low-pitched noise back there @ around 30-40 MPH speeds) and they just looked at me like they had no idea what I was talking about. When I finally got the concept across to them, they claimed they didn’t “have a set of those” and suggested I take her to a “transmission shop”, which was “better suited” for the task. I told them I just couldn’t believe that, as I’m sure male sockets are used all the time on differentials, transmissions, etc. I even told them they could order a set of them from NAPA (their tool and parts supplier) for less than $50 and put it on my tab and keep them to work on other cars with. Still, no deal. So, still driving it around, over a year later. At this point I’m about to use the method that (VK? Gregmatic?) used, via the 2" hole saw hole cut in the boot wall to access the check plug w/o raising the car.
Um, I didn’t know that. I just thought I’d gotten lucky
Yeah, the adjustable wrench has always been my first logical choice, but to avoid slippage and rounding off the square the wrench is always to long and is never able to sit squarely because (in this case) the bottom plate is in the way.
What I’d like to do is find a magnetic replacement that accepts a metric or sae socket, which would be more practical.
not sure what differential you’re talking about. Mine is the Dana (1988) that only has the fill plug that is a recessed 1/2" square.
I ended up drilling a 2" hole in the trunk right where this plug is. Dave the Limey posted a photo a while back showing it’s location. I blindly went with the same location, and it was spot on. The hole can easily be covered, and it’s hidden anyways with the spare tire. THIS IS ONLY FOR THE DANA DIFFERENTIAL! I have no idea where the locations are for the more common Salisbury differentials.
So now it’s easy as cake inserting a 1/2" drive extension and getting that plug off/on. Definitely worth changing oil, I will be doing it every two years. Not only to keep bearings/seals in good shape. I noticed my limited slip worked so much better with fresh oil.
A.J., Take a look at Mcmaster-Carr website. They will happily sell you pipe plugs with different heads- hexagon, Allen, square, etc. Check out P/n. 7739K184. You can buy just one if you wish, but the freight charge may seem like a bit much.
Yeah, having an access hole in the trunk for refilling the diff was always my first thought as it was also pointed out in Kirby’ book. The only other way of replenishment that I can see would be to pump it in. The access hole on my car is in the same location as yours. Changing the diff oil every two years is frequent indeed.
Thanks Dave, I will search their site for that part number.
I have obviously been able to get both plugs loosened without the use of specific tools just like everyone else, but lately it seems that I have more frequently found myself in search of these tools for things other than the Jag. My neighbors zero turn Grasshopper is just one example that comes to mind. I have found that farm equipment, tractors, skid steers, etc. are extremely hard to work on without the proper tools, and a lot of these types of plugs show up with different sizes.
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
10
Actually, the recommended method is to feed in a long hose from the wheel well.
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
12
I was able with a lot of contortioning to get my fill plug off using standard sockets and universal.
I highly recommend ensuring you can remove the fill plug before you open the drain… just saying
So then, based on all the above, I should be able to use the bare end of the extension (or the wrench itself) of my 1/2" socket wrench to remove the fill and drain plugs on Superblue, my 4.0? And the same for Superblack, my '92 facelift 5.3?
As to what fluid to use in the (facelift) differentials, I notice the Jag factory workshop literature refers to a straight 90 weight product called “Shell Super Spirax”. I have been looking all over the internet for it, but it appears that Shell no longer makes a product with that name (i.e. with “Super” in it). The closest thing by Shell that seems to fit the bill today is:
Shell Spirax S2 ALS 90 is a high quality API GL-5 Axle Oil for Limited Slip Differentials.
Is that correct? It sure isn’t cheap, btw, and that one source of it that I have found is in … tuh-duh, the U.K.! btw, I’m thinking the “LS” in the product name = limited slip (differential).
I opted for the original, but was only able to locate it in the UK. It was a while ago, but as I recall the episode, shipping alone was more than the actual product, and the oil wasn’t cheap either. The timing couldn’t have been poorer as this was the early day of the pandemic and the shipping was anything but expeditious. Once the product finally entered the US customs stepped in and sucked the oil down into their black hole and extended the arrival time for nearly two months. A word to the wise, plan ahead.
Gear oil is gear oil. Just make SURE it’s for LSD, and the correct weight.
My 1988 Dana differential, I put in Castrol Axle Limited Slip 80W-90. A very good gear oil. Not sure what differential is in the Facelifts, but I assume it’s not some unique differential that requires a special gear oil? Isn’t it the same Salisbury that was put in the pre 1987 XJ-S’s?
When I finally got the concept across to them, they claimed they didn’t “have a set of those” and suggested I take her to a “transmission shop”, which was “better suited” for the task. 
I told them I just couldn’t believe that, as I’m sure male sockets are used all the time on differentials, transmissions, etc. I even told them they could order a set of them from NAPA (their tool and parts supplier) for less than $50 and put it on my tab and keep them to work on other cars with. Still, no deal. 
So, still driving it around, over a year later. At this point I’m about to use the method that (VK? Gregmatic?) used, via the 2" hole saw hole cut in the boot wall to access the check plug w/o raising the car. 
The closest thing by Shell that seems to fit the bill today is:
btw, I’m thinking the “LS” in the product name = limited slip (differential). 