Looking for Truth

The actual car is a Realm replica C type. I am on this forum because the engine init is a 4.2 with the 3 webers which was most likely from a donor XJ or e-type.

Here is the situation.

My tech is telling me the following:
Whoever built the engine indexed the cam wrong and therefore the cars can never really be tuned. In addition, he stated:
Distributor gear is also indexd wrong, oil is weeping all over the place etc. I noe see a small puddle of green coolant it appears .
So, I call the man who built the engine as I have all his receipts from when I bought the car.bulshit, It is not possible to put the cam in wrong and he has the Jag tool to make it correct.

looking for real world facts please as I need to know what path to go down.
Is it a repair of pulling the cam covers of etc, a rebuild or who knows what is really going on?

Much appreciated!

That’s a bit of a loaded question, impossible to answer completely on this forum: there are many things that could be wrong, and what somebody is going to have to do is go back to ground and check all the engine’s fundamentals. At a minimum, that requires pulling the cam covers.

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The Webbers are simply sourced from wherever, and not from either an E Type or XJ, unless someone exchanged the standard SU or Stromberg Carburetors of these two models for Webbers.

Incorrect indexing of either or both the Distributor Gear and Cams is possible. The indexing of the Distributor is not a catastrophic deal, except that it’s wrong, but the Can Indexing is more serious. The engine may be able to tolerate a small indexing error without damage, but not much. But if the alignment tool was used during engine assembly, its not hard to get it right. This could be confirmed by checking with an alignment tool.

Regards,

Bill

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Pull the cam covers, turn the engine to TDC with the cam lobes on the front cylinder facing away from the cylinder head valley. Take a photo of this and also remove the distributor cap and post a photo of that as well.
Try to identify what area of the engine the coolant is coming from.

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THanks !!! I will get that done ASAP! Can you give a ballpark amount of time needed to do that?

thx

Probably no more than 2 hours.
Pull the plugs, undo the cam cover nuts unclip the distributor cap, turn the engine over using the front crankshaft nut.
You may need to re-new the cam cover gaskets.

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Always good to make sure TDC is in fact TDC…There are various simple ways

Also make sure the shop knows where #1 was selected - meaning, it was originally the cylinder against the firewall, but many shops swap it to the front (closest to the radiator) to aid in TDC identification. This works just fine until the next guy works on the car and then you potentially go through the exercise you are going through now.

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Saying the cams are indexed incorrectly is an easy statement to make, but how does he know? Did he find that when he placed the engine on TDC the notches didn’t line up with the tool, and if so why didn’t he correct that - it’s not difficult. Has he checked them with a degree wheel? It’s not difficult to use a degree wheel and set them exactly, even if the notches for the tool were cut incorrectly. Do you know if it has stock cams or are they modified - typically by cutting away the back of the cam to get greater lift and duration? Jaguar reportedly had some issues with getting the notch in the flange on the cam done accurately, but again there is only one way to know.

Oh, by the by, it is definitely possible, and even simple, to put the cams in wrong, even if you have a tool.

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Dne and yes it made a HUGE difference!!!

thx a lot
!!!

Blair,
Please provide more details of what work was done and exactly what was discovered to be wrong to fix your problem.

Paul

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Makes no difference if you use 1 or 6 tdc to index the cams, you can only get the distributor 180° out. In fact the stting tool pits no 6 on the firing stroke.

and we definitely need a bunch more photos of your Jag

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Hi Craig,

So after the failed 1st radiator fix , we pulled it out and I found a guy who actually knew what he was doing and tested it and right away we saw fluid pouring our,. He replaced the core so I aded a much bigger fan since the fan was quite small. Got it dialed in so that was checked off the list. Not cheap by the way 950 to rebuild total .

THEN CAME THE TERRIBLE IDLE ETC OF THE MOTOR. MY GUY CHECKED THE TINNG AND SAID IT WASNT EVEN CLOSE TO BE IN A RANGE THAT WOULD BE ACCEPTABLE. HE FIRST HAD

TO RELOCATE THE DISTRIBUTIOR AND THEN FOUND TDC AND REARRANGED THE PLUG WIRES I BELIEVES> THEN NOTICED THE 1ST WEBER HAD THE SET SCREW ALL THE WAY IN WHIHC I THINK MEANT IT WASNT REALLY WORKING T ALL. CRAZY , I KNOW. HE SET THE 3 AND IT RUNS SMOOTHE WITHOUT ALL THE POPS AND BACKFIREE AND BULLSHIT. I AM NOW STUCK WITH THE ALIGHMENT ISSUE. I WIL POSTE PICS FROM THE SHOP. THE BRAKES ARE ALSO IN NEED OF SOME HELP. I HAVE TO REMEMBER I DIDNT BUY A CAR, I BOUGHT A PROJECT! Pics coming!!!

Called Adrian this morning and he said he would send me the alignment settings to use. Hope that helps!!

Sorry my caps button is stuck on my IMAC….

What recourse – if any – do you regarding all the funds you paid the first expert (*) that built / fine tuned your Jag?

(*) the proper definition of “expert” can best be accomplished by examining the component elements of the word
“EX” - a washed-up has been
“SPERT” - a dip; under pressure (alternate spelling)

Sounds like the alignment is the last hurdle you are facing

Setting up the cams, distributor and pistons to work with each other is relatively straightforward. Setting up the Weber carburettors is not.

kind regards
Marek

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