Torsion bar setting bolts… about how much of the threads are actually used in the process of setting the correct ride height? I ask this because the threads at the top 1/3 are unhealthy looking. Both shafts are somewhat bent at the upper part and I am concerned that once I straighten them the threads may become unusable. Thank you.
john
I used a valve spring compressor to compress my Mk7 shockabsorber bushes enough to put the splitpin in.
Mine are showing about 1-1/2" of thread below the nuts.
Hi John…one of mine was bent but not so much…i screwed on 3 standard size nuts…one at top, middle, bottom…got the flats to line up then between two thick plates and in the press…worked great…Steve
I like that - that’s a clever method to prevent damage to the thread… I’ll be stealing that for future use…
Thanks Steve. I’ll try that; it’s easier than what I was thinking. I was thinking to possibly splice the heads onto Grade 8 bolts with a bushings.
john
Mine were quite bashed about, so I bought new ones. These are safety critical, didn’t want to take chances with them.
Has anyone tried using a pair of G8 6-inch bolts instead?
john
I haven’t seen fully threaded Grade 8 bolts with a square head.
I think yours can be straightened. I would try it in a bench vise with an O/A torch and hammer.
You could also get some out of a saloon. Try Jaguar Heaven in Stockton CA.
Thanks Rob. I’ll try them. Every time I call them they have nothing. Seems their main business now is later models that have now become collectable.
I tried rethreading mine and have to say these are a very hard alloy. That’s why I though I might start out with G8 bolts.
john
I cant see why you couldn’t use a grade 8 or higher if you can find one and have tops welded on…or try Coventry Auto …I would try to straighten what you have…but dont try to re cut the thread…you dont want to be removeing any metal…a thread chaser would be better Steve
Good idea, Steve. The threads are pretty chewed up and even missing in some place.
john
I will be dismantling the front suspension of a MK7 very soon,
so if you cant get it sorted, I may be able to supply them.
It does take 2 weeks to post items to USA
PM me if you are interested
Thank you, Tony. I cut off the heads from my old ones today and I’m going to see if I can weld them onto standard bolts. I’ll be in touch if I can’t pull it off.
john
I can’t imagine that working. There is a lot of stress on them.
Better to get the ones from Tony.
Hi John…when i mentioned welding a top on to a bolt i was thinking more of a thick squarish shape dished washer to put your bolt through then welding on top to create a bolt similar to the original…Steve
I agree with Rob that welding some form of a top onto a threaded bolt shank will fail. The problem with this is that you’ll end up with a bolt that has a tensile strength of (at best) 30K PSI at the weld joint and up to 80K PSI along the rest of the bolt shank. The stresses will then concentrate in the weakest area.
If determined to make your own, a better route would be to obtain a Grade 8 bolt with a large enough head so that it could be profiled down to size on a mill using a rotary table. Shank threading to size would have been preceded with turning on a lathe. Maybe this is how the reproductions are made? The ones I last purchased from Coventry Auto sure looked as if their heads were milled and not forged.
Does the “T” bolt only see stress during ride height adjustment? Can someone tell me if I’m thinking this right? What gives me this notion is the 3/8" (horizontal) bolt that goes thru the fork then thru the chassis plate and locks the fork to the chassis once the optimum ride height is set. I’m surprised that they didn’t use a thicker bolt here, however. Thoughts?
john
No, that ‘T’ is under constant tension, just try to move the adjuster nut and it will be tight.
