With all the cage, is this intended as a track car?
Paul,
This started out with the idea to build a period rally car, or sedan class track car look alike. In about four months time it continued to morph. Then it got totally out of hand.
To answer you question, I may do some auto cross with it, and plenty of street time.
Seems more like a Maseratti bird cage in Jaguar skin.
Carl
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Oh, to make it a Maser, it’d need 600 more feet of 1/2” tubing!
When I was a kid, I saw two Tipo 61s, racing at CDR: I was lovestruck! I was prolly 5-7, at the time.
I wanted them both, and Dad asked me how I was going to afford them (at the time, the TWO were available for $8000), and I told him I was going to solve the mysteries of sunspots, win the Nobel Prize, and buy’em!!
With the ponies he’s stuffing into that Jag shell, that cage looks just adequate.
Cant wait to see it all done!
Carl & Paul,
I didn’t get the “bird cage”, now with Paul’s link I do. Thanks!
I can always short shift it to keep it under control. The Windsor is making 573 HP at 5000 with 602 ft/lb of torque.
What I really need to do is focus and get back in the garage 5-6 hours a day.
Thanks for looking
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Any more updates Clyde?
Robin,
thanks for the punch up!
Current directions. Bolting on everything, only to take it off again someday to paint the car. Suspension, both front and rear is in, along with the exhaust from the front cross member to the rear valance. Brake lines are done in cu/nickel. Overhauled the column. Fuel system is in/and out from the tank to the firewall. currently working on the wiring, and what I’m calling end points (where the wires terminate). I want to drive it this year without glass and a helmet. Now lets see if I can remember how to post pictures.
converted the rear reflector to a LED. Red running, put it in reverse - it’s the back up lights. Center trunk back up light is being converted to a stop lamp. Green fuse buss is out of a BMW.
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VERY cool!! Can’t wait to hear it run!
Paul, Here’s the one of the dyno runs.
cheers,
Thanks: never been a fan of V8 noises (unless using a 180 header, which makes’em sound like a 6 banger); but, my meaning, poorly stated, was waiting to see the CAR run!
Paul,
Got it! I hope to make a no windows run this year. I’ll make two video’s - one with sound and one without. Then it has to come back apart for paint. I had to side step the MK2 this week to work on my '77XJ12L - also a V8.
Had a couple of 6 bangers along the way - the '51 Chev with a flex-a-tube muffler sounded like an old school bus when you let off the gas. Also, I had a couple of “coffee grinders” (4 bangers).
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Very impressive!, clearly a labor of love. Most of my builds have been FordV8. My Jag is a rare exception. Your work is good. Don’t let up!
I’m impressed. Not only the engine, but the organized electricals.
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As a kid I added another pipe to my “still
T powered” hot rod. Straight flex pipe to the stern. Bending and welding pipe beyond my means. Not Bad !! -
Decades ago, my son built a “stock car” for paved oval racing., Based on a Fairlane pan. Fox body. Cleaveland warmed up as much as the rules allowed plus a bit. 180’s ala NASCAR. Wicked sound. alas, it ate 3 speed transmissions. OK, sorta, cheap and not hard to replace, all things considered. 1st was synchro, but a useless appendage…
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My warmed up Toyota FJ40 6 enjoyed 6 to 1 headers and a glass pack. Nice sound.
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The purr of a ford flat head v8 on headers and Smitty’s is musical… Even more so, if the “heat risers” are blocked.
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Circa 47, a class mate had a Studebaker Champion. split manifold and Smitty’s. very nice. Back rap included…
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A guy across town had a "warmed up 37 Buick straight 8. Dual carbs, Three pipes!!! . Odd noise plus the whine of the straight cut gears, awesome…
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My Lump has a very nice purr. Much like the burble of boat exhaust under water. Not raucus or excessive, just makes it’s presence known.
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Then the rasp of a big bike two cycle with expansion pipe!!! Ripping cloth////
Carl.
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Updates: battery is in, trunk/boot wiring laid in place/not connected, differential breather installed, and running/back-up LED wired - LED is located in the housing with a tapered sleeve. Not shown: main power now runs to relay & fuse board, main ground runs to engine compartment. Working on the holes through the firewall for the forward wiring.
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I wanna see THOSE pix!!!
Just a small request: a thin rubber sheet, under that positive battery cable, and the beautiful, grounded retaining plate.
Most sanctioning bodies require that, and it’s safer.
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Paul,
Thanks for the “rubber sheet tip” I have twenty or so feet of rubber roofing in stock. I can make a “gasket” for the top of the “battery box” and glue it in place. The cable is encased in “Insultherm”. Are you reverencing two gaskets, one on top of the box and one below? The box is grounded. How does a gasket below help?
I keep saying “soon” to myself. My thought is when the wiring is through the firewall grommets I’m putting in place, I will make the serious decision that it is coming off the rotisserie.