hi all,
i have a S3 350/T400 Daimler with a holley 650, that has heaps of power but
uses too much fuel.
someone here suggested a 2 barrell holley, about 350, someone else said a
465, someone else a rochester,
I don’t need all that power, & wouldn’t mind some better economy,
Any ideas/experiences??
also i am running at 3000 rpm at 110 kph, too much, hoping to get it down
to about 2000 somehow, may change the diff, I don’t think the 700
transmssions are very common here in Oz, are they the only 4 speed to use???
cheers, Bruce Miller
Bruce Miller Photographer
43 Hinsby Rd
Taroona
Hobart
Tasmania 7053
Australia
hi all,
i have a S3 350/T400 Daimler with a holley 650, that has heaps of power but
uses too much fuel.
someone here suggested a 2 barrell holley, about 350, someone else said a
465, someone else a rochester,
Bruce,
I am running a 2 bb Rochester on my 400 small block. It really has plenty
of oomph at the low end, but starts to run out of flash at the top. I have done
some reading on this subject in the GM literature, namely “Hotrodding Chevy
Small Blocks”. This is an extremely unbiased and intelligent book. It suggests
that for street use, most people spend gobs of $ unnecessarily, and even
counterproductively. The best choice seems to be the smallest 4bb you can find,
in the range of 450 cfm. The aftermarket Rochester Q-Jet is a very good choice
with small primaries for general use, and much larger secondaries for punching
it, when necessary.
As to the tranny vs. diff solution to RPM, the tranny solution [700R-4] is the
optimal because it gives greater flexibility. The whole point of 4 gear ratios
is to give good low end with smooth transition to cruising, ie loafing at 2000
rpm at 70 mph. You will sacrifice the low end to some degree with the 2.88
diff. But we must remember that no matter what trans/diff combo you use, you
have a helluva lot more power now than you ever did with the Jag 6 or 12. If
you want the tranny option, you might have one of us stateside find a 700R-4 to
ship you for rebuilding [any pre 89 must be upgraded]. Before doing so, make
sure you won’t have any UNANTICIPATED driveshaft problems.
Richard in San Diego, CA
what carby would be good on 350 chev motor, looking at 600 hollie,
2 barrel or 4???–
one day at a time
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In reply to a message from bulldogod sent Sun 11 Jan 2009:
Use the stock QJet if you are interested in economy and good
performance. QJet much better than Holley for driving around on the
street which is 90%+ of the function of these heavy cars.
I am getting 16.2 mpg now with my QJet on the ZZ4/383 410 HP with
200R trans. I drive it 86 miles per day round trip in heavy So Cal
traffice using the AC as needed.–
The original message included these comments:
what carby would be good on 350 chev motor, looking at 600 hollie,
In reply to a message from bulldogod sent Sun 11 Jan 2009:
What intake manifold are you running, what stage of tune is the
engine, and do you need a choke in your climate? What attributes
do you value most - performance or economy? The 600 vac sec
Holley, list #1850, is a functional but outdated peice that would
not be my choice on either count for any engine.
In reply to a message from Andrew Robertson sent Sun 11 Jan 2009:
it has a edelbrock performer 2101, what do you mean by ''what stage
of tune is the engine:?motor is crate motor, done about 700kms. Im
also in NZ.–
one day at a time
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In reply to a message from bulldogod sent Sat 17 Jan 2009:
I think what he was asking is mileage on the motor…is it a high
mileage, valve seal leaking, heavy blowby sbc or a low mileage,
good condition piece. Sounds like you have the later of the two.–
Rob Wade
Windsor Ontario, Canada
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In reply to a message from Leah Kininmonth sent Tue 20 Jan 2009:
The 2101 would be a great choice for your QJet. I used the
Professional Products Cylclone 52000/520001 because it was polished
and less money. They make modern designed manifolds using the ideas
of the old brands but improve on them. It has better cooling
options and will work on the early and later heads.
Basically they are the same as far as performance goes - idle up to
5500. It is low enough that I am able to use a 3 inch K&N filter
with a drop down base and their X top filter in my XJ6 and have
good clearance under the hood.
If you do not have a 200R/700R or other transmission that needs a
TV cable, it is a bolt on install. If so, I used the TV cable from
BowTieOverdrives on mine and it works great. Others will fit and
work properly as well.–
The original message included these comments:
The EDL-2101 is a good intake that is designed to accept a Q-jet, so that’s
Gee, $725 for a carburetor? How about getting one from a recycling
yard and rebuilding it? I would rather spend $725 on installing
Fuel Injection. Surely you could do a good TBI setup for less than
that - and probably tuned-port, or LT1 style, or Holley or
Edlebrock fuel injection near or under $725. And, you would have
all the benefits of a fuel injected engine no more carburetor
hassles. After having done fuel injection, I would never go back
to carburetors.–
lockheed
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In reply to a message from lockheed sent Fri 30 Jan 2009:
I did, it looks complete and would great for someone with a stock
motor.
The price is good and you would not have to go to many places to
get all the required working parts.
I have just purchased a later model LT1 car and am learning about
the EFI system. If it proves out that I get good performance and
good mileage (>22 mpg) with the car, I will convert my S1 383/200R
to FI. I have had plans for a long time to do this using a Mass-Flo
system.
But, that type of conversion will cost about $3500.00 for all
things required. It does take more fuel to feed those 400+ horses
than a stock 350.–
The original message included these comments:
Wnat to move on up to fuel injection without major cost - in fact
cheaper than a good carb.? How about TBI? Check this item on E-
In reply to a message from Roger Mabry sent Sun 1 Feb 2009:
Lockheed:
Indeed, it sold for $55. & change! A great deal for a stock or very
near stock engine.
I am very pleased with my LT1.
Carl–
The original message included these comments:
I did, it looks complete and would great for someone with a stock
motor.
The price is good and you would not have to go to many places to
get all the required working parts.
I have just purchased a later model LT1 car and am learning about
the EFI system. If it proves out that I get good performance and
good mileage (>22 mpg) with the car, I will convert my S1 383/200R
to FI. I have had plans for a long time to do this using a Mass-Flo
system.
But, that type of conversion will cost about $3500.00 for all
things required. It does take more fuel to feed those 400+ horses
In reply to a message from Roger Mabry sent Sun 1 Feb 2009:
Roger,
There are GM TBI units made for the BB 454. It would simply be a
matter of adapting one of those throttle bodies to fit the 350
manifold if one chose to go that route. It possibly might take
some tweaking of the 454 TBI system computer also.–
lockheed
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Correction: selling price was $455.75. The 1227747 ECU sold with that
FI system is a plentiful & popular computer for hot-rodding. As the
seller stated, the FI system wouldn’t flow enough fuel for his
application. This is a common problem with TBI because 2 injectors feed
8 cylinders. Even a 454 setup won’t flow enough fuel for 400HP+
applications. You need so many lbs/hr of fuel flow per HP. The stock
454s did not make huge amounts of HP, they made huge amounts of torque
at modest RPMs. Gotta go with multi-point fuel injection (MFI) if you
want maximum performance. I had a GMC pickup with TBI 350, replaced the
350 with a 383 stroker, bumped the cam up a notch and converted it to
MFI with the Edelbrock MFI kit. Used the stock '747 ECU with a
different chip (PROM). There is a constant in the PROM that calibrates
the ECU for injector flow rate and cylinder displacement. You tweak
that to get in the ballpark for your engine and injector size and then
adjust the fuel and ignition maps to match the volumetric efficiency and
spark advance needs of the engine. There is 3rd party software that
will log data from the ECU to a laptop while you drive and other
software for recalibrating the PROM chip. That and some patience is all
you need to dial in your engine. Not all that difficult or expensive if
you want a snappy, fuel-efficient motor. The Lumps I have owned were
both carbed, but I will never build a carb motor again. FI is too much fun.
My $0.02
Dave Harvey
89 XJ-S V12 Marelli “Deidre”
98 XJR “Emma”
used to own 2 Lumps - will again some day
Los Angeles, Ca.
cadjag wrote:
Indeed, it sold for $55. & change! A great deal for a stock or very
near stock engine.
In reply to a message from Dave Harvey sent Sun 1 Feb 2009:
Dave
Right, it was a typo.
Add 400 bucks!
Carl–
The original message included these comments:
Correction: selling price was $455.75. The 1227747 ECU sold with that
FI system is a plentiful & popular computer for hot-rodding. As the
seller stated, the FI system wouldn’t flow enough fuel for his
application. This is a common problem with TBI because 2 injectors feed
In reply to a message from Dave Harvey sent Sun 1 Feb 2009:
Interesting input Dave. If one simply wants to run a stock set up
with no engine mods for everyday normal driving, the std. TBI setup
should work just fine - especially with a 2.88 rear and the 700-R4.–
lockheed
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