[Lumps!] Engine bay wiring clean up project and a few opinions please

Lumps
1

Well spring has almost sprung. I have a few outstanding
projects left on my lump and they’re biggies. At the top of
my wish list is a full repaint - new color entirely. I’ll
tackle that next fall when I put her to sleep for the
winter. there are a couple of reputable classic car
restoration shops nearby and know it will run me between
$15k and $20K. I’ll post that topic separately if anyone’s
interested.

This spring, I’m going to tackle the engine bay wiring
(clean up by removing what’s no longer needed, rerouting and
re-shielding etc.) I plan to start at the firewall as it
appears to be the most daunting. I haven’t mapped out the
tasks yet but have read several threads and also viewed a
few project car pics posted.
I’ve noticed a couple of different approaches folks have
taken to the firewall when viewing pics. Some have removed
the heat shield entirely, some left alone and I saw at least
one lump that appeared to have closed cell foam with
aluminum facing.

Since I intend to repaint and in a new color, I’ll remove
the firewall heat shield, at least temporarily. This will
allow me to clean the firewall and cut down on the labor
costs for the engine bay painting when I bring her in to the
restoration shop.
That thought led me to the task of cleaning up the wiring
and a few others.

I plan to route my ECM under the passenger seat, currently
in the engine bay.
I want to replace the battery as my local NAPA salesman
talked me into a gargantuan replacement for the Jag OEM and
it barely clears the hood. My mistake entirely.

I would love to get your input on a few things.

First, for those who have removed the firewall heat shield
and left it off - any noticeable difference in cabin temp
or sound?
Anything that can’t be rectified by adding heat shielding
and sound proofing to the interior?

Battery - for those who have moved theirs to the boot, any
issues, regrets, preferences?
For those who haven’t, do you have a battery make and model
that’s at least close to OEM size but with a little more
cranking power for the V8?
I guess my preference is to keep the battery in the engine
bay utilizing the OEM hold down, but still like to hear from
others.

Radiator header plate - I followed Andrew’s Radiator swap
and I’m thrilled with the results but will admit, the job I
did cutting the hole in the header plate for the cap is
nothing short of embarrassing. Does anyone have a spare
they care to sell? Better still, does anyone have one with
the hole ‘‘expertly and symmetrically’’ cut in it already?

Lastly, I’ll get new A/C lines to run them lower in the
engine bay and come up from the bottom to attach to the
compressor. Any advice or pics on what you’ve done in this
regard? My set up is an L98 crate engine with a March
Performance Revolver Serpentine set up and they do sell A/C
line adapters to accommodate this

Thanks for your thoughts as always.–
Sean 86 VDP
Prior Lake, Minnesota, United States
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2

In reply to a message from Sean W sent Sat 2 Mar 2013:

Wow, $15-20,000 for paint. I’ll sell you my entire turn key xjs
vert for that! Do some research around town. I would imagine you
could do better. Good luck with your project.–
Rob Wade
Windsor Ontario, Canada
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3

In reply to a message from Rob Wade sent Sat 2 Mar 2013:

Thanks Rob. Yeah the heart wants what it wants. I still
have time to mull over the paint job but I’m looking to do
something Ala Paul Novak and yes it’s pricey. My VDP is my
second love. I will never get back my investment but not in
it to profit, just the joy.

http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1177827150

Actually I’ve been admiring your work for some time.–
Sean 86 VDP
Prior Lake, Minnesota, United States
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4

In reply to a message from Sean W sent Sat 2 Mar 2013:

Sean,

I’ve used both the factory fiberboard and ‘‘DEI Floor & Tunnel
Shield’’ from Summit Racing. No affiliation. The entire firewall
and tunnel to the back of the trans is covered with the DEI. I did
away with the factory oil sponge above the transmission. My plan
is to continue the same process as I work my way to the rear of the
car. No idea on the sound level yet. Engine is in the car, but
has not been fired yet. I can add more insulation from the inside.

My battery will be in the engine compartment - type 35 Optima - no
affiliation. I found a hold down from Wieland Machine. no
affiliation. The difficulty is with the rear clamp. The only way
to use this tray is to install the tray to the battery, then drop
the tray and battery into the engine compartment. Four bolts will
be epoxied into the tray to serve as studs. Nuts will have to be
fastened from under the tray in the interior of the car.

Good luck with your project

Regards,
Clyde Gantz

http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1330217189--
The original message included these comments:

I’ve noticed a couple of different approaches folks have
I guess my preference is to keep the battery in the engine

–
Clyde, '77 XJ12L
Canton, OH, United States
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5

In reply to a message from Clyde77XJ12L sent Sat 2 Mar 2013:

Both of my S1’s have Optima Red Tops with billet mounting pieces
available most everywhere. You will need a proper charger for these
types of batteries if the car is not driven regularly. Or, the life
of the Optima battery will be considerably shortened with
improper ‘‘maintenance charging’’.

I have converted the new two wires (HD Taylor)to side terminal
mounting for better clearance from the hood and the ability to
route them properly. Originality is not the theme in my cars under
the hood! Extra grounds and large feed wires for the large 140A
alternators and the PCM are required.

I used BeQuiet insulation on the firewall of both cars and on the
floors under the carpet. No insulation is used under the flooring
of the car above the transmissions…with proper floor insulation
the ‘‘oil catcher mat for the trans’’ is not needed. Neither Jag
leaks one drop of fluid…

Doing it all over today, I would put the same insulation in the
doors, under the headliner and behind the rear seat. You cannot
insulate too much…any additional that you can add behind the dash
inside the car will help. Be sure to use proper firewall grommets
with rubber holes for the incoming loom wiring parts. I would put
my PCM under the carpet in a wooden box under the passenger side
carpet. Currently it is on the passenger side fender well and just
does not ‘‘look good there’’.

It is too much trouble to post pictures with each posting on this
Forum, I have included a link to my SkyDrive:

https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=4437CF12C12B033E&id=4437CF12C12B033E%
21311–
The original message included these comments:

My battery will be in the engine compartment - type 35 Optima - no
affiliation. I found a hold down from Wieland Machine. no

–
'71 XJ6 383/200R, '72 XJ6 LT1/700R,'74 XJ6 383/700R
Glendora, CA, United States
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6

In reply to a message from Roger Mabry sent Sun 3 Mar 2013:

My two bits.

  1. No bonnett shield, it is bare. No issue heat or sound wise.
    However, I have an areosol can of ‘‘bed liner’’ that I may spray part
    of the undersde. The paint refuses my efforts to polish it.

  2. The oil blanket that was over the trans went to the landfill. No
    represussions.

  3. The bulkhead heat shield were in decent condition. I freshened
    them a bit with a sparay of silver.

  4. I constructed a support on the sing rods to hng the PCM from.
    The ribbed aluminum case just looked to good to tuck away. I have a
    spare in black powder coat!!

  5. I made a rack for all the relays in the center hanging from the
    VIN plate. it also includes a ground/earth buss bar.

  6. The engine fuses are hung from the support rods alond with the
    data access box. Easy access.

  7. My Yellow top and it’s Red top predecessor are side terminal as
    well as top. I use the side ones as that is the way my car came.

  8. I reconfigured the battery clamp by lowering the leg that went
    back to the bulkhead. The side screws now ahve rubber spacers.

  9. My after market harness by an not to be named supplier was
    partly bsre and partly in split corrugated loom. I wrapped the
    loose stuff in black vinyl tape. So far, so good.

  10. My filler cap is in the top hose. Thusly, the top rail is not
    molested.

  11. I had a useful talk with a Schumacher tech about btteries and
    smart chargers. I sold my ‘‘dumb’’ Schumacher for close to what I
    paid for it and bought new '‘smart’ Schumacher for agout twice
    that!! What else, as usual. It is really slick.

Wow, that is a lot of bucks for a prime paint job. I supect Paul
did a lot of the prep and strip and took the car back for
reassembly, leaving only the spray to the pro.

Carl

3.–
Carl Hutchins 1983 Jaguar XJ6 with LT1 and 1994 Jeep Grand
Walnut Creek, California, United States
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7

In reply to a message from cadjag sent Sun 3 Mar 2013:

Thanks for the input. It’s helpful. I found a battery at
Sear that will be a right fit. Will change the distributor
out and get rid of the CD box. I’ve also been thinking
about the relay rack. I’ll continue to think this through
but very much appreciate the pics, and ideas.–
Sean 86 VDP
Prior Lake, Minnesota, United States
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8

This is something I’m going through now as well. What started out as an LS1 swap, ended up being a discovery of rust on the firewall around the heater unit. So, along with the removal of the dash, I’ve gutted the entire engine bay.
I plan on of course fixing up the firewall, then filling in as many holes as possible in the engine bay. One thing I’ve noticed with many of the LS swaps is they can look a little untidy with hoses, wires and cables(like the factory engine bays IMO). I’d like to minimise this. In the Jaguar Specialties website’s gallery, the silver swapped XJ12 has the engine bay which I’m striving for. If you haven’t seen it, I suggest you have a look.
Anyway, here’s a pick of mine if you need to see one stripped.
Good luck,

Rob

9

I always liked the clean look of the LT1 and selected it over the LS1 for my Bitter SC swap (originally an Opel straight six) for that reason. The empty engine bay looks a lot like the XJ cars. By the way, a good way to kill engine compartment heat is to ceramic coat the exhaust…Jet Hot type stuff.

Yeah, I’m a little off topic…

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10

Sean:
Don’t know where to begin on so many items on a very ambitious project.

  1. I am known to some as cynical and a bit pernious. So, take this comment in those lights. 15K to 20K may not translate into a a paint job worth that many $'s. Is it quality or bragging rights???
    Way back when, guys used to boast of the many coats of their cellulose lacquered carts. True enough, they did look great. But, I recall on petty good painter claimed that as nonsense.
    Thin paint, most goes into the air and little on the car. A much lessor number of coats properly applied of a thicker paint costs less and looks as good or better…

  2. I left my radiator header panel intact. An adapter in the upper hose provides the filler cap.

  3. I had no issues with the silver insulating pad on the firewall. Mine was in good shape although a bit stained. A shot from rattle can of silver and it looks just fine.

  4. As the PCM for my LT! is designed for under hood placement, that is where it remained. And, not wanting the gargantuan wire splicing task!! I suspended mine from the wing braces. The fijnned alloy just looked too nice to hide.

  5. For my taste, the underhood battery location was fine.
    First, an Optima red top, then a yellow top and now an odd
    No name. All are just fine. With side post, there is no issue as to clearance. But, I did modify the top hold down to assure a lower location.

As the XJS cars use a boot location, I see no reason as to why nit would not work. Although a lot of cable leaves me a bit cynical.

  1. Back to paint. Preparation is every thing. DIY? Tehn get any decent painter to lay on a quality paint in a proper booth and you will get a great result. And a h… of lot more $'s will stay in you pocket.

Carl ,

da rasrt

11

I’ve tweaked the engine compartment quite a bit on my 86 VDP.

Relocating the battery and wiring it properly is a big undertaking. I rewired the battery-in-the boot on my Aston; it’s OK, but the long cables (even at 4/0) cause a voltage drop across the starter. That project used an Optima billet battery box with a top plate to protect the terminals from Hardin Marine. On the 86VDP, I left the battery in place; but reversed it, used an Optima billet tray from Boese Engineering, and made custom 4/0 cables.

DSCF0007.JPG1280×960 204 KB

Other worthwhile projects are:

  • Sanden R134a conversion on the AC. Eliminate the fuel cooler.
  • Replace and reroute vacuum hoses.
  • I would love to do a Megasquirt conversion, but local regulation do not allow.

Ron

12

Ron:

I like that hold down. were I to go to an Optima or even any other top post, I’d look into that low clamp method.

The side posts are puny. One on my bench with a screwed up - insert. A quick google found that not unknown and some sorta crude “fixes”.

Carl

13

I use a remote filler tank; it’s a Moroso, mounted to the passenger side fender, up by the radiator. It’s pressurized. I use a 3 core all aluminum radiator with no filler, so this worked great.

My PCM is located on the front driver’s side fender, across from the filler tank - it seemed to fit the best for the harness.

All of my connections to the interior of the car are made through the C204, C205 and C207 connectors. It’s neat and tidy, stashed away behind the glovebox.

My fuse block is the one integrated into the harness (i’m using a 96 Impala harness). One day I’ll strip out the stuff I’m not using (the SMOG pump, etc) and make a neat tidy box like i’ve seen around on the net.

The Battery lives where it’s always lived.

One thing out of the ordinary that I did was remove the stock steam pipe and went with rubber hose and fittings into the rear of the heads. I mostly did this because the fittings were pricey, and I wanted a neater hose routing (they tee into the heater hose now).

14

Tyler:

Good to hear from you. it’s been a while !!!

  1. Unless you have moved, how are you going to pass SMOG sans a SMOG pump?

  2. I chose to be different. It is in my genes ! My PCM in all it’s ribbed alloy glory just looked too nice to bury. So, I decided to 'feature" it. I made a cradle and suspended it from the wing sty rods.

  3. I removed the original rely rack from he cowl and fabbed a much longer one. Most of the relays are mounted there along with a common ground bus post.

My jaguar purrs, my old Jeep ails. Swapping in a needed fuel pump is herculean compared to the same in the Jaguar !!!

Carl