-----Original Message-----
From: Dr Gregory Andrachuk <@Gregory_Andrachuk>
To: xj@jag/lovers.org <xj@jag/lovers.org>
Cc: Paul Aslanian paslani1@swarthmore.edu
Date: Sunday, February 27, 2000 1:07 PM
Subject: jagcare 1This is the first installment of the Jagcare series: Today: body care, and
the front wings.
The front wings on the xj series cars are not interchangeable,
although
they look similar. Series 1 wings are quite scarce now, so some prudent
care
is in order. Although the wheel arch and other details changed, the
general
construction and fitting remained the same. The wings are bolted to the
car,
the bolts at the top being evident when the bonnet is opened. Later cars,
the 87 to 92 models use large torx-head screws instead of the hex bolts.
There are further fixings at the lower edge of the wing behind the front
wheel, accessible when the inner splash panel is removed.
There are two main points of corrosion on the wings: the first is at
the
headlamp surround. Mud and water are thrown up by the wheel and become
trapped here. This is a common problem with cars used in salty
environments,
but the Series 3 cars suffer less from this after 1981. While we are at
this
end of the wing, it should be noted that the air intake above the headlamp
is entirely UNused on climate controlled cars after 1981. Cars before this
date and cars with a heater unit only, do use this intake as a source of
fresh air. On climate controlled cars the intake tube is blanked off in
the
inner footwell panel, although the tubing is in place.
The most common place for corrosion is found behind the front wheel,
right around the Jaguar or Daimler badge. This inner wing area is sealed
from the elements by a spash panel and rubber seal; frequently the seal
fails and dirt, and moisture, sometimes salt-laden, finds its way in. The
problem can be compounded by the fact that sunroof-equipped cars have
their
front drain tubes empty into this cavity. The water in normal
circumstances
then exits via two large holes provided at the bottom edge of the wing. If
these holes become clogged by accumulated mud, the result is a bubbling
around the badge. Craig Sawyers pointed out that on his car the front
wings
had been replaced and the very bottom edge is a fold; this is true of the
factory fitted wings as well but this area is sealed by a wax coating at
the
factory. IF, however, there is a break in this seal, then water can be
trapped in the fold; in freezing conditions the seam can split, salt water
can enter and the cycle of corrosion begins.
It is a good idea to remove the front wheel, remove the inner panel
(bolts and screws; very easy), and to check this cavity. On one of my
cars,
the driver’s side cavity was full of damp mud! On all the others, these
cavities were absolutely dry and even had cobwebs; proof that the original
design is not faulty, PROVIDING the seal is intact. If you find mud or
dirt,
clean it thoroughly, vacuuming any dirt out of the folded seam, if
necessary. Then, spray a good quality, VERY THIN rust inhibitor in this
area, paying particular attention to the fold. I use a product called
RUSTCHECK which is made here in Canada (note to Canadians: available at
Canadian Tire); it is a hydrofuge product, (literally meaning that it
makes
water flee), effectively displacing water, and coating the metal. It is so
thin that it continues to creep, especially in warm weather, so it gets
EVERYWHERE it is supposed to get. There must be similar products used in
other countries, and I believe that Waxoyl makes a comparable item. Once
done, refit the seal using a bead of silicone sealant, fit the slash
panel,
and make a very careful visual check for integrity of the seal.
That is the care and feeding of the front wings. Please note that the
badges, contrary to what Thorley says, ARE “handed” left and right in
every
series, and are not interchangeable from side to side. The Leaper on the
Jaguar is running forward, of course. If yours is running in fear, then
you
need to switch them to the opposite side of the car. This is a sign of
body
work having been done. The Series 1 and 2 and early 3 to ‘82 used the same
plastic badge, in silver and black, except for the xj12 which was gold and
black. The 83 to 92 cars have a revised silver and black, metal and
plastic
badge. All badges have a rubber gasket and two pin fitting, except for the
very last models which are fitted using an adhesive backing, and no rubber
gasket. The Daimler badges, by the way, fitted in the S3 model, are the
traditional “D” as used on the wheel badges, and the grille and steering
wheel.
Lastly: ELBOWS OFF THE WING! If you look along the top edge of the
wing,
you may very well see some minor indentations. These are the imprints of
mechanics’ elbows. And even “more lastly” while we are at it: the
pinstripe-----Original Message-----
From: Dr Gregory Andrachuk <@Gregory_Andrachuk>
To: xj@jag-lovers.org xj@jag-lovers.org
Date: Sunday, February 27, 2000 4:10 PM
Subject: Fw: jagcare 1
(single to 82, double from 83 to 92; none on S1, almost always on S2)
should
not extend beyond the swage line (the “crease”). If it does, it not only
looks “wrong”, but is another clue to a repaint. Next installment: doors
Gregory