[Lumps!] Is this forum still alive?

Sad… so few messages these days!–
Tyler Werrin, 1984 Jaguar XJ6 Series 3 w/ 1994 Camaro t56
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Hi Tyler

I am still working hard on my 1972 XJ6 Daimler. I designed and laser cut
some new subframe mounts for the whole car. I know it will increase the
road noise but I want it much stiffer for handling reasons. They came
out really well. The paint is drying right now.

I now have an XJS rear swaybar all nicely painted ready ready to fit
with all new bushings. I have a set of KYB rear shocks ready to fit at
the same time. They are supposed to run well on these cars.

I am looking at upgrading the motor to 400HP. I will be checking out a
383 dual quad next week.

I also want to fit a hydraulic handbrake so I can kick the rear end out
when I want to do some drifting.

So loads of work going on here.

Cheers
Keith

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In reply to a message from tylerwerrin sent Sat 8 Oct 2016:

I think of it as not a lot of problems so few posts.
Would like to see some of Keith’s work though.

Actually, while I’m here any input on rear remote brake bleeders?–
The original message included these comments:

Sad… so few messages these days!


-Matt- S1 V12
Sydney, Australia
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In reply to a message from Motley sent Mon 10 Oct 2016:

Mine us going back together after full bare metal paint job,
fuel injection conversion and cold air kit.–
'71 XJ6 383/200R, 2015 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Eco Diesel
Glendora, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Motley sent Mon 10 Oct 2016:

Motley,
Remote Bleeders.

Bought them, that’s the short story. They work, now.

The long story: The ones I bought were stainless, bleeders
were stainless. Check valve kind of bleeders. They would
not seal - bleeder to hose. Cranked so tight I thought I’d
break the bleeder off in the hose. Tech line said that
happens some times and I could return them. Kept thinking
they were sealing. Spongy brakes. Every time I took them
apart - no full circle seal.

Cure - replaced the bleeders with brass bleeders. Still a
two man job to bleed - but they sealed!–
Clyde, '77 XJ12L, '60 MK2
Canton, OH, United States
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In reply to a message from Clyde77XJ12L sent Mon 10 Oct 2016:

Now that this post has migrated towards brake issues, has
anyone used or had experience with the Motive brand
pressurized brake bleeder system? It’s a one gallon sized
jug that looks like a small weed sprayer bottle. Instead of
a sprayer wand, the supply hose attached to a cap that
screws onto the break fluid reservoir. When it’s good, it
works great! The one I have is only a couple of years old
and the polyethylene bottle is suffering from age related
cracking so it no long holds pressure.–
Bob Loftus
Gilbert/AZ, United States
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In reply to a message from Bob Loftus sent Mon 10 Oct 2016:

I have one that’s much older than that and still looks new.
Maybe I’m just lucky. I don’t keep brake fluid in it
between uses, but I doubt if you do either.–
The original message included these comments:

works great! The one I have is only a couple of years old
and the polyethylene bottle is suffering from age related
cracking so it no long holds pressure.


Bob Wilkinson, 73 XJ6
Saint Louis, MO, United States
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In reply to a message from Robert Wilkinson sent Mon 10 Oct 2016:

Bleeding brakes by yourself.

I use a small jar,… one third full of clean brake fluid.

I then attach a 10 foot section of clear 1/4 plastic tubing
to the bleeder valve.

With one end attached to the open bleeder - (slip the end
over the bleeder and make sure you have it tightly fit over
the bleeder so air can not enter the tubing).

The other end is submerged in the jar of fluid (1/3 filled).
Use some tape to secure the tube to the jar with its end
below the surface of the fluid.

As you pump the brake pedal (master cylinder full) you will
be able to see the brake fluid coming along inside the tube
(advantage of clear tubing) mixed with some bubbles.
Eventually there will be no bubbles (do not let the fluid in
the master cylinder get too low -keep an eye on it as you
slowly press and release the pedal,… replenishing as necessary)

Having a 10 ft section of hose allows you to place the jar
in a location where you can see the fluid in the tube as it
empties into the jar.

Once you have ‘‘no bubbles’’ situation, in the fluid coming
down the tube, close off the bleeder valve.

Start with the brake bleeder valve furthest away from the
master cylinder.–
Alyn
Seattle WA, United States
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I suggest you add this to the FAQs page.

Bleeding brakes by yourself.

I use a small jar,… one third full of clean brake fluid.

I then attach a 10 foot section of clear 1/4 plastic tubing
to the bleeder valve.

With one end attached to the open bleeder - (slip the end
over the bleeder and make sure you have it tightly fit over
the bleeder so air can not enter the tubing).

The other end is submerged in the jar of fluid (1/3 filled).
Use some tape to secure the tube to the jar with its end
below the surface of the fluid.

As you pump the brake pedal (master cylinder full) you will
be able to see the brake fluid coming along inside the tube
(advantage of clear tubing) mixed with some bubbles.
Eventually there will be no bubbles (do not let the fluid in
the master cylinder get too low -keep an eye on it as you
slowly press and release the pedal,… replenishing as necessary)

Having a 10 ft section of hose allows you to place the jar
in a location where you can see the fluid in the tube as it
empties into the jar.

Once you have ‘‘no bubbles’’ situation, in the fluid coming
down the tube, close off the bleeder valve.

Start with the brake bleeder valve furthest away from the
master cylinder.

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In reply to a message from hole19@cox.net sent Mon 24 Oct 2016:

Just to touch base.

My lump, although with remaining
issues has been primary transportation
for months.

Venerable Jeep on CA’s ‘‘non-op’’ status
for various reasons.

The lump performed admirably.

Both got an oil and filter change.
Each enjoyed that

Jeep’s Smog, insurance and registration
issues resolved. Back ‘‘On the road
again’’.

Cars on the ‘‘ready line’’. Other issues
to attend to.

I thought I was retired???

Carl
aiow

vgee ough jugh
vusrt ar–
1983 Jaguar lump 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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In reply to a message from Cadjag sent Tue 8 Nov 2016:

Still purring. Now the Jeep is
back in operation. Reasons for
hiatus not mechanical. Other stuff.

But, the list of stuff to fix
grows. Not auto related!!!

  1. Cut two big trunk sized limbs
    off Bay tree in front yard. Two
    dead and the other going way out
    in the wrong direction. Just asking
    to be toppled in a winter storm.

One little electric chain saw quit
on me. Tossed a chain and will not keep
it. On the bench seeking a fix.

But, Paul Bunyan needs to keep
cutting slash for removal. Got
another at ACE. sixty bucks. a real
deal.

Tankless water heater in a fuss.
Two sessions with a tech got it fired up.
short lived… But, I learned to
trick it into firing up. So finishing that
is on hold.

Cold as a … So, outsie stuff
will be deterred a bit. And rain
in the next two days.

Oh, conversion of Jaguar outboard
lamps to 7’’ progress stalled.

And paper work issues to resolve…

Carl–
The original message included these comments:

Jeep’s Smog, insurance and registration
issues resolved. Back ‘‘On the road
again’’.


1983 Jaguar lump 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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In reply to a message from Cadjag sent Fri 18 Nov 2016:

Carl

I found out that the PO had installed Halogen dual filament
lights in the outer seven inch buckets… he took the power
wire (Blue/White) and moved it to the outer lights.

My inner lights - Cibie driving lights - were no longer
functional… yesterday I wired in a relay and ran power with
fuse to the lights… I control them separately from a ski
slop switch.

Nice to have the additional lighting… but if you want to
keep your inner high beams… only use a one filament bulb.–
The original message included these comments:

Oh, conversion of Jaguar outboard
lamps to 7’’ progress stalled.


'71 XJ6 383/200R, 2015 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Eco Diesel
Glendora, CA, United States
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I am still alive ! The heretic XK120se SBC is still storming the roads here in southern Arizona. Have to rebuild the pressure regulator (Holley) as it has a leak,
I also spend time in my 53 Studebaker Commander also SBC and suspension brakes AC etc all modern.

Good to see some familar names !

1 Like

Roger:

Lamp issue deferred. Your temps high 60’s !!
Ours not quite high 50’ s !!!

My Rock Auto sourced out board 7’s are dual filament.
The inboards are fresh Rock Auto sourced as well and installed. A bit more hassle than seemed necessary!!

Two filaments as well. I think not. High only. I forgot…

Ordinary city driving. Outboards on low.

Dark country roads, all four on high beams !!

Under the bumper fogs/drivers way down the
Jaguar task list.

Today, add coolant and burp. Peak Sierra animal friendly brand source identified !!! CARQUEST !!!

Carl

Greetings All,

I pull vacuum through bleed screw with a Mighty Vac. One man job, no issues.

Interesting about poster’s problem and switching to brass bleed screws.

Just lurking, haven’t given up on Jaguar power yet but might with one of the V12’s. Wanted to do a Ford, but since they sold them…nah.