[Lumps!] Maiden Voyage under LSx power

Went for my maiden voyage yesterday with the 5.3 LSx motor and
4L60e. Some minor problems, but overall was as expected and the
culmination of a lot of work.

I have a few problems

-Power steering pump is grumbling at idle � I guess there was a
reason that pump was in the junk box- pulled another one off a
Volvo 240 this morning and will change it out in the next couple of
weeks. My steering rack is leaking too � even after I put some of
that Lucas stop-leak in the fluid � I think there is a new rack in
my future

-Temperature is reading hot just by turning the key on. Must have
the temp lead shorted or the new Jag temp sender I bought is NFG
-Tach is only reading half value � probably will fix this when the
PCM is tuned by upping the pulse count from the PCM rather than
digging the tach out of the dash to modify it.

-The transmission shift lever only moves through about 2/3 of the
available range on the console. I may have to modify the selector
level on the transmission to get the range of motion correct.

  • The two 40 series Flowmasters are a little noisy but bearable.
    I�m going to order some Magnaflow spun cats as soon as I have a
    couple of nickels to rub together- thanks for the recommendation Rob

-I can hear something scraping when the steering wheel is at full
lock. I�m wondering if I�m going to need some spacers for the XJR
wheels I put on.

-My three-relay low-high fan controller is only turning one fan on
high for cooling � I had it working on both high and low when I
first built it. Need to look for failed relays or loose
connections and have the PCM programmed to turn them on.

-Still need a K&N filter, the charcoal canister hoses hooked up, a
PCV valve, AC and cruise control. Need the PN safety switch
installed and the wire hooked up that controls the transmission
torque converter lockup from the brake switch.

Next step is to put new differential mounts in so it can go to the
tuner and be put on the dyno without fear of the rear end falling
out!–
Phil Dooley
Phoenix, AZ, United States
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In reply to a message from Phil Dooley sent Thu 27 May 2010:

Phil:

Congrats. Nothing like the first run, pure exhiliration.

The groan may merely air in the pump and or lines and should
respond to lock to lock turns with a full resevoir.

As to N/S, if you can lay your hands on a XJS tower, it is all
there.

Andrew’s site has a neat diagram for the torque converter olock
in/out off the brake switch.

They sure are fun, huh?

Carl–
The original message included these comments:

-Power steering pump is grumbling at idle � I guess there was a
reason that pump was in the junk box- pulled another one off a
Volvo 240 this morning and will change it out in the next couple of
weeks. My steering rack is leaking too � even after I put some of
that Lucas stop-leak in the fluid � I think there is a new rack in
my future
PCV valve, AC and cruise control. Need the PN safety switch
installed and the wire hooked up that controls the transmission
torque converter lockup from the brake switch.
Next step is to put new differential mounts in so it can go to the
tuner and be put on the dyno without fear of the rear end falling


Carl Hutchins 1983 Jaguar XJ6 with LT1 and 1994 Jeep Grand
Walnut Creek, California, United States
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In reply to a message from cadjag sent Thu 27 May 2010:

The groan is because the pump is hammered. I had it on a sand
buggy and took it off because it was making noise. I hate to throw
stuff away, but I’ve been collecting junk so long I often don’t
remember why it is in the parts pile!

Will post link to pictures as soon as they are approved–
Phil Dooley
Phoenix, AZ, United States
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In reply to a message from Phil Dooley sent Thu 27 May 2010:

Great news. I also run the XJR rims and I also have the rub at full
lock, but honestly, how many times are you at full lock. For me its
a very rare occurance AND I personally do no like spacers, so I
just chose to live with it. No regrets.–
Rob Wade
Windsor Ontario, Canada
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In reply to a message from Rob Wade sent Thu 27 May 2010:

Heres whats on mine. The 45* angled inlet makes it easier to get
the cat closer to the motor for a faster lite off.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-59976/--
Rob Wade
Windsor Ontario, Canada
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In reply to a message from Phil Dooley sent Thu 27 May 2010:

Hi Phil,

great that you are up and running.

I’m not sure what vintage your car is but if it is not a series 3
with the short powerhead rack I thoroughly recommend changing the
rack to a series 3 unit when you get around to addressing the rack
leak. More steering weight and better feel. You need to use the
longer series 3 lower steering shaft as well, but otherwise it’s a
bolt-in job. I have heard the threads for the hydraulic lines can
be different, but have never experienced this myself and have done
this swap on two different series 1 XJs - on one occasion I did
find I had to change to metric steering rod ends.

Cheers, Andrew Robertson, New Zealand
383 Xj s1–
The original message included these comments:

Went for my maiden voyage yesterday with the 5.3 LSx motor and
4L60e. Some minor problems, but overall was as expected and the
culmination of a lot of work.
I have a few problems
weeks. My steering rack is leaking too � even after I put some of
that Lucas stop-leak in the fluid � I think there is a new rack in
my future


Andrew Robertson
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In reply to a message from Andrew Robertson sent Fri 28 May 2010:

Andrew-

You’ve got me really confused - Series 3?

I thought the XJS’s were pre-HE, HE and facelift models. Do you
mean a facelift model? Will that rack fit the earlier cars?

Here’s a few photos of my car-

http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1275069861

I think the rack says ‘‘Adwest’’ or something similar on it.–
Phil Dooley
Phoenix, AZ, United States
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It’s not too complicated- all 78-87 fuel injected XJ6 cars and all XJS models 76-92 use the same (short tower) steering rack (Adwest style). The 93-96 XJS models use a ZF-made aluminum case version that’s backwards compatible to the older cars (I ran one in my 89 convertible). The steering shaft, tie rod ends, and even power steering hoses will all fit. It’s a better rack, but hugely expensive compared to the old ones. However, it’s much more reliable as well- fewer leaks.

Trying to trade in an older model for the ZF version will get you hit with a big core charge (ouch). Used ones are expensive too…

If your rack is leaking, try some if the power steering leak sealer you find at the auto parts store. it works surprising well…

But a noisy PS pump may not have done you any favors- I hope nothing metallic made its way into your rack

Andrew

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In reply to a message from A sent Fri 28 May 2010:

Phil,

Congratulations on the milepost! I have been wondering how
your project was going. I am still collecting the parts
needed to convert an LS? to LS1 accessory layout. FYI,
after the fact I found out that GM Performance Parts offers
a ‘‘kit’’ for just that purpose with all new components and
includes the hardware, probably at much less cost than piece
mealing like I am doing.

On a postive note I have a shot at a low miles 6.2L L92 long
block for a real good price, so I may be switching gears
again if it all works out. That VVT technology is awesome
for a street motor.

Andrew, thanks for the tip on the steering rack. I have
changed mine out 3 times in the past year and still have
leaks. (And yes the last time I replaced all the lines,
pump, and reservoir to insure no contamination!)–
FredShenk
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In reply to a message from Phil Dooley sent Fri 28 May 2010:

Hi Phil,

my mistake - didn’t pick up that you have an XJS - my comments
apply to XJ sedans which changed racks when Series 3 cars were
introduced in around 78. Andrew has put you straight on the XJS
variations.

Cheers, Andrew Robertson–
The original message included these comments:

You’ve got me really confused - Series 3?


Andrew Robertson
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In reply to a message from Andrew Robertson sent Sat 29 May 2010:

Thanks everyone for the input - will start hunting down a
replacement rack as soon as I get the new pump on. The XJ6
interchangeability information expands the possibilities a
great deal.

I tried some of the products you add to the fluid but I knew
it was a long shot since the boots were full of oil when I
pulled the V-12 out to put the V8 in

Will be ordering the spun cats from Magnaflow next week per
the suggestion. I’m going to use the ones with the offset
inlet/outlet and I should be able to get them close enough
to the motor to light-off quickly

I’m a little concerned about emission inspection. The truck
motor I used didn’t have EGR, but the Corvette exhaust
manifolds have a port for the EGR supply and the LS1 intake
has a provision for EGR (both manifolds have the ports blocked}

Anybody who’s been through the drill at the inspection
stations (especially in AZ) - any insight would be appreciated.

As always, I appreciate your comments and suggestions.

Phil–
Phil Dooley
Phoenix, AZ, United States
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Phil

Belated congratulations on your progress.

Just ran mine ('83 XJ6 350 TPI) through in NW Phoenix for the fourth
time. Each time they checked the presence of catalytic converter(s)
and a fuel evaporative canister, the seal on the gas filler lids, and
did the emissions test.

Wes Channell

Anybody who’s been through the drill at the inspection
stations (especially in AZ) - any insight would be appreciated.

As always, I appreciate your comments and suggestions.

Phil

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In reply to a message from hole19@cox.net sent Mon 31 May 2010:

Phil:

The only time I had an issue, other than the original inspection
after the lumpectomy, was last year. the referee wasjn’t pleasedm
with the after market air cleaners. I have a K & N knock off. he
wanted to see the CARB approval label. It doesn’t have one, or if
it did, I lost it somewhere. I argued that it got through the
original by special referee and one othe standard, so as it really
had nothing to do with emsions, it should be OK. he relented, it
passed. I use a K&N crank breather for the airpump intake!!

You might be able to argue that the your donor engine has all the
emisions equipment required in the donor vehicle and as such should
pass. Heck, my Jeep has no EGR and is bone stock.

Our reg’s are badly outdated. Far be it from me to push for an
update, who knows what would result from our disfunctional
legislature.

Keep it coming!!

Carl–
The original message included these comments:

Just ran mine ('83 XJ6 350 TPI) through in NW Phoenix for the fourth
time. Each time they checked the presence of catalytic converter(s)
and a fuel evaporative canister, the seal on the gas filler lids, and
did the emissions test.


Carl Hutchins 1983 Jaguar XJ6 with LT1 and 1994 Jeep Grand
Walnut Creek, California, United States
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In reply to a message from Phil Dooley sent Thu 27 May 2010:

Phil,

Exciting stuff - congrats!

As far as that tach signal goes, your PCM tuner should be
able to take care of that. I know for sure they can double
your signal.

-Dave–
The original message included these comments:

-Tach is only reading half value � probably will fix this when the
PCM is tuned by upping the pulse count from the PCM rather than
digging the tach out of the dash to modify it.


1985 XJ6 LS1 project - Looking for a 3.08 Rear End!
Pittsburgh, PA, United States
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In reply to a message from Dave Y. sent Sun 6 Jun 2010:

Andrew of Jaguar Specialties has a converter that will do the same
thing without having to reprogram the PCM.–
lockheed 89 XJS Cpe/97 LT1, 96 XJS Cv 4.0 Austin TX/Miami FL
Miami, FL, United States
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In reply to a message from lockheed sent Sun 6 Jun 2010:

I plan to be editing the PCM software and the license points for
the tuning software are a sunk cost anyway, so I will change the
tach output then. I will set up the dual cooling fan switch points,
delete the downstram O2 and delete the nuisance codes. I prefer to
have the PCM control as many things as possible as it reduces
complexity

I did hook it up the other day to see if I could get the needle to
move at all. I tried it with just the wire from the PCM and with a
500 ohn resistor to a power source on the signal - got nothing.

The car is up on jack stands again, unfortunatly. The rack was
leaking so bad that I feared I would run out of power steering
fluid while driving it. The rack is out now and I found a shop
here in Phoenix that has them rebuilt for $200 and a ‘lifetime’
guarantee.

While I was pulling the rack I noticed the lower control arm
bushings are shot. Looks like I will have to replace those too
before I can get back on the road.

Oh well, if it isn’t the well, its the barn–
Phil Dooley
Phoenix, AZ, United States
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