It seems that the voltmeter on the XJ6 is merely an indicator as it
is stabilized by an apparent resistor so as todampen the normal
fluctuating voltage output of the alternator and the variables on
the accessories.
A rough means of measuring alternator output is with a VOM across
the bsattery posts to compare at rest values with engine running at
various rpm.
So, an undampened VOM seemed like a good idea in the cabin.
I found an extra plug to insert in the cigarette (cigar) outlet.
I found two suitable patrch cords in my collection and spliced them
in to the plug. I was careful to get the posts correct to match the
ones on my digistal VOM. The continuit feature of the VOM verified
that.
Then in to lighter insert in the Jaguar. Zero outpurt switch on or
off or engine running or not running. Pushing it in failed to show
any signs of heating the element to light the imaginary stogie.
Conclusion, the outlet is dead electrickly!!
I went thropugh the same process on the Jeep. Teh heep seems to
have a stabilized meter as well, but reacts much faster than the
jaguar counterpart. I found the meter will read the Jeep voltage in
real time very nicely!! Ranged from about 11.9 to 13.4 as to engine
rpms and engine off/on.
So, if I want this to work on the jaguar, I am going to have to
remove the tripo computer and see if I csan get the cigsr lighter
out and fix it or find a replacement for it.
I swear it used to work when I used the cell phone patch cord on
it!! but, that was a decade ago. Yow, that long???
More to do?
Carl–
Carl Hutchins 1983 Jaguar XJ6 with LT1 and 1994 Jeep Grand
Walnut Creek, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from cadjag sent Sat 25 Jul 2009:
Update on real time voltage fluctuation.
I decided to look in the owner’s manual as to a fuse. Sucess?
Yes and no. There is an in line fuse holder, but it is behind the
right cheek by the rear of the console! gotta take the car apart to
check and/or change a fuse? Yup, it is a Jaguar after all.
The manual also said some models have a separate lighter for rear
seat passengers. Of course, it is not mine!! Probably, VDP’s!!!
Mebbe tomorrow, I’ll open and look. Taht may bve changed as well
since I found my missing pencil solder iron. Right in the solder
tools box, of course??
Carl–
The original message included these comments:
So, if I want this to work on the jaguar, I am going to have to
remove the tripo computer and see if I csan get the cigsr lighter
out and fix it or find a replacement for it.
In reply to a message from cadjag sent Sat 25 Jul 2009:
Status:
Removed the cheek panel. Darn, son has my HF security set with all
manner of drives including POZI!! But, another little ''jewler’s box
had one that wss just sbout right.
Sure are a lot of wires and connectors in there, includiong ones
that are ‘‘taped off’’ Wondewr wehat those are? I found the inline
fuse plastic holder. Fuse failed continuity test. New fuse and
I now have real undampedn votage numbers in real time !
But, battery is down??? So, on with the Schumacher dumb charger
at 10 amps.
I suspect the Optima is at about the end.
Carl–
The original message included these comments:
Mebbe tomorrow, I’ll open and look. Taht may bve changed as well
since I found my missing pencil solder iron. Right in the solder
tools box, of course??
In reply to a message from cadjag sent Sun 26 Jul 2009:
Carl:
My Autoxray scanner has ‘‘real time’’ mode. I used it today to
monitor the alternator after finally getting it working properly.
Robert Wilkenson figured out the problem, a new Napa pigtail plug
was purchased, wired up per Bob and it works perfectly. Plus, the
Jaguar warning light works as designed. 14.7V at idle and 159 AMPs.
I just had to replace the Optima in the same car. Have not idea how
old it was - came with the '72 S1 with no receipts at all. They
work great - have them in both S1 cars.–
The original message included these comments:
In reply to a message from Roger Mabry sent Sun 26 Jul 2009:
Roger;
I forgot to check my scanner and see if it has a real time voltage
reader! I still have a disc to up date it. Well, one of these days.
Since I lost my wife, I am also the house keeper. But, that isn’t
new as she was ill for a long time and I was her caregiver and
housekeeper.
My Jeep lives fine oin mid twelves at reat and mis thirteen’s on
revving up.
Aren’t yours a bit high?
Son says the electronics don’t like the higher voltages. Of course,
they don’t like low voltage either, pesky picky things.
So, I am about to conclude it’s the Optima having reached the end.
And the alternator and it’s connections are OK.
??
Carl–
The original message included these comments:
My Autoxray scanner has ‘‘real time’’ mode. I used it today to
monitor the alternator after finally getting it working properly.
Robert Wilkenson figured out the problem, a new Napa pigtail plug
was purchased, wired up per Bob and it works perfectly. Plus, the
Jaguar warning light works as designed. 14.7V at idle and 159 AMPs.
I just had to replace the Optima in the same car. Have not idea how
old it was - came with the '72 S1 with no receipts at all. They
work great - have them in both S1 cars.
In reply to a message from cadjag sent Mon 27 Jul 2009:
Carl:
I updated my scanner recently and the improvements were enormous.
Now I can datalog the information. Being able to see in real time
what is happening is great. Helped to compare those engine temp
readings to the Jaguar gauge. 180F = R and 190F = M in Normal.
These LT1 engines run much warmer before turning on the stock fans.
That was the start up voltage with the battery partially depleted
due to the prior testing. The specs with the alternator card show
this setting and the 159 AMPs at freeway speeds (meaning the
alternator is being spun fast in RPMs).
It is totally normal now and just has the high AMP capability and
is pretty chrome plated. It was setup to work well at idle/low RPMs
due to the high amount of time it will spend in stop and go traffic
with the AC working. The PO spent a lot of money and never did get
to enjoy it working properly at all. Also put in the orignal Optima
that died over 3-4 years of age.
EFI cars like the constant voltage to fire the injectors properly
all the time. Below 12V it does not run well at all.
I am happy now that it is all working well and only have the rear
defroster connections to clean up and all the electrical stuff
is ‘‘behind me’’.
On to improvements like variable windshield wipers, a headlight on
warning indicator and getting the GM AC parts installed and working.
The recently converted quartz clock even keeps accurate time!–
The original message included these comments:
I forgot to check my scanner and see if it has a real time voltage
reader! I still have a disc to up date it. Well, one of these days.
Son says the electronics don’t like the higher voltages. Of course,
they don’t like low voltage either, pesky picky things.
In reply to a message from Roger Mabry sent Mon 27 Jul 2009:
Roger;
My alternator is just stock GM probably 94 amps for the Fleetwood
Brougham it came from.
I misread you post. Pesky decimals!!
It’s 159 amps, not 15.9 volts. Big difference.
So, I think my alternator is probably fine. I’ll update the scanner
and check it again.
And, I guess it’s battery shopping next. Prelim says Optima 180 &
tax and Quick Start 800 CCA at 100.00 & tax.
More shopping to do.
Carl–
The original message included these comments:
It is totally normal now and just has the high AMP capability and
is pretty chrome plated. It was setup to work well at idle/low RPMs
due to the high amount of time it will spend in stop and go traffic
with the AC working. The PO spent a lot of money and never did get
to enjoy it working properly at all. Also put in the orignal Optima
that died over 3-4 years of age.
EFI cars like the constant voltage to fire the injectors properly
all the time. Below 12V it does not run well at all.
I am happy now that it is all working well and only have the rear
defroster connections to clean up and all the electrical stuff
is ‘‘behind me’’.