Looking through at some of what the pro’s offer in the way of
mounts I thought some of you might be interested in the plans for
mine.
Grand total $27
Old timber for Jig - $0
Steel - $5
Couple of hacksaw blades to cut the steel - $2
Twisted my panel beaters arm to accept a $20 for the welding
A couple of peaceful hours in the shed away from kids and wife -
priceless.
In reply to a message from Dene sent Tue 8 Jul 2008:
The mounts look good and should work fine as long as there are no
fatigue issues with the welds. Since the engine sits further back,
what alterations were necessary to the down pipes from the rams
horm exhaust manifold to clear the steering mechanism? What sort
of transmission mounting did you use in moving everything back?
Personally, I have had issues with the Suncoast mounts not having
adequate clearance at the top edges from the engine motor mounts’
lower surface to allow easy alignment and insertion of the motor
mount thru bolts. It appears that your design resolves this
problem. I had been thinking of coming up with a mount from the
chasis that uses the later and newer design motor mount with the
rubber being captured within the structure of the engine mount,
rather than trusting the rubber glued to the mount and mechanical
safety stops. I have already had failures of that type of mount.–
lockheed
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FYI- that alignment issue you mention has to do the the rubber overmolding of one side of the rubber engine isolator. It seems that over the years as the engine mount isolators Suncoast (and Jaguar Specialties) details to use on the conversion began to be manufactured overseas (ie, India). In the pocket of the engine mount isolator where our engine mount adaptor sits, some manufacturers are adding unnecessary extra rubber, sometimes as much is 3/8". This extra rubber in the interface area pushes the adaptor down and out of alignment for the thru bolt. The fix?? Use a utility knife and cut the extra rubber back up to the underlying steel base. This does not touch the rubber between the 2 sides of the isolator, so no strength or durability is affected. Note- the original GM versions never had this extra rubber…
I hope that clarifies it.
-Personally, I have had issues with the Suncoast mounts not
having
adequate clearance at the top edges from the engine motor
mounts’
lower surface to allow easy alignment and insertion of the
motor
mount thru bolts. xt only
Trans mount is the bog stock TH350 rubber mount bolted to a steel
tongue bolted to the orginal jag mount points. (Imagine a T, with
spacers to get the height right)
As with any welding make sure its done by someone who knows what
they are doing. I tacked the mounts and then gave them to my
panelbeater who welded them inside an out. These mounts will last
and fatigue wont be an issue.
I use extractors so I couldn’t comment on rams horns fit, but it
shouldn’t be a problem. These mounts position the motor to give
more clearance for the headers to go down and around the steering.–
Dene
Auckland, New Zealand
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It is true that the extra rubber needs to be cut out. I had
already done that, and still had interference problems with actual
metal to metal rub marks on the mounts. I had to remove the
Suncoast mounts and grind a bit on those areas that had the rub
marks on the top surfaces that fit into the motor mount pockets.
This was with motor mounts from two different manufacturers. As
mentioned in my previous post, I had one of those mounts separate
at the bonded surface, and thus bought another pair from another
manufacturer, and still had the interference problem. If you
recall, I queried you about the motor mounts you were using.–
lockheed
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