Fellow Listers
I need a little help at the mid-lumping point.
1: Can anyone help with the Vacuum Hose Routing, possibly a diagram or
schematic (this is normally shown on a decal on the donor vehicle).
2: Info on installing the TCC 3 Diode mod. Mainly wiring instructions or
schematic.
3: Wiring to USS Buffer, again wiring instructions or schematic would be
great.
We know what all the above does; it�s installation and hook up we�re not
sure on.
Donor Engine and Tranny is a 350 (5.7) TBI with a 700/R4 from a 92 GMC
1500
4X2 Pick-Up.
Recipient Vehicle is an early 1982 XJ 6 known to be in stock
configuration. Thus the car is one of the last with a cable-driven
speedo and precedes the installation of the trip computer.
Sources checked: We have the Jag and generic truck manuals, Mike Nells
and JTR books, Jag conversions and TBI-TPI addition. I have searched the
archives to no avail. If it�s there, sorry I�ve missed it. After
providing the local GM dealer with every number stamped on the engine
and ancillary components they were unable to supply the vacuum routing
decal without the original vehicle VIN number. This we do not have (big
mistake). The truck�s out of here, crushed, shredded, gone.
Any help would be appreciated, Cheers
Roy
82 XJ6 in-lumpo
Fellow Listers
I need a little help at the mid-lumping point.
2: Info on installing the TCC 3 Diode mod. Mainly wiring instructions or
schematic.
??? Never heard of this before, can you elaborate? If you are using
computer control of the TCC (Torque Converter Clutch, I presume), no mods
should be necessary. Of course, a switch/relay actuated by the brake pedal
to interrupt the circuit to the TCC when brake pedal is pressed is essential
for safety.
3: Wiring to USS Buffer, again wiring instructions or schematic would be
great.
Don’t know about this, I would try to obtain the most accurate wiring
diagrams for donor vehicle you can.
We know what all the above does; it’s installation and hook up we’re not
sure on.
Donor Engine and Tranny is a 350 (5.7) TBI with a 700/R4 from a 92 GMC
1500
4X2 Pick-Up.
Recipient Vehicle is an early 1982 XJ 6 known to be in stock
configuration. Thus the car is one of the last with a cable-driven
speedo and precedes the installation of the trip computer.
Any help would be appreciated, Cheers
Roy
82 XJ6 in-lumpo
Sorry I don’t know more about the details of your particular configuration,
Colleen
79 XJ-S enhanced with TPI 350/T700----- Original Message -----
From: “Lesley and Roy Johnson” Royandlesley@telus.net
To: “Lumps Site” lumps@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 7:56 PM
Subject: [Lumps!] Vacuum Routing
I’ve read with interest on this list the messages about the weight of the small block GM V8 engine vs. the Jaguar I6 engine.
Recently there was discussion about the handling and spring rates, etc. It made me wonder about the weight of the big block GM V8
vs. the Jaguar, I’m certain I’ve heard the 454 GM is about the same weight as the Jaguar engine (maybe almost identical if the big
block is equipped with aluminum heads). I know it’s a tighter fit, but I suspect it would match the Jaguar suspension better than
the 350???
These big block engines are fairly available and I’m guessing (big guess here) they are cheaper per horsepower/torque than the small
block engine?
<< These big block engines are fairly available and I’m guessing (big guess
here) they are cheaper per horsepower/torque than the small
block engine? >>
Well, taking a look at the issue of Popular Hot Rodding that’s sitting next
to me, I see here some interesting numbers. Jim Pace (www.paceparts.com) has
some nice crate engines. Here’s one 383 that makes 383 and 415 hp/tq for
$2,679. There’s also a ZZ4 that makes 355/400 for $3,229, and a standard 350
that makes 330/380 for $2,000. On the big block side We’ve got a 454 that
makes 425 and 500, for $4,290, a 502 that makes 450 and 550 for $4,972, and
a 502 with 510 and 550 for $7,200.
Now if you just wanted to take the engine out of the crate and leave it at
that, then of course you’d want to go with the big blocks. But if I were in
your shoes, instead of spending $7,200 on that last 502, i’d buy the 383.
With the leftover money, I’d buy new heads (let’s say $1,000), a new cam
($300), exhaust components ($1,000), intake ($300), chip ($300), and fuel
injection programmer ($700). These prices are estimates. But for those
things, I’d get a total of around probably 475 hp and torque. I could also go
another route and just buy a Vortech supercharger, and that’d work too. The
thing about working with big blocks is that although you can make massive
amounts of power and torque with them, parts are fewer and generally more
expensive. You want an engine that’s easy to work with, has literally
thousands of parts available, and has every single part and option detailed
and has had countless millions before you work on it, small block Chevy is
the way to go. If you’re un a budget, this is especially true. I saw a
Popular Hot Rodding buildup of a 327 that made 450 hp for around $2,500 or
$3,000.
Good post, Ted. The Goodwrench 330 horse small block has to be the bargain
of all bargains…all things taken into consideration. As revealed by your
price quotes, GM is very proud of the BB motors. If one was in the mood for
some DIY work, a garden variety used 454 could be treated to a routine
overhaul and relatively cheaply built to a mild state of tune which would
be ideal for a 4200 pound XJ6 with a 2.88 axle, i.e.: 350 horsepower at
perhaps 4500 rpm and 500 lbs of torque about 2500 rpm or so. With a
relatively small four-barrel for good throttle response you’d have a sweet
cruiser with gobs of pull. Fuel injection ? All the better but not if
you’re going on the cheap.
Not necessarily advocating this or saying it would be my first choice in a
lumped Jag but it IS a possibility !
BTW, I’m pretty sure the lumps home page has a link to a chart of engine
weights…
Doug Dwyer
Longview, Washington USA
<< These big block engines are fairly available and I’m guessing (big
guess
here) they are cheaper per horsepower/torque than the small
block engine? >>
Well, taking a look at the issue of Popular Hot Rodding that’s sitting
next
to me, I see here some interesting numbers. Jim Pace (www.paceparts.com)
has
some nice crate engines. Here’s one 383 that makes 383 and 415 hp/tq for
$2,679. There’s also a ZZ4 that makes 355/400 for $3,229, and a standard
350
that makes 330/380 for $2,000. On the big block side We’ve got a 454 that
makes 425 and 500, for $4,290, a 502 that makes 450 and 550 for $4,972,
and
a 502 with 510 and 550 for $7,200.
Now if you just wanted to take the engine out of the crate and leave it at
that, then of course you’d want to go with the big blocks. But if I were
in
your shoes, instead of spending $7,200 on that last 502, i’d buy the 383.
With the leftover money, I’d buy new heads (let’s say $1,000), a new cam
($300), exhaust components ($1,000), intake ($300), chip ($300), and fuel
injection programmer ($700). These prices are estimates. But for those
things, I’d get a total of around probably 475 hp and torque. I could also
go
another route and just buy a Vortech supercharger, and that’d work too.
The
thing about working with big blocks is that although you can make massive
amounts of power and torque with them, parts are fewer and generally more
expensive. You want an engine that’s easy to work with, has literally
thousands of parts available, and has every single part and option
detailed----- Original Message -----
From: Nuclear653@aol.com
and has had countless millions before you work on it, small block Chevy is
the way to go. If you’re un a budget, this is especially true. I saw a
Popular Hot Rodding buildup of a 327 that made 450 hp for around $2,500 or
$3,000.
<< a garden variety used 454 could be treated to a routine
overhaul >>
That is very true. In fact, if you were to shop around you could probably
find a donor 454 out of a heavy-duty pickup relatively cheaply, and if it was
new enough you might even get fuel injection (but I wouldn’t count on it).
While the block may have many miles on it (as trucks generally do), it coul
be bought cheaply, especially if you pulled it out of a junkyard. Mind you,
this 454 would need a few components if you were to make a performance
engine. A big, lopey roller cam with steel pushrods, 1.6 rockers, tougher
springs, high-flow heads to match the cam, and an less restrictive intake.
All these things would run you a few thousand dollars, perhaps up to the
price of the crate 454/502s, but you’d be able to choose your own parts and
would probably end up with more power, and more importantly power that’s
taylored to your needs. A low axle ratio would definately be a good idea,
especially if you hooked it up to a 5 or 6-speed auto. I saw an episode of
Popular Hot Rodding TV, they matched a 502 with a 6-speed 4L60E tranny from
Jet specifically so that the first 3 gears would be great for drag races, but
it would still get something resembling mileage.
When creating power remember the following things: creating very high peak
power/torque isn’t as important as creating a high band of power/torque. This
is why I dislike Hondas (among other reasons). Another thing is to consider
where the engine will spend the most time. If you have a close ratio
transmission, that’ll probably be from around 1500 rpm under redlhe general
idea.
Enjoy, and if you make a Rat motor lumped Jag, make sure to post pictures!!
If one was in the mood for
some DIY work, a garden variety used 454 could be treated to a routine
overhaul and relatively cheaply built to a mild state of tune which would
be ideal for a 4200 pound XJ6 with a 2.88 axle,
Not necessarily advocating this or saying it would be my first choice in a
lumped Jag but it IS a possibility !
For pure “grunt” and cruising from a big I’d think about one of the 500 cu.
in. Cadillac engines. We had one in a pickup about ten years ago and it
would take anything we could attach it to on the ranch.
At about $2500 a 383 like I just put in my '84 Suburban certainly seems a
good bet for a high torque low RPM carbed Lump small block.