My list of projects that I want accomplish over the winter has grown, except for a set of tasks involving the rear axle of the car. I want to rebuilt the rear calipers, replace the brake pads, replace and adjust the handbrake and pads, and potentially replace all four rear shocks.
While I have not yet jacked up the rear of the car, I have looked under it as best I can and after I gasped at how inaccessible everything looks, I initially added these tasks to the list of tasks for a real mechanic with a lift. But like everything else I’ve undertaken on this car and others, I begin to question if this is something I can do with a bit of education and encouragement.
So here is the big question. Are these tasks ones that I can undertake with out a lift. I have most all other tools, but a lift is the one thing I can’t fit in my garage. Is it reasonable to undertake any of these with that limitation?
PS. In looking at the rear shocks, I see that three of the four bolts on each side are easily handled, but the top rear bolt on the back shock looks to be a pain in the buttocks. Any suggestions?
I’d guess most of us have removed the rear suspension cage, which enclosed everything you’ve mentioned with a floor jack and jack stands. There are many prior threads on how to do it and it’s not really all that hard. Once you have it out from under the car it’s not that difficult to do what’s on your list, especially with the helpful advice you will be offered…
Plug the below phrase into the search function and you will be rewarded with multiple threads discussing how to do it.
EDIT: You won’t need to put #e-type in bold letters. For some reason the system did that to my post. See, it did it again. I guess the hash mark is the bold trigger.
Age and fitness come to mind. I don’t have a lift but at 65 I’ve recently replaced a clutch on my etype. Rolling around on the floor is a lot more painful than it used to be, but I guess that’s why they make single malt whisky
I removed the cage from my ‘65 ‘S’ type in my garage, with an earthen floor using just axle stands, I pulled the cage out sideways, can’t remember how I replaced it as it was 30+ years ago but I managed it
I pulled and replaced the one on my car with jackstands and a floor jack just before I turned 70 last August. Then I bought a two post lift. I guess I need to work on my tool acquisition timing.
Several follow-up question. How high did you have to lift the car to drop the IRS? What two post lift did you buy? Is it permanently mounted or is it one of the movable types?
You don’t really need a lift, just reasonably high stands. You can lower the unit to the ground on a slim racing jack with a piece of good plywood to distribute the load. Once down you’ll see how far the car needs to go up to trundle it out. Give the upturned tail, it doesn’t need to go as high as you might imagine, much less high than for engine removal.
A reasonably inexpensive purchase you might consider is buying a transmission jack. Here is one very similar to the one I own. I feel it gives you a more stable platform than trying to balance the thing on a floor jack. Mine can be raised and lowered with a 1/2" drive rachet wrench extension. Even sweeter if you use an impact wrench.
Regarding lifts, there are multiple threads already discussing but I have a Bendpak mid rise scissors lift which works well with an 8 foot ceiling height. But I think you could do the rear end with just the jack stands and jack.
I don’t like being on a concrete floor either. I bought a closed cell foam pad that I lay on the floor when needed. I got it from one of the industrial supply houses like Zoro.
That is the jack I used. I bolted a piece of plywood to the top to create a larger platform and used a couple of C-clamps to secure the tie plate to the plywood.
While you’re at Harbor Freight getting that jack, they also have a 2’x6’ closed cell floor pad like Harvey mentions.
Note that I raised the car much more than necessary (it was my first time) and also that I raised the front as well (also possibly unnecessary but I liked the look).
I would suggest that if you go through all the work of dropping the rear end, that you send the differential out for a checkover and new oil seals.
The worst nightmare (well not as bad as having to drop the engine) would be to spring a differential leak and wish you had done the differential when you did the rear brakes!
I’ll be at Harbor Freight this weekend acquiring my latest tool (this jack). I usually spread a HF moving blanket on the floor for the same reason of not laying on the cold concrete, at 65 laying on the floor isn’t so much fun, but getting up for the third time to get all the tools I need is even worse…LOL
I have a set of ten inch race ramps that I can put under the front tires, much like your 2 x 4 invention, but where did you place the jack stands in the rear given that you were removing the IRS? Did this cause any weight distribution problem once the IRS was out?
You’ve by now realised the job requires dropping the IRS. Good advice to research that aspect of things thoroughly - detaching the fronts of the radius arms can be a struggle and it helps if you lock the e-brake to keep the nose from diving into the floor, see …
One thing you MUST do with extreme care and caution is replacing the shocks. You must use a suitable spring compressor, otherwise risk injury.
Edit. The jacks in the rear are positioned near the ends of the two longitudinal members, just under the rear bulkhead.
Bob: Note Geo’s picture. Once you get the rear end assy. secured on the jack you can roll it out the side, through the wheel well. Doing it that way means you don’t have to jack up the rear of the car nearly as high as you would if you pulled it out under the boot floor.
And while you are blowing money at Harbor Freight you might check out their padded creeper. I bought one and am quite pleased with it.
My buddy and both love Harbor Freight. I buy most but not all of my tools there. We call it the Tool Porn Store. My Dad was a Craftsman fan and I agree that their tools are/were top notch, just like Matco and SnapOn, but for my purposes, since I am not a professional mechanic, their stuff serves me well.
I have those too, so far so good. This project is at least a month or more out, given the current state of the car. But that gives me time to learn and plan.
I’m not a huge fan of spring compression, but I have a set of spring/strut compressors with safety catches to hold onto the spring. I’ve compressed and replaced more Jeep springs than I can count. But the Jag springs look super small by comparison and I’m already wondering how much they need to be compressed to be mounted on the shock body.
