Mark 2 brake booster

I am replacing the power brake booster on my 1962 Mark 2. The replacement unit I obtained from SNG Barratt is similar, but not exactly the same as the one I removed. It is slightly shorter, and the studs on the base of the unit are more central, where the original one has peripheral studs which go through the cover in the right wheel well and bolt to it. Has anyone had experience fitting one of these newer units to their car? I think I can fit the hydraulic lines and vacuum line without major trouble, but want the unit to be secure. I guess drilling new holes in the wheel well cover to accomodate the more central studs is an option. Apparently, the original unit is no longer easily available, and rebuilding one will cost about 3 times as much as the newer unit costs to purchase outright.
Steve Bruce

Yes, you need to drill new holes in the cover, clocked to get the slave cyl upright again, and close up the originals.

It’s often a bother to get the cover out, as it’s usually got a couple of generations of undercoat on it, and sometimes even welded in (that’s a pain).

On some boosters the end of the slave cyl comes up too short for the support clamp so you have to move the holes for that too.

Hi Steven I recently did exactly this job. The booster uses the existing brake lines however I found I had to twist the booster though about 60 deg to original position and locate a couple of inches further into engine bay, make sure yoy have clearance between cooling fan and booster body. I fabricated a simple bracket to remount the front. I still could fit the original under guard cover over the booster Refer to attached images. Best of luck.

Here’s a photo of what not to do…! A previous owner hacked the inner wing and cowl to make way for the vacuum hose. This took a bit of work to straighten out (pun intended). The replacement booster works very well but In the end, I located, rebuilt and installed an original Lockheed unit as originality was important for this project

Good luck with your installation!

Brian

I replaced my booster with a replacement from SNG five or six years ago. I do remember my mechanic saying he had to make some ‘modifications’ as the replacement unit is a different size. The upside, though is the replacement booster gives 30% more ‘boost’, a trade I am able to live with

Thanks Andrew! Luckily, the cover came off easily. I just need to line up drill holes accurately now. It is rather awkward spot to work in. . . .

Steve Bruce

Thanks Russell! I like your idea of a new bracket, and your pictures really help see what you’ve done.

Steve Bruce

Make a cardboard template to sit in the outboard flanged end of the cover, fit the old servo. Now sight along the old servo and mark a vertical (where the hydr. fittings point) on your cardboard.

Put the template on your bench, set the new servo on it and center. Now turn your new servo until the ports line up with the vertical on the template. Double check that the new servo is still centered, then mark the new holes.

Thanks Brian! Great pictures. I like the look of picture #2. It sure is easier with the engine and radiator out.

Steve Bruce

I rechecked booster, I only rotated about 30deg. You need to do
this so booster valve clears inner guard.

Its pretty tight but can be done.

Russell