Mark 2 Screenjet Wiring and Carb Feed Pipe Questions

I’m trying to make progress on a long term restoration of my '61 3.8L MOD Mark 2, positive ground, and I have some questions that I hope forum members can help with.

First, my car did not have a washer motor/bottle when acquired. About a year ago I bought a new Lucas 2SJ Screenjet Electric Washer Bottle Assembly (C17004) from SNG. The washer motor has only 2 terminals, labeled (+) and (-). I have done some fairly extensive searching here, as well as other Jaguar-related sites and the general Internet. I cannot find a straightforward answer as to how to wire the new unit with a standard loom. I know the original screenjet required 3 wires, and the reasons why (delay function). I know that the loom has a black ground wire, which will not be used. The loom also has a green wire coming from the fuse block, and a light green/black that goes to the grounded switch at the center dash. Next to the terminals, the motor casing has a reminder to “maintain polarity”. Given that my car is positive ground, and the light green/black wire goes to the grounded switch, I’m guessing that the light green/black should be connected to (+), and the green to (-). Am I correct? I can test it both ways, of course, but don’t want to fill the bottle with water at this time.

Second, my carburetor feed pipe (fairly long metal pipe with a ‘T’ that connects with banjo fittings to the float bowls) is pretty bent up, especially on the shorter side towards the front carb. I’ve been trying to gently “correct” the pipe using heat and a pipe bender, but am concerned about kinking, etc. New pipes from SNG are about $180. The Auxiliary Enrichment Carb (AEC) feeds fuel into the bottom of the intake through lines made of a combination of metal and rubber fuel hose sections. Has anyone tried using rubber fuel hose sections to salvage a compromised carb feed pipe? Using rubber fuel hose section(s) on that pipe can’t be any worse heat-wise than the pipe and hose line under the intake and closer to the block. In my case, I would probably leave the long side toward the back carb alone and substitute a hose section that is only about 4 inches long on the side toward the front carb.

Thanks in advance

I believe you are correct, LGB goes to switch which is earth ( pos). I don’t know what the black earth wire is for, but I don’t believe there is a delay function on Mk2’s, just a single speed. non-locking switch.
Re the fuel line, it can be, and has been done, just make sure you use fuel resistant line (obviously).

Eric, you will have a positive wire that goes to the + terminal of the battery. That goes to the + of the motor.

The other wire that ends up at the - terminal goes to the - terminal of the motor.

If you have positive ground through the switch, the + cable from there must go to the + at the motor.
If you mess it up, the motor doesn’t fill up the bottle in reverse, instead it probably eats the impeller if it’s the rubber type.

The black wire keeps the motor running when the manual switch is released and it shuts itself off internally after the delay.

Rubber is fine in a pinch should you destroy the pipe in your efforts.

Kevin, David;
Thank you both for your replies.