Might be a silly question but is there a trick to getting this piece of the leaf spring? Its spring loaded so its tough to just muscle it apart.
Hello Austin - 1) remove the bolt - may take heat and force to remove nut, then drive bolt through; 2) shackle stirrup will now be removable from bushing at end of leaf spring; 3) install new bushing, with sleeve, with new bolt, in to shackle stirrup, at frame mounting location - make sure nut end of bolt is not next to frame; 4) tighten bolt before lifting spring end to mate with shackle stirrup; 5) install leaf spring bolt, with nut end away from frame, in lower part of shackle stirrup and tighten - Tex Terry, II - 1991 XJS V12 Classic Coupe, 1986 XJS V12 Coupe - sent 7/10/2020 2008hrs. EDT USA
Thanks Tex,
I wasnt sure if there was a trick, like a split pin that i couldnt see, but Im gonna guess that its just super stuck. I was hoping not to use heat since i dont have a torch. Oh well haha
Hello Austin - since no access to heat source, spray soak with rust penetrant for a few days, then make attempts at removing the bolt nut - will take time but can be done - Tex Terry, II 1991 XJS V12 Classic Coupe, 1986 XJS V12 Coupe - sent 7/10/2020 2106hrs. EDT USA.
Austin,
I recently successfully removed three stripped studs from the exhaust manifolds of my 1957 MK VIII, much to my amazement. They were stuck pretty good since this car hasn’t been on the road since 1975, so I knew I had my work cut out for me as they were very rusty and would not budge. I first soaked the studs for about a week with Kroil, after hitting the studs sharply with a hammer a few times, and I also applied heat with my propane torch a few times. Then I put a pair of my best vice grips on the studs and one by one I was able to get them to rotate just a little bit. I should mention that I put a 2 foot long steel pipe on the end of my vice grips for leverage while the exhaust manifold was held in my bench vice. Once the studs started to rotate I continued to soak them with Kroil as I alternated between tightening and loosening them. Each time they rotated a bit more until I removed all three with the threads pretty much intact. There are four studs on each of the two exhaust manifolds for a total of eight studs. One stud was missing, and the other four had good threads on their ends. I will let those four “sleeping dogs lie” but clean up their threads before connecting the exhaust pipe nuts. I also chased the threads in the manifold with an appropriate tap and the three new replacement studs went in nicely.
Paul
Woof. That was a tough battle getting those bolts out. I got a torch to heat them up, only one came out with some serious persuading but the other I had to hack saw off. Also almost broke my table vice trying to press the bushings in haha.
I finally got the rear end ready to slap it back in the car. But does anyone know the torque specs for the U-bolts and the leaf spring eye bolts? Also, when I originally took the rear end out, the shackles at the rear were facing up. Is that normal? I cant seem to find a diagram on the good ol google.
Thank you for all the help so far
doesnt say in the MKVII manual
however, for a Jeep Cherokee XJ, which I have just done, and has a similar setup
U-bolts 52ftlb, lower shackle bolts 80ftlb, upper shackle bolts 109ftlb